Ok I'm about to undergo the task of painting the '69 in June by myself. I've got access to a downdraft paint booth at a buddies work. Some questions though, I want this thing to turn out perfect and last many many years. right now it is Red/white Z stripes. I am doing a color change because I hate red. I'm not sure on a color yet but plan to look at house of kolors stuff. they have some unique stuff. has anyone used there paint systems? are they good? and are they good for a first time sprayer?

another thing... how hard is it to take the rear and front windshield out so i can get in those channels. i want to rid/stop any rust from spreading or starting. i plan to chemically strip it to the bare metal. and use an etching primer. what body panels should I remove to paint the car and does anyone have any painting tips in general? (i.e. paint the doors/hood/trunk off the car with primer, then bolt them on and spray color? or tips on masking)

thanks, i want to do this right.
-Roger

------------------
'69 SS, 355 TPI, T-72 Garrett Turbo, ported twisted wedge allum. heads, .494/.494 cam, 9" rear 3.89 gears, 700r4, Accel DFI, hooker exaust

Roger, I hope you mean June 2003 or even 2004. You have laid out a HUGE project. What you are after would require a book to answer. Every one of them has been covered here on the forums, start with one and do a search.

Lets start with a few from this end.
1. Is the car apart right now?
2. What do you know about the cars history? In other words, what condition of the body UNDER the paint?


------------------
Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

Rogleete - you have mail.

Yes I do mean Juned 2002 as in next month. I do know a lot about the history. the car was originally olympic gold. and has new sheet metal from the firewall to the front and the rear quarters and trunk lid. so its not a complete rust bucket. it has minor rust hole on the bottom of each door towards the front. no rust on the roof and only other spot is by the rear window at the bottom corner. i am about to start taking trim off. and i do have a book on painting but its not for "show quality"

Windows are not a problem but you will need a friend to assist. Pull the trim clips paralell to the trim to get them to release. Try to get the tool for this or use a screwdriver in a pinch. Do this for all the trim except the base of the windshield. Remove the interior windlacing and pillar post pads. Remove the wiper arms and the panel they attach to. Remove the chrome trim from the base of the windshield. Remove anything else I forgot about.

Use a piece of wire or cable to cut through the black goo that seals the windshield to the car. You may need something sharp and pointy to get it through to the other side. I like to wrap the wire around something to use as a handle. Here is the fun part. You and your friend will play "I got it, you got it" with the wire pulling back and forth while dragging the wire through the black goop. It will cut through the goop and release the glass from the car. Work your way around the perimeter and be careful not to damage the glass as you go. Do not press of force the glass as it will break. http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

If you get both front and back glass out and you only have 2 pieces, congratulations! If you have more than 2 pieces then this posting is for entertainment value only and should not be attempted by anyone at home so don't hold me responsible http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

Good luck.

-Mark.

Hello Roger,
Painting a car yourself is some of the most fun you will ever have. I painted my car a 1968 Camaro. It took me alittle more than two years, but i didnt work on it every day. Belive me you will want to take some breaks also. I changed the color of mine so i gutted the car and striped everything off it. Then i striped it down to the bare metal. That process alone is hard. I used both a DA sander and chemicals. It is not hard to take out the glass in the car but you should have somebody help you. And besure not to pri to hard on it it will pop the glass. Some glass companys will come out and take it out for you if you want to do that, doesnt cost much. But some more good advise i can give dont cut corners on the primer. Use a good building primer like ppg K36 or some like that. And pay close attention to the edges. Those are some of the fist places that chip and cause you paint to flake. but i hope you have fun i know i did.
Brian.

I wanted to touch on this subject again if you don't mind.

If you have read my posts here you know that I am a BIG advocate for the do it yourselfer. I give a lot of support for the guy doing things for the first time and will even walk guys through it in private emails when I have the time.

The reason I gave a pessimistic response to the original post is this: There is nothing sadder than a nice drivable car being torn down in a furry of energy and excitement only to get overwhelmed and get burned out.

This is a HUGE, HUGE job, as Brian said, it can be fun. BUT, he had fun while it took him TWO YEARS, not a month. I did a record speed job on my '68 Rally Sport. It was in bare metal with all the trim off, a very straight body, and the front and back glass out. I worked dang near FULL time on it. I had my own shop with all the tools and supplies within my reach. While my employees made the money, I did my car. It took me 17 days to get it done. That was FULL time. I didn't add up the hours but since then have on many similar jobs. The typical cosmetic restoration takes about 150 hours of work, this is 150 professional hours. I can cut a quarter off and have it replaced and in the paint department in one 8 hour day. So things come pretty fast to me. Still, these jobs take 150 hours.

I have learned that the usual home hobbyist will spend three to four hours to do an hour of a professionals work. That is on the conservative side. At that rate, it would take 450 to 600 hours to get the job done. So, if you worked 10 hours a day you are looking at a month and a half to two months, seven days a week!

I know many of you will tell me that it didn't take you that long, I don't disagree, it can be done. But it is highly unlikely that this type of job can get done in a garage by a hobbyist in four weeks. I am just being a realist and give some much learned advice, don't set your self up for a big fall. Take it one step at a time and have fun.

------------------
Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

good advice martinsr, especially about good plans gone bad and never getting finished

I agree with the last post. Especially if you are changing colors. I did a '72 GMC in my garage, but it took over a year of part time work and NO major body problems. The old axiom if you "want a paint job real bad, you'll get a real bad paint job!" Take your time and do it right. Even then for us amateurs you'll find things you wished you had done better. What ever you decide - Good luck and have fun.

You know nothing in this world gives you better satification in a job well done. I dont know if painting a body work came natural to me, but i have done a hell of a job painting my 68 camaro. At the local cruse-ins people come to my car a cant get over my paint. They always as who painted it, I smile a respond "I did." The feeling you get is unexplainable. Im not saying it perfect, i know it has flows, but no paint job is perfect. The money you save is well saved and you can spent it in other places.

CamaroJSU, I can't agree with you more. That is why try to help guys trying to do just that. It is VERY rewarding to do any "art" your self. I feel the same way when I look at photos I have taken, cars I have painted or even my little boy hitting the ball off the "T".

I support it, just keep your sights realistic, that is all I am saying.

------------------
Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick