: Spring removel question? Install Hotchkis?
mnm99 Nov 11th, 06, 07:18 AM I just removed the drivers side spring WITHOUT a spring compressor. I had no problems and came out safe. I had to lower it a good ways to remove it. It was compressed ALOT. I'm installing hotchkis 2 inch lowering springs. Do I need a spring compressor or will a jack under the lower arm with the car stands do? When I jack the lower arm with the stock spring it doesn't compress at all just lifts the car. With no front end it's pretty lite.
ChuckD Nov 11th, 06, 08:28 AM MNM, I replaced my coils up front with the stock ones. I took them out same as you, but used the compressor. Not sure it was truly necessary, but safety first. When removing you need to suppress/contain the stored energy in the spring. Once removed, the new ones go in. I was able to index the upper coil, and with the LCA lowered way down, I slightly lifted the spring into the LCA pocket and started jacking it up at the ball joint. It all went together quickly and safely. As soon as you can, connect the spindle, top and bottom, to secure the spring. Since you have 2" lowering springs, I suspect they are a bit shorter, and also a higher rate. I'd bet that they may pop in without much squeeze. If not, compress them a bit and locate them in the pockets, and jack it up. My bet is that they will drop in since they are shorter, but safety first!! Take your time.
Chuck D.
bearcat44 Nov 11th, 06, 09:37 AM I just did this and can tell you that the compressor isn't needed. A chain however, is very important. Get a good metal bike chain (I used one from an old weight set). wrap the chain around the coil spring and lock it to the subframe. This will keep you from killing yourself when you do the other one. The springs are very unpredictable and we'd like to hear from you again.
The hotchkis do not require any compressing as they are shorter. When you are jacking it up however stand clear of the front of the spring as it may shoot out.
David
bearcat44 Nov 11th, 06, 09:39 AM Also, your gonna need to get some weight on that subframe if you want the method I just decribed to work. Is there anything you can strap the frame to so it will stay grounded?
David
mnm99 Nov 11th, 06, 09:58 AM I just did this and can tell you that the compressor isn't needed. A chain however, is very important. Get a good metal bike chain (I used one from an old weight set). wrap the chain around the coil spring and lock it to the subframe. This will keep you from killing yourself when you do the other one. The springs are very unpredictable and we'd like to hear from you again.
The hotchkis do not require any compressing as they are shorter. When you are jacking it up however stand clear of the front of the spring as it may shoot out.
David
Well the way I did it was to keep the nuts on the upper and lower ball joint, keep the jack under the lower arm. I KEPT the shock in since I have new ones. Unscrewed the upper nut and the spindle popped off easy because of the shock holding it. Then I loosened the nut on the top of the shock that lowered it another 1 1/2 until the end then the the spring just fell out.
mnm99 Nov 11th, 06, 10:00 AM Also, your gonna need to get some weight on that subframe if you want the method I just decribed to work. Is there anything you can strap the frame to so it will stay grounded?
David
Nothing on the ground to keep the sunframe on the ground. I guess with the hotchkis springs I'll need a compressor to get them back in?
JimM Nov 11th, 06, 11:57 AM I almost hate to mention this, wouldn't want someone to get killed... but if you get a length of GOOD chain, wrap it around the sub, then around the axle in the front of your jack, and secure the 2 ends of the chain together, the jack will pull the sub down while it is pushing the a-arm up.
For gawdsake be careful tho.
Lucky68 Nov 11th, 06, 02:34 PM I just did this last month. There was no weight on my front end besides the sheet metal. Engine & trans were removed. I didn't need a spring compressor at all to install the Hotchkis springs. I replaced my factory arms with global west tubulars so I don't know if that made a difference. I'm guessing not. To tell you the truth once I got the spring indexed on the upper and lower control arms, it didn't take much jacking to get the ball joints through the spindels. I never felt unsafe at any time, but I also never worked directly in front of the wheel well.
apbtrock Nov 11th, 06, 05:08 PM I also did this within the past week, 2 inch drop springs from hotchkis. It was simply a matter of setting them in the control arms, seating them correctly, and jacking up the lower control arm just a hair. They didnt need to move much at all, set the springs next to your stock ones and you'll see they are probably 4-5'' shorter, although they are much stiffer, so once compressed should come out to only a 2'' diffrence.
mnm99 Nov 11th, 06, 05:22 PM I also did this within the past week, 2 inch drop springs from hotchkis. It was simply a matter of setting them in the control arms, seating them correctly, and jacking up the lower control arm just a hair. They didnt need to move much at all, set the springs next to your stock ones and you'll see they are probably 4-5'' shorter, although they are much stiffer, so once compressed should come out to only a 2'' diffrence.
Thats what I thought. I didn't do them side by side yet but I remember the hotchkis being alot shorter than these!
mnm99 Nov 12th, 06, 05:32 PM All is ok guys... Came out safe. no lost limbs....I removed all the bushings with the air chissel no problem without touching the arms. I bought all bushings and ball joints and just noticed the lower ball joints are spot welded in in 4 spots!!! I would guess they went in loose when the last owner had it and just spot welded them to hold them in. There not MOOG but the are pretty new and tight. I'm just going to leave those two and replace everything else. I don't want to open a can of worms.
tgifford5 Nov 13th, 06, 07:46 AM I also did this within the past week, 2 inch drop springs from hotchkis. It was simply a matter of setting them in the control arms, seating them correctly, and jacking up the lower control arm just a hair. They didnt need to move much at all, set the springs next to your stock ones and you'll see they are probably 4-5'' shorter, although they are much stiffer, so once compressed should come out to only a 2'' diffrence.
I have a question regarding, seating the spring correctly. How do you know that you have done this, what is the correct procedure? I am finishing up pulling off my A arms/tie rods/ball joints etc. as I am replacing all the bushings and such. I have not decided whether or not to change out the springs, but will need to replace the springs and want to do it right. I have been using alot of your tech tips and everything has been so much easier to do. Thanks!
apbtrock Nov 13th, 06, 01:37 PM The end of the coil, will correspond with a indent in the control arms pockets. Rotate it until you feel it "drop" in, and seat correctly. Make sure it doesnt twist out before its set in place for good ;). This is a very simple thing to do, most people just dont think about it mattering how the spring is rotated, and consequently, install their springs incorrectly. If you dont have any extra springs or control arms, or a vehicle to look off for reference, dont worry about it....its very simple to see when the spring is out. Dive in, its not nearly as complicated as you'd think ;)
Best of luck... and maybe someone else will have pictures to show you. I have an old spring laying around, but no photos of the inside of the control arms, which is what you'll need to see.
Lucky68 Nov 13th, 06, 05:32 PM This can be a bit tricky trying to get both the top and bottom spring to index correctly. I postioned my floor jack under the lower control arm. Then inserted the spring into the subframe looking up from underneath. I turned the spring until it was indexed. Then jacked up the lower control arm until there was slight pressure on the spring. Once you get there you can fine tune the spring so it will index with both the upper and lower positions. After that, it's just the matter of compressing the spring enough to get the ball joint attached. You might want to use a spring compressor and a chain for safety if you are installing standard height springs. It wasnt' needed with the Hotchkis drop springs.
dukemd66 Nov 13th, 06, 09:58 PM I did this a couple years ago and if I remember there is a "sight hole" on the top arm. Twist the coil until you see it sitting nicely in this hole. If the arm is not on the SF play with the spring and arm and you will understand what I am saying.
Rick
tgifford5 Nov 14th, 06, 08:06 AM Thanks guys I have the front all pulled apart and just waiting for my poly bushings and eibach springs to arrive. Just wanted to make sure I installed everything properly. Didn't want to go back and redo something that I should have done the first time. Thanks!
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