68 Camaro upper Control Arm bushing removal [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: 68 Camaro upper Control Arm bushing removal

Oct 3rd, 06, 07:04 AM
How do you remove the upper control arm bushings? The shaft is still in the control arm. I have removed the lower control arm bushings with my ball joint press but cannot figure out how to remove the uppers. Ideas?:clonk:

Oct 3rd, 06, 08:14 AM
With the arm removed from the car, clamp a bench mounted vice onto the shaft in the center so that the arm can move independantly of the shaft.

Now take your air chisel with a flat blade installed. Put the blade against the shoulder of the bushing, lean into the air chisel and hit the trigger. This will drive the bushing off the end of the shaft. Once the bushing starts to move, you won't have to put much pressure on the air chisel. Be careful that you don't dig into the shaft itself. Once you have both bushings off, you can remove the shaft from the arm. I would highly recommend that you wire wheel both ends of the shaft where the bushings ride, and the threaded portion of both shafts before reassembly.

Lube/grease very well upon reassembly of the new bushings. You need to have some type of support between the 2 ends of the arm so that they don't collapse or bend while you are pressing in the new bushings. You also should fashion some type of support to go between the 2 blades at either end of the arm. I find you can grind bolts down to fit between the blades and then tap them in with a hammer in at least 2 places around the diameter of the hole, and preferably 3 places.

I find that the aftermarket bushings are larger in O/D than the factory bushings and are sometimes difficult to get started straight in the hole. If you do get them started straight, the arm will try to bend instead of the bushing going in. For this reason, I take a dremel tool and grind on the shoulder of the bushing just enough to allow the bushing to start in easier.. This way I can insure that the bushing starts in straight, and I am less likely to bend the arm this way. If you look carefully at the new bushings you will see the shoulder on the bushing that needs to be "touched" with the grinder.

It also helps to lightly sand the hole in the arm where the new bushing will go with 200-220 grit paper. This gets all of the old gunk off, and burrs, and will aid in starting the new bushing in.

Though I mentioned it already-you can't possibly put too much grease on the bushings. If you think you have enough-you are wrong! Put more on it!

Oct 3rd, 06, 09:23 PM
He, He!!

Just get a big card-board box that you can fold over and sit on the floor and have at it with a trusty air chisel!!

I used 1/2" Al-Thread and a bunch of washers and a couple of nuts along with a 2x2 piece of wood as a shim to fit between the "U" to keep it form calapsing as well as a couple of short sockets that I put in the roll to keep from calapsing them too!!

You will see just what I mean when you get into it.

All I got out of it was $80 dollars still in my pocket and a couple of blisters on the palm of my hands!!

EASY, but took like 2.5 to 3 hours!! Well worth the $80 bucks not spent to me