I get vibration that comes and goes, anywhere from 40 MPH thru 70. Changing loading appears to have an effect, and I have replaced two out of round runout on the OD of the tire wheels. The tires did set in the garage for about 5 years on the car, not jacked up. I've had two different M22s in the car, so I don't think its tranny. U joints are new, but I am going to check drive shaft balance and U joints. I'm thinking it may be in the 12 bolt carrier or pinion bearings. It does have new axle bearings and no axle brinneling.
Need some ideas on this one.
Thanks
Al B

Al, I am having same problem now for a few years. Have replaced pretty much everything but driveshaft, so that's my next call: to Denny's Driveshaft. I had my car on chassis dyno and the guy looked at it and said it appeared too short. I'm using a small-block driveshaft and I then switched to BB engine.

Plus I ran the car up to about 80mph on the dyno and he said he could see the shaft vibrating.

Anyway, here's a document with lots of things to check for vibrations:
http://csgbenefits.org/camarovibration.pdf


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I was talking to the tech guy at Inland Empire Drive shaft last week. My 69 has had a vibration above 67MPH since new. With two different overdrives. And with two different 'phasings'.
He felt the most important factor was shaft diameter. Larger is better. Second is length. The shaft must have no more than a quarter inch clearance from the differential yoke when pushed forward into the tranny for removal.
One of their shafts is on my list for this winter. Here's their web site. Lots of good scoop; http://www.iedls.com/measure.html
Dave! Great pdf! I saved it. Thanks.

Hey Fred, please post here if a new driveshaft solves your vibration. Glad the pdf helped. I got most of it from a guy here last year...........

Curious that your guy would say larger diameter is better. I woulda thought a larger diameter would only increase your chance of a vibration.......

You've actually had your car since it was new?? damn, heheh

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Dave---Hee-hee-hee,,,, :hurray: And I'll be sure to post here. We're doing some 'updating'. The new Hooker super comps should be here in a couple days from Jethot. I just ordered new 3 1/2" into 3" X exhaust this morning from Ram Air. Got their polished stainless mufflers too.:thumbsup: (thanks to the guys on this site) Also ordered a new engine stand and movable balance adapter for the cherry picker. (obviously it's payday!) Next up is the shaft and TCI high stall converter and new lift bars. Whew.:p

I had this same problem for many years also and i replaced the drive shaft and got rid of 90 % of problem.. I first used the factory driveshaft that has the 22.5 degree twist in it and would vibrate me to death around 80 to 100 mph. I had one built and the right length. along the way i tried different trany's and clutch things , the old shifter rattling while driving. This drove me crazy. A old racer told me about this factory defect. He new exactly that the camaro was the only car that had this drive shaft. This guy builds trucks and fabricating for years and told me that a drive shaft is either in line or 90% out with respect of universals and that is it! ( his words) The funny thing was at that time he new exactly what the drive shaft came out of before i even opened my mouth to talk about this problem
Now this is my opinion of the remaining bit, which is . I have factory motor mounts and crossmember in this car. I now quite of few people with these big block cars with same problem. The engine and the transmission are moved over to the passenger 1 inch and i think this is enought to throw a little vibration into the driveline. What i always wanted to do is put in straight motor mounts and standard sbc crossmember and go for a drive and see what happens.

........ The engine and the transmission are moved over to the passenger 1 inch and i think this is enought to throw a little vibration into the driveline. What i always wanted to do is put in straight motor mounts and standard sbc crossmember and go for a drive and see what happens.

Yeah, most of us are aware of the engine being shifted to right side a tad. However, I have a buddy with a '69 BB (original) and his car is smooth as glass, and I mean smooootth. No vibration at all, just smooth acceleration. It's a 396 and you'd think it was a jet (turbine) engine in there, it's that smooth, even at high speed..............

OK, great! But what's he running from the engine, back?

OK, great! But what's he running from the engine, back?

OK, great! But what's he running from the engine, back?

The car is totally original, as far as I know. He's overhauled (and hopped up) the engine a bit; headers, cam, new heads, that kind of stuff, but the tranny and driveshaft are stock, I believe. It's just unreal how smooth the car is...........


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I thought that in 69 they did not move the engine over for clearance

Just checked and 69 does use different frame and motor mounts.
I have only heard of people with 67 and 68 that had this problem?
The crossmember i'am not sure about difference?

Just checked and 69 does use different frame and motor mounts.......

Are you saying that '69 has engine centered in chassis?

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The 67.68, & 69 all had the different frame mounts for the BB Engine & all 4 speed cars used a different transmission crossmember, the crossmember is real hard to find. Some people redrill the small block cross member, I used one like that for about a year till I found the crorect BB Crossmember. I paid way to much for the crossmember, but I had to have it to make my car right.

Johny, hope you didn't pay too much. Classic Camaro has 'em on page 853, 80 bucks or less.

Hey guys,
This may sound crazy but a fried of mine had a similar problem with the vibrations.
He replaced a whole bunch of stuff and it didn't go away.
Turns out his water pump started leaking so he replace it and the vibration went away. Pump had a bad bearing and it didn't vibrate until a certain rpm.
Hope this helps.
Schoon

I've pulled the drive shaft, replaced the rear universal, replaced the pinion yoke and had drive shaft balanced. The shop I used, Precision Shaft Technologies, pointed out that yoke phasing on Camaros, not being at 90 degrees, was typical of Camaro and questionable, but we didn't change it for now. The pinion yoke had about .050" side to side clearance of the universal joint, which could contribute to the problem. Car is better now, but I may phase the Ujoints 90 degrees next. I never thought of engine offset issue. Thanks for all the feedback

Alben, because of this thread, I checked my side-to-side. The engine is moved over an equal amount on both sets of mounts. That's in keeping with industry standard that I've read about so it shouldn't be the cause of the problem. BUT! The rear yoke on these cars is TOO LOW. I raised mine with wedges last month. I needed SIX degrees of total pinion lift to get close to parallel to the transmission centerline. Road tests will happen sometime in April. Cross your fingers for me, PLEASE!
P.S. I suspect that the stock drive shafts are built 'out of phase' just because of the low pinion that was mounted low for snubber clearance so we could load a little league team into the back seat.

I have a base '69, nothing stock about it...but I did have a real vibration problem a few years back. The car would feel like it was falling apart cruising over 70 mph, but be smooth as long i was in the throttle. I always blamed the tires ( i was running 14" cragars with old BFG's and refused to buy new ones knowing I was going to a different rim). Well when I upgraded the rear suspension (full hotchkis tvs system, but did the rear first)....the problem was gone. It was an original 6 banger car with a mono leaf spring setup. I was shocked that the vibration went away...With the new springs/bushings/sway bar the car drove great without any other changes. It was perfectly smooth at 100+ I know it's not the first thing you'll think of (it wasnt for me), but if all else fails, its another idea for you.

could be the ring and pinion are worn out...when the gears get sharp, they vibrate...also, alot of auto overdrives have this problem...they put a harmonic balancer in the front yoke to eleviate it...also, to get the best power to the ground, we`ve set our pinion angle at 4 deg...that might also help...