can any of you z/ 28 experts tell me what this might be worth ? solid body, uu paint code, 717 int code, no engine or transmission, but so far I am about 99% sure it is a z/28 the man has had it since 1970 according to his title, has all the signs of a real car, not alot of rust for its age, but needs complete restoration, int is all there, 12 bolt rear, multiple leaf springs, etc...thanks

1968's are the toughest to verify. What do you have for verification. Does the seller have any paperwork to verify it? If it is real (for sure) and what is there is in good condition I say $10,000. If you want to make it whole again, that would be the only goal to pay for a 1968 Z/28 roller in my opinion, you need to take stock and figure how much to locate and buy the parts. MO engines are more rare than DZ engines. Good luck.

the rear springs, inside glove door, welded tail pipe mount, 4 caliper disc brakes, tach, , but no engine or trans, i am not sure what its worth. paul

So far nothing to prove it is a Z/28. Could be an SS also.

then what would be a tell tale sign ? old photos with the man and his car ? i just dont know, even after reading the books, what would signify a SS vs z/28, the rear springs ? tic toc tac ? wood wheel ? 4 caliper disc brakes ? please advise

As far as 68's go, it's pretty much impossible without the original engine or paperwork.

Paul W,

The biggest thing you have going is the history of the owner, owning it since 1970. If he can find an old pic, that would be good. Not to many cars were bought in 70-74 and made into Z clones - they usually just added the stereo stripes and/or Z emblems. As for SS vs. Z, just use your options lists you stated, tac is different, so were wheels, especially look at glove box since he owned it since 70s; most people didnt remove glove box info but got worn out. I have four 68 Zs, and had no problem paying 10k for them 5 yrs ago, so now consider inflation. I like 69s style more, but a 68 convertible is bolder! Depending on condition of rust and new parts to replace, easily 10 to 15k. Remember, there were 7x more 69Zs made than 68Zs, and when their rarity factor hits the market, they will be more valuable than 69Zs. Plus, 68Zs were faster in the 1/4 than 67s or 69s!! A real 68SS car isnt bad to get either. All in all, get a pic if possible, then check parts for originality as to a 68Z and a 4sp car. If you have other questions, email me.

Good luck!
Marty

As said, only Z/28's came with 15 inch wheels.
Full size spare tire (15 in.) came with Limited slip diif.
Sticker on trunk lid for limited slip lube?
Z/28's came with 37A alternator, XXXX515 external regulator, as all others did.
Deep groove power steering pulley, XXX1105(?), if equipped.
No cowl hood.
No power brakes, engines did not develop enough vacuum to safely operate power-assisted brakes, I think, I could be mistaken.
The owner's word - check face language, eye contact, etc.

68 Z's had power brakes... the front spring tags... if they are still there should read EE and the rear springs should in all likely hood be 4 leaf springs... the rear unless an optional ratio was ordered would have been a BU coded 3.73.

Also would have the muncie speedometer piercing in the firewall.

In 68 manual steering Z's would have received the fast ratio manual steering box with the aluminum cover vs the cast iron cover... correct?

If the car is still in it's original paint... take some pictures of the stripe details... the best documentation you could have would be dealer paper work... however with this car the Glove box lid and any other original info/ pictures you can get would go along way.

As said, only Z/28's came with 15 inch wheels.
Full size spare tire (15 in.) came with Limited slip diif.
Sticker on trunk lid for limited slip lube?
Z/28's came with 37A alternator, XXXX515 external regulator, as all others did.
Deep groove power steering pulley, XXX1105(?), if equipped.
No cowl hood.
No power brakes, engines did not develop enough vacuum to safely operate power-assisted brakes, I think, I could be mistaken.
The owner's word - check face language, eye contact, etc.

The engine is gone. No parts.

Limited slip was an option. Power disk was mandatory. Still could be an SS.

Paul, try to get pictures and post them here. Any chance the seller knows who he bought it from? Pictures and documentation. You did not say if it was a Norwood or Van Nuys car. Possibly the build sheet is above the gas tank.

i dont know if i am more confused now or not you guys sure give alot of information, it says nor on the tag on the firewall, but a little surface rust also,

Hello Paul,
Are you talking about the one in Middletown, that the guy is asking $18K for?
Eric

Paul,

It really all comes down to "does the car have the original "MO" stamped block or not". Without the original "MO" block, my suspicion arises if someone is advertising a "1968 Z/28 roller". I'm sure there a lots of real 1968 Z/28 rollers out there. The majority of the car buying public does not have the knowledge to tell the difference between a real Z/28 and a fake. The scam sellers know this. Lets say I have a 1968 roller with a 12 bolt. What will bring me more money?, "1968 roller", or, "1968 Z/28 roller"? I own a real 1968 Z/28 and even I have trouble telling real Z's from fakes. If I were ever going to buy another Z/28, I would hire an expert like Jerry MacNeish, or, someone from CRG to inspect the car PRIOR to purchase. This in my opinion would be $$$ well spent.

eric, I am not quite sure what one you are talking about but 18,000 I would think is to much what does he have ???

can any of you z/ 28 experts tell me what this might be worth ? solid body, uu paint code, 717 int code, no engine or transmission, but so far I am about 99% sure it is a z/28 the man has had it since 1970 according to his title, has all the signs of a real car, not alot of rust for its age, but needs complete restoration, int is all there, 12 bolt rear, multiple leaf springs, etc...thanks

Paul,

It really all comes down to "does the car have the original "MO" stamped block or not". Without the original "MO" block, my suspicion arises if someone is advertising a "1968 Z/28 roller". I'm sure there a lots of real 1968 Z/28 rollers out there. The majority of the car buying public does not have the knowledge to tell the difference between a real Z/28 and a fake. The scam sellers know this. Lets say I have a 1968 roller with a 12 bolt. What will bring me more money?, "1968 roller", or, "1968 Z/28 roller"? I own a real 1968 Z/28 and even I have trouble telling real Z's from fakes. If I were ever going to buy another Z/28, I would hire an expert like Jerry MacNeish, or, someone from CRG to inspect the car PRIOR to purchase. This in my opinion would be $$$ well spent.

Paul's first post. No engine or tranny.

Paul, here's a good rule of thumk. If you don't know your reg. suspension vs. Z suspension, plus other std. items verse Z items, and your looking at spending over $5,000 on a car, then its best to spend a little more money($500) on a prof. review of the car, for example, jerry MacNiesh. Though, it is cheaper to just buy his book $29 and literaly read the book for points to determine a Z, but only if you have some knowledge/mechanical aptitude to utilize the info. and can examine parts. I checked with Jerry M. on his price for analyzing a car. At worst, you spend $500 to determine the car your looking at purchasing is a clone, and still have the other 4,500, which is better than spending $,$$$$ on a car that later turns up not what you think it is and has $10ks of lessor value than you were hoping it would have.
Im no mechanical expert or engineer, but over the years have studied the parts and areas necessary for a car to be a Z, therefore, I have no problem analysing the cars I look at, but if you have doubt, either dont buy it or pay up front for Professional assistance(not your best friend the ford lover). Also, you can write a sales agreement listing exactly what your buying, which if a guy is being honest, he has no problem signing it, and the scam sellers refuse to sign it and start stuttering, making up stories about what some other guy stated the car was.

Plus, since it doesnt have original motor and more than likely you will never find it, do realize you can only make it a numbers(cast and date) matching car. I have owned a couple orig. drivetrain cars. If someone has an ORIGINAL drivetrain car, they usually have no problem telling you so. Theres no way to legally or otherwise distort the meaning of original; from the factory. The term "numbers matching" has been used too losely over the years, and means correct as to the year and make of the parts, which is the next best thing to original drivetrain. Though, the biggest difference would be in value of the car which could approximately be an additional 20-30% higher for original.

Hope this helps you out at not just buying the car, but also in evaluating your reason for buying the car; another toy or a serious investment.

Marty

Paul emailed a few pictures to me. Here is the tire pressure sticker. It says E70-15 4 ply.

Here's the tach. It is the 6K/7K tach.

Tire pressure sticker looks like real deal. Time to get the checkbook and close the sale.

but what is it really worht if there is no motor or transmission ??? Paul

Paul, you can't really put a fixed price to it. If you want it you must pay what the owner wants, or deal him down. I figure you will have $10K to put a real MO motor back together. Only 8000 of them produced, so thay are rare. If you don't want to put it back together as a Z, then don't buy this one. The pictures you sent did not really show the interior. The exterior looks pretty good. I would say if you could get him to take $8000, that would be a steal. Just mho.

Come on you '68 guys.