I've now gone through my second Holley electric fuel pump. The motor has less than 100 miles on it. The pump is mounted in front of the rear differential at the lowest point possible against the underbody. I have a nice big fuel filter between the stock tank and the pump. Could it be that it is a gravity fed pump and it runs dry using the stock tank in its stock location?

Thanks,

Gary V.

Those pumps are cooled by the fuel, but you have to have flow for that to happen. Suggest you put in a bypass regulator and a return line, that will keep the fuel moving and the pump cool.

Any chance you have the power lead ON all the time, even with key off? I burned mine up by forgetting to disconnect the power to it when I had it as a temp pump on vacation.

JimM knows my fuel pump intimately too :)

Thanks, I suspect it is, indeed, a cooling issue. I'll do a search on configuring your suggested set up.

I don't think so. I have a toggle switch handling the power. Thank you for your thoughts.

I have a nice big fuel filter between the stock tank and the pump. Could it be that it is a gravity fed pump and it runs dry using the stock tank in its stock location?
Thanks,
Gary V.

Is the pump designed to overcome the resistance of the fuel filter?

what size wire supplying power, and are you running the power thru a relay and not directly thru the switch itself ?
low/reduced voltage will burn-up a hi load demand appliance.

Those pumps are cooled by the fuel, but you have to have flow for that to happen. Suggest you put in a bypass regulator and a return line, that will keep the fuel moving and the pump cool.
Will I need to weld in a return inlet?

You'll need to add one if there isn't one there.
JB weld or epoxy will hold it fine, but the tank will need to come down.

You'll need to add one if there isn't one there.
JB weld or epoxy will hold it fine, but the tank will need to come down.
Sounds like a project I can handle. Thank you very much!

As stated, I bet a return line fixes you right up, plus you will need the proper pressure regulator (also as stated).

I put Accel DFI on my '68 and I plumbed the return line using an additional steel line, which I routed into the filler neck with a 90 degree brass fitting. Works real good.

I also mounted the fuel pump using a bracket mounted on rubber isolators, then I wrapped Dynamat around the pump (only the clamping area) itself, so that when I tighten the stainless hose clamps, the clamps are against the Dynamat material. This reduced the fuel pump noise to almost nothing. Some of those electric fuel pumps can get really loud when mounted right to the chassis!

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1.) Use a return line
2.) Use a relay and good quality wire

Summit carrys a part that attaches between the fuel tank and the filler neck where you could attach your fuel return line. Youll probably still have to drop the tank to access it though.. I havnt used it but seen it in anouther thread..

Just got off the phone with Summit and got the new pump, return kit and relay kit on the way. Thank you. I'm sure this will solve all issues and I can burn rubber with confidence!

I don't think so. I have a toggle switch handling the power. Thank you for your thoughts.

I hope you NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use the toggle switch as the master power off. VERY dangerous and against all safety rules of every organization and track everywhere. If you get in an accident or a fire breaks out the ignition switch (and rear cutoff if a race car) must be able to stop all electric current to the ignition and fuel system. Its ok to use the toggle as a 2ndary switch but it must be behind the key switch. You dont want the pump to keep on shooting fuel into an engine bay that might catch on fire.