With all this talk of fuel pump mounts, i decided to post some pictures of my latest creation.

*ignore the return line, i'm redoing it tomorrow, i bent it up for another configuration and it didnt work out, but its there temporarily*

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1010011.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1010009.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1010008.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1010007.jpg

the bracket it 3/8" .060 wall 316 stainless tubing, i welded a stainless nut to the tab/tube, which i installed an ARP stud in for the ground.
-from that i will run a wire to my roll bar ground, but i havent the time yet.
I welded 1/4" studs into the ends of of the tubing, and used flanged nuts to capture it.

Very nice, very tidy. Food for thought! Thanks, Brian.

Nice work Brian, couple questions for you if you don't mind.

Why two (or three???) fuel cells in your trunk?

Is it just the picture or is your fuel pump mounted kind of high compared to the top of your tank? Any problems with prime or does the fact that the pump is behind the tank(s) help with prime?

What kind of safety features have you built in in the event of a fuel leak (ie: like if someone rear-ended your car)?

How do you have your passenger compartment separated from the trunk? (thinking fire proofing here)

Thanks

Eric

thanks!

Eric thanks, and to answer your questions.

Fuel cell, battery box, weight box. I have two batteries in the car, and about 30lbs in the weight box.

the pump had no issues priming, infact the previous mallory which makes less pressure had no issues ethier.

I fallowed the NHRA guidelines on the cell mounting, and the pump has the bumper and frame rail ends to protect it, its no more a hazard then the stock tank's inlet was.

for fireproofing the NHRA requires that it be closed off by at least i believe .034 aluminum.

the battery upfront is a lightweight Odessey 1200, at 35lbs

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1011530.jpg

Cool, thanks Brian. So I take it you are running the ignition off one battery when racing and everything else off the other?

nah, i actually run them both all the time.

What i did was try running without an alternator, i was successful, but it was a real PITA.

So i put an ECAE alternator on it.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/P1010003.jpg

these are pretty cool, and really shouldnt slow the car at all.

Brian, That looks like a 50 Amp alternator. Is that the case? That is the same one you can often times find at the wrecking yard on Geo Metros and similar cars. With two batteries it should work ok but, with only one battery on a street car it will not keep up if you have electric fans, eletric fuel pump, lights, etc... (and you can forget about a stereo system) The Denso alternators that can be found on many cars i.e.. Toyotas, Acuras, etc.. put out a lot more amps and are not much larger. For what you are doing the tiny aleternator is just fine, just don't want guys with drivers to think they will be able to run one of those reliably on the street.

no i dont drive mine on the street anymore. I'll try it out and see how it works, we have two at work on our stockers and they both work great.

next project, stainless headers with merge collectors, megaphones and reverse cones! I'm going to remove the exhaust also.

You have one of these installed too, right?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid96/pd599c5b9d7062de59649cd4af916c12a/fa1adde0.jpg

I think a firewall between the cell and pass. compartment is mandatory with the NHRA but I could be wrong.

jim