: Where to find: channel area around rear windshield without replacement quarters
blue89bird Oct 23rd, 06, 08:40 AM I just picked up a 68 Camaro hardtop, and while the previous owner replaced the quarters, he only used skins and not full panels. Since the car was a previous vinyl top car, the area around the windshield (sail panels I think is the proper term) are rusted out. Anybody have any idea where I can find replacements without having to hack up brand new replacement quarters that I don't want to have to buy.
TraxUnderground Oct 23rd, 06, 11:47 AM I had the same problem and did the full quarters. My roof channel was bad also so I ended up I replacing that too. I never did find any widshield channel anywhere but maybe call Goodmark and see if they have some damaged stuff that you can get cheap and cut off what you need. If not try patching with a mig. I tried and kept blowing through. Check your sheetmetal down at the base/corner of the glass. If its rotted and bondo-ed up it will probably fall apart on you eventually. I found mine to be in that condition. Its common you find rust there from the water building up. Crawl in the trunk and look up in the seam area between the quater and the filler piece thats between the trunk lid and the rear windshield. If the channels are swiss cheeze there is a good chance its lurking under there too. Mine was hidden under 5 diferent paint jobs and bondo. Heres a pic from when I 1st found it. Good luck
Steptoe Oct 23rd, 06, 12:27 PM its not difficult to bend up new sections and weld in
In my opinion and expeiance unless replacing a whole panel, small patch panels that are purchased are w waste of time and money.
blue89bird Oct 23rd, 06, 04:53 PM Thanks, I'm not doing the body work, don't trust myself, just looking to see how hard something like this is so I don't pass out when I get the bill.
blue89bird Oct 23rd, 06, 04:54 PM I had the same problem and did the full quarters. My roof channel was bad also so I ended up I replacing that too. I never did find any widshield channel anywhere but maybe call Goodmark and see if they have some damaged stuff that you can get cheap and cut off what you need. If not try patching with a mig. I tried and kept blowing through. Check your sheetmetal down at the base/corner of the glass. If its rotted and bondo-ed up it will probably fall apart on you eventually. I found mine to be in that condition. Its common you find rust there from the water building up. Crawl in the trunk and look up in the seam area between the quater and the filler piece thats between the trunk lid and the rear windshield. If the channels are swiss cheeze there is a good chance its lurking under there too. Mine was hidden under 5 diferent paint jobs and bondo. Heres a pic from when I 1st found it. Good luck
you're not too far away, wanna make a few bucks :beers:
Satatic Oct 23rd, 06, 04:56 PM I been making mine to. I bought one of those crappy throatless shears from harbor freight, best tool I have ever bought! Slice slice slice, Hammer hammer hammer. Drops right in place.
SatisTraction Oct 23rd, 06, 06:09 PM just have some bent it is 3/4 x 3/4". i bet you pass out when you get that quote. it was not hard to do but it took some time!!!!
TraxUnderground Oct 23rd, 06, 08:19 PM you're not too far away, wanna make a few bucks :beers:
Where are you? I'll help you out if you want....I dont want any money. I did alot of surgery on my car (see my signature) and I never did it before. I had alot of instructional help from my neighbor who taught me alot. If your not far I'd be happy to help you out if I can.
Let me know...I'm in central NJ
Gary
Steptoe Oct 23rd, 06, 11:24 PM Thanks, I'm not doing the body work, don't trust myself,
hmm that another way of saying "I have no self confidence"
Just pulling your tit a bit m8
For the cost the job, u pick up a small mig, weld upto 5mm, a bottle, a good pair of snips from a 2nd hand tool shop, a hammer and set of dollies...then sit down and have a play on some scrap, instead of watching NasCAR Ads..there not much actual racing now... u will have fixed the car, and a set of tools, for anything else...in effect for free.
blue89bird Oct 24th, 06, 04:45 AM hmm that another way of saying "I have no self confidence"
Just pulling your tit a bit m8
For the cost the job, u pick up a small mig, weld upto 5mm, a bottle, a good pair of snips from a 2nd hand tool shop, a hammer and set of dollies...then sit down and have a play on some scrap, instead of watching NasCAR Ads..there not much actual racing now... u will have fixed the car, and a set of tools, for anything else...in effect for free.
Well, it needs new front end sheetmetal, and a core support, so I'll be doing that. I trust myself to unbolt and bolt stuff up. lol
When it comes time to cutting stuff off, lets just say I have 2 left hands, so I don't wanna screw it up, not to mention I've never welded anything in my life, and I don't want to learn on my car. Not to mention I have like 0 spare time now, so I'd prefer just to drop it off and pick it up when done. :)
TraxUnderground Oct 24th, 06, 05:16 AM hmm that another way of saying "I have no self confidence"
Just pulling your tit a bit m8
For the cost the job, u pick up a small mig, weld upto 5mm, a bottle, a good pair of snips from a 2nd hand tool shop, a hammer and set of dollies...then sit down and have a play on some scrap, instead of watching NasCAR Ads..there not much actual racing now... u will have fixed the car, and a set of tools, for anything else...in effect for free.
He's absolutely right. I started out the same way, and am going to feel pretty damn good I did the work myself when I am cruisin in the car. I learned on my car too and didnt want to chance it. Have confidence in yoursef, and you will be fine. People on this site will teach you more than you think, but you have to want to try it. Do something small 1st on some scrap. My mig welder has been the best $ I have ever spent.
The $ you will shell out to have someone do this work for you will probably shock you, and if they do it right. Try some of the work yourself, the things you will learn will be worth way more money. If money is not an object, then by all means have a credible shop do your car.
Like I said I can help you too if you want to do things yourself and...I can find the time... and If your not far.
PS your welcome to come check out my car and see what your in for should you decide to tackle things yourself.
blue89bird Oct 24th, 06, 01:04 PM Well, just got the car home. It's definately going to need a roof skin as you can see. Here is the area around the rear window.
Front, driver side roof:
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/3/img2898jm0.th.jpg (http://img116.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2898jm0.jpg)
Area around rear window:
http://img419.imageshack.us/img419/3723/img2899sb9.th.jpg (http://img419.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2899sb9.jpg)
Drip Rail:
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1133/img2901ck2.th.jpg (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2901ck2.jpg)
Steptoe Oct 24th, 06, 01:32 PM It's definately going to need a roof skin as you can see.
It would be cheaper and less hassle to rebuild those areas rather than a new skin.
Not to mention I have like 0 spare time now, so I'd prefer just to drop it off and pick it up when done.
Are u saying u are working real long hrs...to pay for someone to do it (tounge cheek comment lol)
Guys are willing to help out, show u how to....Most Camaro guys are like gardners, a communty of old fashioned ppl who are prepared to share, simply for the sake of sharing....join them m8, then do the same in the future for some else....Thats where most of us have come from orginally.
blue89bird Oct 24th, 06, 04:47 PM It would be cheaper and less hassle to rebuild those areas rather than a new skin.
you really think so? Both drip rails are completely destroyed, and the roof area in the front, driver side is missing what I see as a fairly large section, there are also a few dents in the roof in various areas? The brand new panel is 299, I figure it would be cheaper to buy that panel, and then either replace the entire thing, or cut off what is needed and replace partial areas. Or am I completely wrong, and repairing this stuff is no big deal? Like I said, I can bolt stuff up, but I'm definately a body guy and at this point I'm just looking for advise.
Thanks guys,
You've been very helpful.
FYI: Just determined the car was originally Sequoia Green, so that's what it's going to be repainted, now I just need to decide if I'm gonna put it back to original with a black vinyl top, or leave it off.
TraxUnderground Oct 24th, 06, 06:46 PM you really think so? Both drip rails are completely destroyed, and the roof area in the front, driver side is missing what I see as a fairly large section, there are also a few dents in the roof in various areas? The brand new panel is 299, I figure it would be cheaper to buy that panel, and then either replace the entire thing, or cut off what is needed and replace partial areas. Or am I completely wrong, and repairing this stuff is no big deal? Like I said, I can bolt stuff up, but I'm definately a body guy and at this point I'm just looking for advise.
Thanks guys,
You've been very helpful.
FYI: Just determined the car was originally Sequoia Green, so that's what it's going to be repainted, now I just need to decide if I'm gonna put it back to original with a black vinyl top, or leave it off.
I think its easier and more effective to replace the skin, but it is a time consuming to cut out in the drip rails. There are alot of tiny welds that are almost impossible to get to. The roof skin I replaced was easy going in but needed some persuasion. I duramixed glued the drip rail section and welded the rest Things just dont drop in, even my nos quarters needed tweaking. When I cut my roof off I found rust creaping up the roof. I fixed my drip rail supports and por15'd the entire foof support brace. The roof skin is very flimsy and I creased mine getting it out of the truck so be patient and have a couple buddies help. I got a price here in NJ to have theold roof skin replaced, it was about 300. I dont remember if that was after I cut the old one off or not. It didnt matter cause I had no motor in the car and it was easier to just do it myself. You will need to add dynomatt or somekind of deadener to the roof skin.
If you can drill out spotwelds and use a cutoff wheel you sould be fine.
PS your roof lookes worse than mine did. Get some prices from your local shop that has experience doing it of Goodmark may be able to send you to a center near you.
Gary
Steptoe Oct 24th, 06, 10:38 PM Get some prices from your local shop that has experience doing it
That damn good advice...I keep forgetting when posting things like "cheaper than" Being in NZ I have to ship in, sales tax on part plus shipping etc etc and that almost doubles part prices.
blue89bird Oct 25th, 06, 07:41 PM I have a friend who is a great body guy, he's an NCRS judge, and has restored numerous high dollar cars, he just owns a collision shop, so getting him to commit it difficult. I can leave it there all winter though so he can work on it in his spare time. I'm going to bring it by tommorow to see how long/much $$$ he wants to take care of the cutting/welding.
Thanks for the info so far guys. I have a 72 4-4-2 that I had restored, but the man went out of business shortly afterwards after about 40 years in business.
TraxUnderground Oct 25th, 06, 07:45 PM Let us know how you make out !
blue89bird Oct 26th, 06, 04:25 PM My body guy hooked me up with someone who worked for him for 20 years and retired. He has a shop behind his house that he uses for hobby. He's going to take care of all the body work for me with me providing all the sheet metal, and then my body guy will paint it for me. Now its time to start accumulating parts. :)
jogasz28 Oct 27th, 06, 07:13 PM You ain't gonna believe it. Here's an auction for just a rear window for a '67:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-67-Chevy-Chevrolet-Camaro-BACK-WIN-FRAME-1969-1968_W0QQitemZ290040814127QQihZ019QQcategoryZ34204 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
jogas
blue89bird Oct 27th, 06, 08:11 PM holy crap! thanks!!! Now I hope he gets back to me with shipping costs
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