i have a standard bore 4.00" 350 block casting number: 10054727 the dek pad is marked: kO822tpa the crank is a cast 305/350 casting number: 14088585 the block has has a "23" marked by the oil filter boss. what did this block come out of a truck maybe? and many people say that canadian blocks are stronger because it is colder in canada and they have to cast it hotter is this true? is there anything bad or good about this canadian block. mortec says: chev 350 86&up, 1 piece rear main seal:

thanks in advance.

... and many people say that canadian blocks are stronger because it is colder in canada and they have to cast it hotter is this true?

thanks in advance.

Uhmmmmm - No - or they must be fellow Canucks ...
Remember, it gets pretty cold in Tonawanda and Flint also ;)
Maybe them "Hucho en Mexico" are to be suspect though, it's pretty hot in that are of the globe ... :D

Block # 10054727 = 1986 ~ early 90's 4.00" bore "350" block, One piece seal, one of several of the last Gen 1 series designs. McKinnon (K) blocks may have "Made in Canada" cast in them.

Suffix # K0822TPA;
K = McKinnon Industries, Canada - GM of Canada manufacturing plant
08 = August
22 = 22th day of month
T = Truck engine assembly
PA = 1989 C10/1500~C20/2500

As far as to which blocks are best - it depends on the casting and the plant to some very small extent.
All small blocks are inverted cast, which has the effect of putting the most dense metal nearer the top of the block in the rind-land area to improve wear resistance.
Metalergy of a given casting series can be tailored somewhat to give certain characteristics to that casting - these blocks are clearly marked in the timing chain area and on the sides of some castings to identify them.

Actually, any of the blocks in given casting series can be considered just as good as the next in building a good HP engine, as long as the block itself exhibits all the characteristics of a "Good" casting. There should be a minimum of core shift, the valley area should be free of excess flash ridges and sand voids and the bottom end webs should all be properly cast and free of voids.
Most other items or characteristics are common in mass produced industrial castings and can be dealt with during normal performance engine build-ups.
I have usually found the Flint and McKinnon castings are pretty good and haven't had to reject one for a mild HP build yet. I have seen some fairly common items in Tonawanda blocks that makes me generaly pass on them for HP builds.
I have also had good results from several of those "bad" 'Mexico' blocks :thumbsup:
I don't think the're as bad as some of the early reports made them out to be. I know of quite a few 500+ HP builds on them and of not one block related failure.

In general, if any block fits your needs - then it's a good block ...

thanks for the info. also i have a 68 camaro with the original engine but how can i tell where it was made the casting pad dosnt say i dont think. it has the screw on the front near the waterpump under the intake i saw a thread here about if there was this then it was for sure made at that plant...

That would most likely be a Flint engine.

You may still be able to see the Suffix stamping on the pad in front of the passenger side head if you clean the area well. If not it may have been removed during a rebuild/resurfacing of the block.

Just having the casting number (drivers side rear of engine on housing flange) and the casting date (next to or on the other flange from the casting number) may get you close enough to at least know if it's anywhere close to your vehicles dates.
I.D.ing the actual state-of-tune and assembly plant can usually only be done with the original suffix stamping.

McKinnon blocks generally have a raised "K" in the area adjacent to the casting number. :thumbsup: