View Full Version : Used Lunati cam install
Mike68RS Nov 3rd, 06, 03:44 PM I bought a used Lunati 401A6lun solid flat tappet cam with Isky EDM lifters that I plan to install in my 68 Camaro. The cam and lifters had low miles and were labeled for each lobe. I also bought new matching Lunati double springs, (125 Lbs Seat Pressure @ 1.850 Installed Height) retainers and locks. I know the basic precautions of removing the inner springs, EOS, rotella, 2500 for 30 min., etc. when breaking in a new FT cam, but since this cam has ran before, do I throw most of that advice out the door?
Thanks,
Mike
River Nov 3rd, 06, 04:01 PM If the lifters go back on the same lobe i don't see how breakin run would help;
River
zdld17 Nov 3rd, 06, 04:09 PM Ditto but keep using the Delo, nothing wrong with it.
camaroman7d Nov 3rd, 06, 04:38 PM Both lifter and cam is used and are mated, you do not need to "re-break" in the cam. Hopefully you bought the cam from a person you can trust, if you have any doubts I would suggest you buy a new cam and lifters, they do not cost much (flat tappet) and not worth taking any chances. Just how "used" are these parts?
Mike68RS Nov 3rd, 06, 05:33 PM Hopefully you bought the cam from a person you can trust, if you have any doubts I would suggest you buy a new cam and lifters, they do not cost much (flat tappet) and not worth taking any chances. Just how "used" are these parts?
Royce, I bought them from a trusted person on Team Chevelle, where I also am a member. He said they had about 3000 miles on them. As far as costs, a new Lunati 401a6lun is $175 and a set of Isky EDM lifters are about $125. I bought the set for considerably less. I understand your concern and I'm hopefull everthing will go smoothly, that's why I wanted to take all precautions even if it is a used cam. I actually feel more confident with it being used, since it was already running. I just want to make sure I don't miss anything. My only other concern is installing the new springs in my Trick Flow heads. It will be the first time I've installed new springs and I want to do it right. I'm sure when I get to that part of the install, I'll be asking for help. :)
Thanks,
Mike
camaroman7d Nov 3rd, 06, 11:09 PM Mike,
Good deal, nothing wrong with saving a few bucks. Just buying a used cam is kind of risky, especially flat tappet cams. If the cam is not damaged/worn and was broken in correctly, you should have no issues. You do not need to remove the inner spring or anything like that since the cam is broken in already.
Installing springs is a piece of cake as long as you have a decent valve spring compressor. You might spend he few extra bucks and buy a valve spring mic, not 100% needed but, does make it nice to set the installed height. It can also be done with a machinists ruler (metal ruler, 6").
sschevellefan Nov 3rd, 06, 11:20 PM Mike,
You might spend he few extra bucks and buy a valve spring mic, not 100% needed but, does make it nice to set the installed height. It can also be done with a machinists ruler (metal ruler, 6").
I`ve used a dial caliper as well as a snap gauge and then mic it. Not as accurate as the spring mic but it works and gets it very close.
ron498 Nov 4th, 06, 01:07 AM Just watch the lash closely for a period of time.
There is no guarantee that the lifter bores in your block are in exactly the same location relative to the cam as they were in his block.
Probably even mor of an issue in a rat, but just be safe and check stuff.
Ron
Busted Knuckles Nov 4th, 06, 06:04 AM I agree with Ron - it's actually seldom that the lifter bores are in the exact relation to the cam which is why I don't try it, but I've heard of it being done successfully. If you have a lobe go flat, it'll cost you a whole lot more than you saved when you have to tear it down, clean everything out and start with a new cam and lifter setup. At any rate, use the break-in goo and procedure to get 'em mated and give yourself the best chance of success. Good luck, I hope it works for you.
Mike68RS Nov 4th, 06, 06:51 AM Thanks for all the info guys, I really appreciate it. As soon as I get all of the parts together, I'll start tearing her down and install the cam. I'm slow, but I'll keep you informed.
Mike
Mike68RS Nov 7th, 06, 12:03 PM I have a question already before I started. I have to install new Lunati springs in my Trick Flow heads to match the cam, should I run the stock Trick flow springs up to 3000 rpm or so before I swap them out for the matched Lunati springs? The cam specs are 243/251 518/530
Here are the specs on both:
Trick Flow:
1.250" o.d. single with damper
110 lbs. @ 1.780" installed height
300 lbs. @ 1.280" open
360 lbs. per inch rate
.480" maximum valve lift
Lunati 73100:
Outside Diameter (O.D.) : 1.450
Coil Bind : 1.070
Inside Diameter (I.D.) : 0.740
Installed Height/Pressure : 125# @ 1.850
Open Pressure : 345 lbs.
Mike
zdld17 Nov 7th, 06, 12:17 PM Mike, I believe you said your cam was already broke in so I don't see need of using only part of your springs to break in more, unless it bothers you and you want to take every precaution to save any lobes. When using flats, I used only the outer spring to break in ,, I went to 1.430 and had no issues later . I am at 1.55 now but with a roller...
If it really worrries you , put the large outer springs on and run engine.. when you are satisfied, put the inners on and be done. All this is providing you have already determined what the finished set spring height is.
Be sure you know where coil bind is.
I have always set spring pressures on bench, documented all numbers, then put those numbers into head spring pockets. If thats not enuff worry, go get an on engine spring tester ( like the pro stockers do) and test each one .
Mike68RS Nov 7th, 06, 01:05 PM Yea, I guess I'm just trying to be too carefull. I'll just take the same precautions as a new cam and go with it.
Mike
|