Hello,
I've just started a full restoration on a 69' z28 with 47,000 original miles. All numbers match and it has an unusual color combination. It is hugger orange with yellow interior. The tag on the cowl verifies the color. I and the owner wanted to make sure it's documented as complete as possible. I was wondering if you guys have any tips or areas that might contain some hidden paperwork. Kinda like my 64' vette had the paperwork hidden on top of the fuel tank. I'll be taking plenty of pics of documentation but I was curious if I should know anything else that I should preserve. It also has a fuel gage where the clock belongs on other cars. Several people have commented on this location but the owner has owned the car since the early 80's and has never driven the car. Thanks for any help and this looks like a great site. Thanks, Brad

Orange/Yellow??? Never seen or heard of one.

Welcome to Team Camaro Brad!

What there is to document depends on where the car was built. The best way to start out here would be to post the numbers off the trim tag. Then, if it is a Norwood car we can steer you to particulars for that plant; if an LA car, there's different things, including the possibility of a Broadcast Sheet on top of the tank like your Vette.

The center fuel gauge is part of RPO U16, where the tach was installed in place of the fuel gauge, so the fuel gauge moved to the center; CRG shows only 1,410 69s so equipped. RPO U17 is what most folks are probably used to seeing, a tach with the console gauges, including a fuel gauge; CRG shows 29,524 69s with U17.

Sounds like a pretty unique car, and we'd love to hear more.

If you do have a LOS built car and decide to remove the tank, be careful. I removed mine and my build sheet was stuck to the anti-squeak strip that GM put on the tank. This is what I finally ended up with...

Interesting car. We've only come across one Orange/Yellow car. They aren't "supposed" to exist, but never say never. Would be interested in a pic of the trim tag.

If you dont know how to post pics here, you can email me and I can post it for you. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the information. Already know alot more than I did before. I will take a pic of the tag and try to post it. The body is really rough. In fact, I feel that by the time I replace all the metal I will be at the cost of buying a new body. What are your guys thoughts on that? It needs floors,rockers,quarters,trunk,frame rails,doors. Seems like the cowl and hood are the only real decent pieces. The owner purchased it locally in the early 80's and parked it and never did anything with it. Still has the lockout shifter in it. It's complete and I believe it to be a 47k mile car since the brake/gas pedal and upholstery don't show the wear of a high mileage car. Thanks again and I'll try to get some pics on.

I would restore the original chassis . The other way may be easier.. but if the guy is not in a hurry I would take the high road:)

Have you worked much with the overseas sheetmetal for 1st gens? There's plenty of info here on how various panels fit and don't fit. I wonder about how well they fit when you put all repro stuff together. I haven't seen a new coupe body yet, but I have seen the verts and read some horror stories about fit and quality. To me the vert looked okay, but you can spot it as new body.

To me, I wouldn't even consider rebodying a low mile 69 Z, losing the partial VIN stamps in the process. It will always bring into question the authenticity of the car. Even "little" things, like putting in a repro dash top panel can cause questions, because the hole for the VIN is shaped different than the original.

With the way the market is, an original 69 Z with low miles should get NOS metal where available, and use good repro or good donor metal where NOS isn't available.

Spring for the GM body panels, and document that they are GM ones. It will cost you alot more in sheetmetal, save you some in bodywork, and most importantly be worth more when you are done. Of course, that's just me.

Brad,

What did you have on the tank of your 64 Vette?

I haven't worked with any first gen sheetmetal. I've read all of the stories on it and have seen the fit issues when my local body shop did a conv. Gaps just aren't as crisp as this original car. They were to the point that I could have fixed them all though. I'd rather us nos pieces on the car if possible. How about floor pans and trunk in aftermarket? Are they detectable is installed properly? How available is gm sheetmetal? Should a z28 have rear disc brakes or was that an option? Sorry for all the questions and I appreciated the help so far.

Lawrence: My 64' was supposed to have the build sheet stuck to the top of the tank. Unfortunately it was an abused car and it wasn't there.

Rear disc brakes was a rare option, JL-8, and the JL-8 rear axle was also available "over the counter". Not having JL-8 would be the norm for a 69Z.

The aftermarket floors and trunk pans are pretty decent. If you used the aftermarket full floor (have to take off the braces under the back seat that are found in verts but not coupes) and the aftermarket full trunk floor (again, have two extra plates in the rear, underneath, used to secure the cocktail shakers on a vert, but not needed for coupe), I can't think of any seams you'd have that would not look factory. It's just a lot of work and bracing to do.

I have never seen NOS floor pans. If an NOS battery tray sells for $100+, imagine what a floor pan would sell for.

When you pick out floor pans, make sure they are punched for the floor drains. If you use the ones with the plug stamped into the floor, it is very obvious from underneath.

You can still find the NOS fenders, quarters, etc....just almost impossible to find cheap. Cowl vent panels, and cowl hoods are still available from GM

Lawrence: My 64' was supposed to have the build sheet stuck to the top of the tank. Unfortunately it was an abused car and it wasn't there.

Corvettes didn't have the build sheet glued to the top of the fuel tank until the 1967 model year. :thumbsup: