: orangepeel in color coat...
MrDanB Apr 17th, 03, 07:27 PM I bought a used GM rear spoiler...I sanded through 2 layers of paint until the entire thing was smooth as silk. I patched the little chips/pits with glazing putty. next, primer/sand/primer/sand etc. I shot the thing with PPG Garnet Red. Within minutes, I noticed orangepeel starting to form! It's in 3-4 areas and is pretty light. The only thing I can think of is that it was a bit on the cold side (~43 deg)
when I shot it. What can I do now? sand with fine paper clean and reshoot? Help me out guys... graemlins/beers.gif
Thanks-Dan
Toby Keen Apr 17th, 03, 09:37 PM A couple of things. The chips and pits should be feather-edged, not filled. From my perspective, the spoiler should have been stripped completely to be sure you have no incompatible material under the new color coat. It's still not to late to do that. Guessing at the cause of the orange peel in only a few places is just that; guessing, but it shouldn't be happening the way you describe. Strip it to fiberglass and start from scratch.
MrDanB Apr 18th, 03, 04:53 AM Toby,
Thanks for the reply! Originally, I did strip the spoiler down to f-glass.The spoiler had been painted twice, it looked like There were minor pits (like rock chips in the front of a truck...) I will resand, reread other posts, and reshoot. Next, I will need a stencil for drilling the holes in my deck lid!
Thanks again-Dan
Oramac68 Apr 18th, 03, 05:50 PM Mr Dan, When you got down to the bare fiberglass, did you wipe down with wax and grease remover? if you did, good chances are that it soaked in the glass, and after you painted it the residue was trapped under the paint, causing the craters or orange peel look. The only type of cleaner I use on any bare fiberglass is isopropoal alcohol (rubbing), it evaporates completly.
MrDanB Apr 19th, 03, 04:05 PM Oramac, I did purchase a product called "Mar-Hyde" on a friends suggestion...but DID NOT use it. I just got done shooting a second thin coat tonight with pretty good success. (I say "pretty good" because my golden retriever decided to nudge the garage door open and shake off a bunch of fur! graemlins/angry.gif So now I get to pick out 20 or 30 pieces of dog hair off the spoiler! I'll get it done before summer gets here. lol!
Thanks for the help/replies. Now I just need to make a stencil off a friends car so I can drill the trunk lid! :eek: :eek:
Dan
zuma Apr 21st, 03, 02:38 PM Dan, When I attached my spoiler, I used a long piece of cardboard and traced the outer part of the spoiler, cut it out and then with the studs inplace, pushed the studs into the cardboard, Worked perfectly...Hope this helps...BTW also used small thin rubber washers on the outside of the top studs to seal the holes, plus dumdum around the bolts on the inside to keep things dry...Hope this helps....Good luck :D Mike
GMJim Apr 22nd, 03, 10:18 AM Dan
I would do what zuma1211 says and make a template with YOUR spoiler. I haven't seen two spoilers that are alike. Or two trunk lids that are drilled the same.
Jim
BBCamaro Apr 22nd, 03, 01:57 PM hey dan after stripping or wherever you are now, i would prime it with a 2k urethane primer, put 2-3 heavy coats on it and let sit for 24 hrs at at least 55-60 degrees, then block sand with 220 grit, and then re shoot with urethane primer and block with 400, then spray with color, this 2k will seal the entire spoiler and not allow anything to bleed through, goodluck
jake
MrDanB Apr 22nd, 03, 04:29 PM Zuma & GM...Thanks for the advice!!! I did a search for over an hour on the site regarding mounting the spoiler...One guy said he took the studs out, and stuffed the felt tips from felt pens up in the holes, then carefully "blot" the ink onto the masking tape...lol I have to give the guy an "a" for effort, but what a waste of time! The only thing about the cardboard thing is that the studs seem to angle inwards towards the middle a bit. Wouldn't this throw off the placement of the hole by a smidge? Also, i've read that the hole needs to be larger than the studs by more than you would think?!! Deck lids aren't overly expensive...I guess I'll give it a whirl.
Jake-Thanks for the help! I stripped it totally down, cleaned well, shot hi-solids primer, sand, primer guide coat sand primer etc etc etc, then primer sealer, then PPG urethane Garnet red! It looks great to me. Now just to get it mounted flush with the edge of the trunk...
Thanks again to all!!!
p.s. When I finally break down and get a dig. camera, I'll post some close up shots!
graemlins/beers.gif Dan B graemlins/beers.gif
zuma Apr 22nd, 03, 05:27 PM Dan, If you get them close (the holes) you may need to elongate them a little...It's nearly impossible to get them all to line up perfectly...I had the same problem, thats why I used the rubber washer trick on the uppers, the lower nuts sit over the trunk gasket creating a good seal...good luck...Mike P. S. Have a great time at the car show in Seattle, It's a beautiful place to have one... graemlins/beers.gif
beeskerdog Apr 22nd, 03, 06:29 PM I went through pretty much the same thing. The studs on my spoiler were glued in (an OER). The studs don't line up -so you can pretty much see that each one is unique and has to be custom fit. I used cardboard and fit it over the small studs. For the long studs, I cut slots in the template so I could fit over the studs and match the curve of the spoiler. Once I had the template in position, I taped "patches" over each of the long stud "slots". This captures where the studs will pass through the deck lid. I used a marker to outline the footprint of the spoiler and that made the drill template.
http://members.aol.com:/beeskerdog/spoiler_template http://members.aol.com:/beeskerdog/drill_holes
Because the studs are at angles, the holes have to get quite a bit bigger in order to get the spoiler to seat. I worked as carefully as I could and still messed up on the reveal. The right side shows about 1/16 inch more deck than the left. When I get back to it, I think some minor file work is all that's needed.
good luck graemlins/thumbsup.gif
KWIK 69 Apr 23rd, 03, 07:58 AM If you go to Rick's First Gen (http://www.firstgen.com) and download the online catalog, there is a diagram (on p.167) with dimensions that will get you real close. This is what I used and it turned out to be pretty close. There will probably always be some modification to some of the round holes because the top row studs and the bottom row studs are not parallel. The use of the rubber washers seals the elongated hole.
Anyway, I layed out all the holes and marked them in pencil then put chalk on the bottom of my studs and set the spoiler in place as a check.
Good luck!
MrDanB Apr 23rd, 03, 03:28 PM To ALL: "Glory Hallelujah!!!!" I cut out some cardboard and made a stencil, then I taped the stencil to the trunk lid. Then, I carefully slid the spoiler into position and pushed down until I heard the studs "poke" the stencil. I removed the spoiler, and used a fairly small o.d. drill bit and did the deed! Then removed the cardboard and drilled several more times getting progressively bigger in bit o.d. The spoiler is wanting to go into the holes...I just need to ream them out a bit...Looks like the thing came out almost perfect side to side, and real nice along the trunk lid edge! Big cyber beers to all for your help/posts.
I've read in a previous post that the body lines around the quarter panels are the "cleavage" of the car...If that's true, then the rear spoiler must be the testicles!!! :eek:
Dan B graemlins/waving.gif
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