I am looking at a set of sbc heads for my 327, they have had a valve job, 4 new vavles put in, new guides and they have been hot tanked and maged. He said he had them milled to .003. What will this do? I was told it will raise the comp. but by how much? I need to be able to use pump gas with these heads. The casting number for the heads is 3782416. I can get the heads for $375. Is this a good deal or should i pass and wait for differnt heads?

Hi There,

I know that you meant 3782461 for a casting # off the heads. They are 62cc heads that were the best Chevy had at the time. They are still ok if you wanted to keep the look the same and bump up performance.

With all the work they did to them, did they mention hardened exhaust seats? They are needed with unleaded fuel. As for the milling, .003-inch is the max gap across the head surface when measured against a straight edge. Any more than this and the head MAY not seal right. According to Chevy High Performance ( Current issue) " Tip: taking .006-inch off the head surface decreases the chamber volume by 1cc. This means you should find out how much came off and if it will bump up your compression too much.

This is the link to the Current article:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0612ch_head_build/


There are much better alternatives out there for the 327. I looked at all of them for my 383 I did and went with the Edelbrock performer RPM because they "fit" what I wanted to do. I didn't need a High HP motor but something with more grunt. I like them and I sold my 041's for $250.

For more choices on heads, this article proved very helpful. Look at the smaller / cheaper heads, they will fit your bill.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0606ch_cylinder_head_performance_test/

Good Luck
Timo

There will be no significant difference. The only thing the .003" will do is make the surface straighter.

When I had my 400 machined, I had them take .014" off the deck. That brought my quench down to .045" with the gasket. That improves the quench. Milling the heads will not improve quench.

Unfortunatley i didnt win the heads,they were too much money. They went for $345.
I was thinking these heads maybe would be a good choice? I

I am wondering if these are a good set of heads for a 327 build? Would i be able to run pump gas with these heads? Also, what kind of Cr am i looking at?
Im trying to find a set of heads to help me get 325hp. I dont care if they are new or old. So long as they will be reliable and work well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260040037935
another question, this guy had the heads become larger cc ports, whats the point of that??
Also just to make sure, they will fit on my 68 327 right?

And is there a plus to 2.02 vavles opposed to the 1.94? Will this increase my hp?

just to clarify, i really cant afford new heads because i need to keep this build under $2000. The heads are the most expensive part so saving some money or getting some high Hp would be a plus so i can keep other costs down.

http://www.greenwoodchevy.com/engine14.htm

i am already decided on the idea that i want to rebuild this 327. It will be cheaper than buying an other New engine with the same Hp.

Is there any other way to mount a power steerting pump without having acc. holes?? I think this is the main reason people tell me not to get them, or maybe not??

power steering pumps mount low and don't normally need the accessory holes. Pass side alternators / long water pump systems have to have them.

Driver side alt / short pump systems don't have to but can.

What kind of car are you putting this in anyway?
maybe fill out your profile a bit, then we won't have to try to remember.

sorry, i am building a 64 malibu. The way my alternator is right now, i dont need acc holes, it mounts high mayber higher than the heads. As far as power steering i just want to be able to do it in the future but it isnt something i am going to be doing right away.

I passed up two sets of heads tonight that i probably should have bid on. Basically, for $350-$375 what kind of heads am i going to be able to get. This is the question i have been asking myself but i cant figure it out. :clonk: It would seem like for that price i can only get double hump's but for $350 i can get a pretty good set.

Is there other heads in the price range? And if not, what kind of Double hump should i be looking for. I am buying my heads as the first part of my project. As soon as i get heads i am going to have my block bored and then i will be able to put some new pistons in to give me the right CR i want.
I have posted many times on chevelles but you guys seem to be more help when it comes to my 327 build.

as much money as it takes to have some doubble hump heads, blasted, boiled, new guides, valves, miiling etc... you could buy some DART replacement heads that are based off the camel hump's and but flow better nad dont have 38+ years wear on them...

i am already decided on the idea that i want to rebuild this 327. It will be cheaper than buying an other New engine with the same Hp.


It would be way cheaper to build a 400 to get the same power. Same thing with a 350 just because parts are a dime a dozen.

Also, if you are going to try and make a 327 work, you will need a head with small combustion chambers. You will need to know all your engine specs so you can acurately measure everything and calculate your compression with various ccs. Shoot for at least 10:1 otherwise you will end up with a dog on the street. That is where the 400 comes in. With the same parts the 400 will idle smoother and be more responsive than the 327, and it will make way more power and torque.

Pop up pistons are a mistake. Don't do it that way. A lot of the oldschoolers will tell you otherwise, but they don't realize that a dome is an airflow restriction.

Finally, always put the money in the heads.

Do more research before you spend your money. You are getting to eager to spend,spend ,spend. You need to get a plan together otherwise you are going in circles.

If you want to make some decent power with room for improvement get aftermarket heads. The hell with camel humps. Let someone else put them on their car and end up with a slowmobile. Vortec heads are decent, but have no room for future improvement.

Don't end up like the old saying;

A fool and their money will soon part...

my advice is to save up alot of dough... i have a 350 short block and if i really really wanted to i could have it done in a day or two but im saving up all my dough for it to be a bullet proof 600 h.p. 383, also dont settle for second best, if the heads u want are 5,000 save up and get them when u have the dough other wise u would spend the money on somthing u dont want that wont make near as much power. y not build a 383? u got a 4.00" block all u need is a 400 crank and thats 57 extra cubes! aslo dont cheap out on LIFTERS or any valvetrane components or it wont be able to rev past 5,500

i am seeing now, that the heads is what will give me most of the Hp. Just out of curiousity, would it be worth spending $400 on my stock heads that i bought with the 327 to have them milled,ported,polished and have some other machine work done? They are just 1.72 vavles.

It looks like everyone agrees that the heads ( and cam ) are what dictates the performance and manners of your engine. I am sure no one will say it is a good idea to sink $400 into what everyone would consider weak heads. That is wasting money.

There are two companies out there that have "deals" on heads. Aerohead Racing has Large chamber heads for $400 and Darts for $625 with small chambers.

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/id7.html

Larry's Track Pro has some inexpensive heads as their monthly specials. $299
for 194 heads... It would be worth your time to shop a little .

http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/monthly.html

I almost forgot about Summit's COPY of the Fuelie heads that are inexpensive.
http://tinyurl.com/ygrobh

Timo

What 's the last three casting numbers on your heads?

pdq67

i am seeing now, that the heads is what will give me most of the Hp. Just out of curiousity, would it be worth spending $400 on my stock heads that i bought with the 327 to have them milled,ported,polished and have some other machine work done? They are just 1.72 vavles.
dont use thoes heads, as they were heads for the 210 h.p. 327 i think if u really want doubble humps get them with the 2.02's or 1.94's 1.72 is far too small and are a low hp huge chamber head at 75cc. aslo getting heads ported and polished isnt needed for the street the rough walls of the intake runners help mix the air and fuel togather, so unless ur running forced inducton and a car tha races alot i wouldnt waste money getting them ported and polsihed.

i am seeing now, that the heads is what will give me most of the Hp. Just out of curiousity, would it be worth spending $400 on my stock heads that i bought with the 327 to have them milled,ported,polished and have some other machine work done? They are just 1.72 vavles.

No, don't spend $400 on them. For around $100 more you could go aftermarket. There are deals out there. I got a friend of mine some Trick Flow heads off Craigslist with almost no miles for $450. I paid $300 for my Sportsman II heads. They only had around 4 to 5 thousand miles on them.

i dont remeber the numbers, but i know they wert 75cc chambers and 1.72 vavles.

Would these heads be any good?

http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/monthly.html

or these?

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/id7.html

i should also ask now, will i be needing headers? I mean i know i dont need them but should i get them. Will stock manifolds restrict flow or HP? If not i can spend the extra Money on better heads.. Just a thought.

you need a good flowing exhaust to support any kind of h.p., headers are an easy 25+ h.p. over manifolds, check out hedman hedders at summit racing, there coated and the best quality for the price. as for your heads, im not trying to be rude but the 75cc chamber small 1.72 valves are no good, i find it hard to see a car with 180 wheel h.p. with thoes heads.

the 64 cc 2.02's in the second link would do fine.

no offense taken, i am just trying to consider my options. I do want this build done somewhat soon but i dont want to rush buying under quality parts. Since i am seeing the heads are gonna give me the most hp, i am trying to find the best ones i can get. I would really like to spend no more than $400 but most of those heads are used for that price. The only reason i was thinking camel humps was because for $400 i can have all new parts in them shipped to my door ready to go.

What kind of heads can i find used on ebay in the $300-$400 price range?
thanks

u could get lucky and find some good ones, u should go to some swap meets, and also try craigslist.com i found a set of camelhump's 1.94" valves and small chambers for $150.00 ready to run at a swap meet!

can i run power steering, and A/c without the accesory holes on the heads? That was the major reason i was thinking about not getting Double humps. Also how much more Hp do i gain with 2.02 vavles vs 1.94? thanks

u can run power steering with doubble humps, my friend has the late style 2.02's on his 68' and runs power steering it doesnot bolt to the heads. 2.02's are not all that great for the street and mainly work well with a healthy cam and good compression there good for power on top. if i was doing a build with u i would put on some 1.94's a good cam a performer intake some headers and a 600-650 carb and call it a day. u need to match the heads to our cam and compression ratio.