I have a 350 matted to a recently installed 2004R with a 2200 stall converter. The trans came with the wiring already installed inside for the lockup, and I installed the brake light switch for activation (or is it deactivation since I assume it should un lock when you apply the brakes). Anyway, it often does not seem to un-lock when you slow down, causing the car to lug. I either have to shift into third or come to a complete stop.

Is there something wrong here? What are all the possible problems? The one wire from the brake switch to the trans had accidentally touched the exhaust and melted through. I re-soldered the wire, could I have damaged any of the parts? The in-line fuse did blow so I'm assuming its ok.

I saw on one thread someone mentioning that it happens, but I would think that this should not happen.

Any help or suggestions on what to look for would be appreciated.

The converter will remain locked until it downshifts to third if you are using the internal switch. I use a latching relay on mine so it locks and unlocks when I want it to.

Ken - I had the same problem. Very annoying. There are many solutions - I'll mention three:

1. Keep the shift lever in 3rd when driving around town, and only shift into OD on the highway.

2. Install a toggle switch inline with your brake pedal un-lock system. This keeps the converter from locking until you flip the switch. Sounds like similar to what onova did, and it's what I did. It works great, and only cost me $3.

3. B&M makes a gizmo that hooks into your speedo cable, and will only allow lock-up at a particular speed. More automatic than a toggle switch, but for $160, I'll keep the switch.

Thanks for the suggestions, if there is nothing that can be done and it’s just the way it works then I guess I will keep going into third.

Does this happen since its not being controlled by a computer? What is the brake switch for? Shouldn’t the instant the switch is opened when the brakes are applied the converter should unlock?

Shouldn’t the instant the switch is opened when the brakes are applied the converter should unlock?

You are correct. Are you sure the switch is adjusted properly and wired properly. Test the switch as well to make sure it's good.

Couldn't tell from your post whether this is a stock brake light switch you are using. The stock switch won't work for this application. You need a brake switch that has a cruise control cutoff built-in. Thanks to BPOS, part number - GM# 25524848. Less than $10 from pep boys. One plug on the switch connects to your brake lights as normal...completing a circuit when the brakes are depress. The other socket is the one you wire your lockup wire through, which will break the 12V circuit when you depress the brakes.
-Scott

Scott, I have the correct brake switch from BTO, so either it's not working properly or I have something else wrong. I guess I need to do some test on it and see if maybe I fried it when the wire touched the exhaust and burnt through the wire. I assumed it was ok since it blew the fuse.

Rojo, I will check to see if its wired properly, but you also mentioned if the switch is adjusted properly, how do you adjust it?

As in where in makes contact with the pedel. If your brake lights are working it should be okay.

OK, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some type of adjustment on the plunger, making it travel more or less.

THANKS