I'm finally getting around to installing the TKO-600 conversion I purchased a while back.

Today I went to remove the convert flexplate and install the flywheel. While the flexplate came off easily, the flywheel was a very tight interference fit to the crank, such that I couldn't push it on or even tap it on with a rubber hammer. I effectively wound up using the flywheel bolts to pull it into the crank hub.

Is this normal? I've never installed a flywheel before, so don't know what's normal and what isn't.

Further, I decided to check the horizontal runout on the flywheel surface (how much it walks fore and aft at it outer edge through an engine rotation) and from my zero point, it through through -0.003 to + -0.010, or 13 thousands total runout. That doesn't seem like much, but the factory service manual doesn't list a spec for that. Anyone happen to know what's allowable?

My centerforce went on like that. Are you sure it's fully seated? I haven't seen a spec but that runout seems excessive. I never checked mine, though. I would call the flywheel mfg and ask. And please post back your findings. Thanks.

Did you clean the end of the crank real good before installing the flywheel? It would only take a tiny bit of crud or rust to give you that much runout...........


-

you need to pull it off of there. Clean the end of the crank real good and try it again. It's a tight fit, but it should go on with nuttin but hands, and once it's on, it should rotate easily on the end of the crank (unless there's a dowel of course!)

If you can't get it to fit right, or have more than maybe .003" runout, you'll need to have a machinist check it out.

It's a new engine (GM Crate) and a new flywheel, so it wasn't dirty, but I suppose a speck of debris is certainly possible.

In any event, the spec I found was 0.008" max, and I'm at 0.010". I got a read receipt but no answer from Keisler, but I imagine they'd tell me the same thing, that I have to fix the runout.

In case its a clue to anyone, its basically 0.10" high in the area where the dowel is.

But now the question is... since it was so hard to get on, how on earth do I get it off? I don't think I have a puller wide enough to span the flywheel bolts, or if that's even the right thing to do.

I tried heating it, but that made no difference.

Any advice on removing it?

yeah, for removal, just use a pry bar and work each side evenly.................................... Just be ready when it pops off.


-

Always a good idea to leave a bolt threaded part way in so it doesn't land on your face :-)

I wound up using a block of wood and a hammer to tap it off going around as I rotated it, and that worked.

I then cleaned the mating surfaces with a brass wire wheel. You could see where my previous installation had trapped something that even slightly brinneled the flywheel by one of the bolt holes. I think it was some crud left over, like a little blob of loctite, from the factory flexplate installation.

In any event, once cleaned up and reinstalled I have 0.000" runout! So I'm happy now... thanks for all the input!

Good thing I checked it with a dial indicator... I wonder if Midas Muffer would do that? :-) One tip for anyone who visits this thread later, you're better off bolting the dial indicator mount to the engine, like to a bellhousing bolt as I did in my case. If you just use a magnetic base to a header for example, it will move too much and you'll never get a valid reading.
One tip I'll thrw