View Full Version : smoothing out Firewall???
HawaiianCamaro Jul 12th, 02, 05:26 PM Been looking at pics of Stielow's new moster to be (Mule) and was wondering what issue of Pop Hot Rodding might have covered how the Firewall was done. Any other inputs on the issue also please. After a through cleaning and stripping down of my firewall shows more rust than I had hoped for and I figure the best way to remedy the problem is to smooth it out since the rusted areas are in the top arch.
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Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442
http://hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro/index.html
HawaiianZ/28 Jul 12th, 02, 08:24 PM classic industries sells a complete inner cowl panel, it's costly and will require extensive welding. i'm considering going that route only if i can find a good body shop in Hawaii.
boodlefoof Jul 13th, 02, 05:45 AM As I was restoring my firwall a few weeks ago, I was surprised to see that it appears as though the factory tried to smooth it out slightly... as in, all the little divits for the spot welds had that seam sealer stuff in them.
I remember reading recently that someone on this board used body filler to smooth out the firewall. Sounds like it would work well.
bonecrusher67conv Jul 13th, 02, 10:22 AM I'm working of parts of my firewall and air plenums now. Originally I thought the one inch swipe of seam sealer was the only stuff on the firewall seams. But, like the above poster stated, some of the spot rivets indeed have factory bondo. It appears in 67 the factory used plastic filler or seam sealer in the horizontal seam in the firewall that runs above the heater suitcase that has turned grainy and yellow over the years. Also there is filler/sealer where the verticle seam from the firewall meets the side air boxes, and big chunks of filler to divert cowl area water away from any large gaps in the side air boxes. There is even plastic filler in the center holes of the two rivets holding on the firewall tag. I discovered that when I found one of my rivets vibrating loose. On my convertible I have carved out all of the original plastic filler & sealer I can, so I can treat the small amount surface rust that has formed beneath. Soon I will spray black PPG DP90 epoxy primer on these area and use much less filler than the factory in those same areas over the epoxy primer. Then after I'm satisfied with the prep, hit it again with a light coat of DP90 and then spray with underhood black within 12 hours. I would rather make sure that I nip the rust in the bud with the epoxy primer under the filler, because I know the rust will creep back under the filler somehow. I say somehow, because my firewall looked really good and clean until I started digging into the hairline cracks in the seams with plastic filler/sealer.
[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 07-13-2002).]
Allen M Jul 13th, 02, 03:34 PM http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif I'll be selling an inner cowl section with the bottom section under the dash on eBay next week after I take picture. RUST FREE AND ORIGINAL.
RFrenette Jul 13th, 02, 03:52 PM What about that POR Putty? I plan on using that to smooth out the welds on my sub frame.
I talked to the guys at RestoMotive and they said prep it, 2 coats of POR 15 then sand areas to be filled. Apply Putty and sand after drying. Then one more coat of POR 15 over it and it should look great!
Good luck,
Rob
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69 Frame-off in progress (pics) (http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing)
HawaiianZ/28 Jul 13th, 02, 05:13 PM my buddy, used the POR putty on his firewall as Rob mentioned. I'm a believer, it's durable! My neighbor is a POR15 distributor in Hawaii and we put the paint and putty in an acid bath. it came out unscathed! only the metal parts were affected. you have to follow the instructions for it to be effective.
HawaiianCamaro Jul 13th, 02, 05:21 PM Allen M can you e-mail me I see you dont have one listed. Would like a chance at the part before it gets to e-bay. Will it be the complete cowl section or what part of it. Also looking for the top half of the firewall that meets the cowls curve. I had to cut out a section of mine. OH RUST isnt if grand what you dont see until you strp the old paint off http://www.camaros.net/forum/frown.gif
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Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442
http://hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro/index.html
click Jul 14th, 02, 05:42 AM Three letters come to mind for straightening something out BFH
click http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif
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69RS 350/255 LM1,TH350,Dover White,Blue Vinyl top
F&R spoilers,pdb,Close ratio ps,am/fm,3.08 Posi.,A/C,
fold down rear seat.
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS (http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS)
Allen M Aug 7th, 02, 09:02 AM It took a while, but here it is...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1849699284
craigon Aug 7th, 02, 12:52 PM I could not find it in the PHR, but I though I saw it in phr??? I'll look again, but I know he used the Detroit Speed firewall panel product. Go to their project page at http://www.detroitspeed.com/ and follow link to "Michael Vincent's 1969 Camaro", page 2 and "Jeff Hyosaka's 1969 Camaro". Both links show it being installed.
HawaiianCamaro Aug 8th, 02, 12:48 PM Allen, Round wiper motor hole = 67 do you have the motor to go with it
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Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442 http://hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro/index.html http://www.hawaiianislandcamaros.org
[This message has been edited by HawaiianCamaro (edited 08-08-2002).]
Allen M Aug 16th, 02, 06:02 PM Yes I do have a wiper motor also.
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