Decent prices on crate motors with a 2 yr/20k warranty.

Anyone have experience or hear anything about them?

thanks

They build killer race motors, but I don't know anything about their street stuff.

If they are anything like what they race, you can expect lots of durable horsepower.

That too funny, I was just looking at the same engine.. Maybe we can get a volume discount. :)

That too funny, I was just looking at the same engine.. Maybe we can get a volume discount. :)

Would love to! Which one you looking at? I am considering either a large SB (427/434) or a 540. Also looking at T&L Engines and Shafiroff crate motors - similar prices, quality parts, and 1 or 2 year warranties on each....

I'm looking at the 383... Also looking at T&L Engines 383 Alum. head version. They seem to have the best bang for the buck. ($3,600) So many to choose from! Anyone have any experience dealing with T&L Engines?

I ran a thread asking about T&L recently too. Not much response there but they seem very similar to Bowers in that they are experienced race engine builders. T&L caters mostly to the NASCAR people as you could probably tell but they both look like great value and use high quality parts.

Their website doesn't have too many details and variations on the crate motors, but they are on ebay and racingjunk.com with more details actually.

Yea, I've looked at quite a few companies on ebay and T&L seem to have the best quality product for the money.. I spoke with them a couple a days ago and he offered to complete and dyno my 383 with some of my parts I've already purchased if I wanted to ship them out to him.. (ie, dist. carb, wires etc) Which I thought was pretty cool. My only other decision is do I go with flat tappet or roller? Is it worth the extra $ for a roller setup?

Yeah that is convenient I guess... of course it's peanuts compared to what you will pay them for everything else.

Roller is really the only way to go. I think everyone you ask will agree. The question is do you wanna go solid or hydraulic roller. I will be going hydraulic because i don't wanna have to adjust valves ever. You will gain some more power with the solid but you will have to watch the valves and adjust them regularly. Its a trade-off, and to each his own.

I bought an engine from T&L: great guys, great service. The only drawback I can think of was I had to wait 19 weeks to get my engine. If you don't mind waiting that long (parking your car during the winter), then go for it. I personally have more time than money. They even bolted on my carb, distributor, alternator, flywheel, and power steering pump that I mailed to them. You can call them up anytime after the sale for any kind of tech questions.

I would definitely upgrade to the roller cam (around $400 if I remember correctly) and I would get the 7-quart racing oilpan. I was told the bigger oilpan keeps the engine temp more stable. I did a bunch of more upgrades, but they were mostly cosmetic.

My 383 roller dyno'd (at sea level) at 449 hp/472 torque. Email me if you have any more questions.

Thanks Bry your info is very helpful, I don't mind the wait.. When I called he said I would be looking at about 4 to 6 weeks but we all know thats like 4 to 6 months.. :) Do you have any vacuum or idle issues with this engine? Just want to make sure I don't buy too much engine for the street.

One other ?, any fitment issues with the 7 quart oil pan?

Thanks, Joe

Yeah, they told me the same thing (5 to 6 weeks). No issues with idle or vacuum whatsoever. I did have issues with a power steering bracket (that I supplied). You should run great right around sea-level; I'm at about 5200 feet. I have another issue with it being under-carbed. I have an Edelbrock 600cfm that they dyno'd for me at 25 horsepower less than their carburetor. I need to eventually get a 750 or 800cfm carb to get that full 449hp.

Something else I thought of too: I found some Proform aluminum valve covers that I liked, but Proform said they wouldn't fit 1.6 roller rockers. T&L machined them down for me to fit (for free). I also had issues finding ANY kind of dipstick that would fit at all (on the passenger side) since it didn't come with one. I eventually bought the GM ZZ crate engine dipstick and tube from my local Chevy dealer and it works great.

Here's my dyno sheet also.

http://bry.us/383dyno.gif

Awesome, thanks again! :)

Oh, I thought of something else. I told them what kind of streetability (if that's a word) that I was looking for. I told them I wanted low end torque for a street machine. They matched the cam accordingly. You can pick whatever you want.

Bry, thanks for chiming in. Sounds like a good experience overall.

I was just going to say you must have a relatively mild cam since peak hp is only at 5400pm.... do you know the specs on that cam? There must be 50+ more hp potential in that motor with a more aggressive that peaks around 6000rpm.

Sounds like a great street engine for you..... mind telling us the price? And how long ago did you receive it?

thanks again

Something else to chew on.. Anyone use or care to comment on the Edlebrock power package? They claim 460hp (383).

Here are the cam specs (Comp Cams):
Grind Number CS XR276HR-10
Intake Exhaust
Gross Valve Lift 0.502/0.510
Duration At 0.05: 224/230
Lobe Lift: 0.335/0.34
Lobe Separation: 110

I paid extra for the roller cam, Champ 7-quart racing oil pan, fuel pump, water pump, March serpentine conversion system, polished Edelbrock Air Gap manifold, and Proform polished aluminum valve covers. Total was just under $5000 shipped. Once they did ship it (on a Friday) I got it Monday.

I ordered it 11/28/05, received it 4/3/06. On the bright side, I didn't have to pay the full amount until it shipped (only a deposit).

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77036&highlight=t%26l+engines

I will be ordering my 383 this week from T&L. :) I've been working with Ray for about a week now and there customer service is better than I've ever seen!

Joe