mnm99
Nov 16th, 06, 05:46 PM
Putting together my spindles after paint and powder coat. Should I loc-tite all the bolts? Anyone know what the torque specs are also?
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View Full Version : Should I Loc-tite all suspension parts? mnm99 Nov 16th, 06, 05:46 PM Putting together my spindles after paint and powder coat. Should I loc-tite all the bolts? Anyone know what the torque specs are also? dmundell68 Nov 16th, 06, 09:15 PM I asked this same question and was told no not a good idea. As far as torque specs go I have them written down somewhere if someone does'nt chime in I will get them for you. HwyStarJoe Nov 17th, 06, 04:41 AM This is from one of our moderators - David Pozzi. Check out his web site and you'll find tons of good info: http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm I just found some torque specs: CAMARO SUSPENSION BOLT TORQUES All are in foot pounds-ft Steering gear mounting bolts-70 ft Pitman Shaft Nut 140 ft Steering Wheel nut 35 ft " with tilt 1 ft Steer coupling nut 18 ft Steering coup clamp bolts 30 ft Tie Rod End nut 35 ft Tie Rod Clamp nut 130 ft (correction, 130 INCH lbs) Ball joint nut upper 50 ft Ball joint nut lower 80 ft Upper ball joint attach bolts (replacement) 25 ft Steering arm attach nuts 85 ft Lower control arm 85 ft Upper control arm 50 ft Collar bolts 45 ft Brake anchor pin (drum) 130 ft Brake anchor bolt (disc) 75 ft Wheel stud nuts 65 ft David Silver69Camaro Nov 17th, 06, 10:20 AM I asked this same question and was told no not a good idea. Any idea why? I can't think of a bad reason to use a medium strength type locker. mnm99 Nov 17th, 06, 06:52 PM Any idea why? I can't think of a bad reason to use a medium strength type locker. I don't understand why either? I put my spindles together tonight with the correct TQ spects and a dab of loc-tight anyway. I'm not going to put it on the ball joints and stuff like that though. BlackoutSteve Nov 17th, 06, 09:20 PM Because the whole idea of torquing to spec provides enough clamping force to stretch the fasteners and create enough friction in the threads and bearing surface of the bolt head or nut to stop them loosening. Sure, you can Loctite them, but why? Millions of cars on the road and no Loctite anywhere. Any fastener safety measures are taken care of at the factory with locking washers or crimped locking nuts. Also, regular Loctite might be useless with the heat of the brakes tranfering through them. JimM Nov 17th, 06, 09:57 PM Tie rod clamp bolts 130 ??? Is that a typo? s/b 30 IK think. RamAirDave Nov 17th, 06, 10:16 PM Suspension parts are either press fit (ball joints and bushings), use locking nuts, and/or cotter pins, so Loc-Tite isnt necessary. HwyStarJoe Nov 18th, 06, 07:33 AM Yeah Jim, ya want them babaies TIGHT! sfcamero69 Nov 18th, 06, 09:27 AM Tie rod clamp bolts 130 ??? Is that a typo? s/b 30 IK think. correct that should be in-lbs, David's site has the correct number http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm#Bolt%20torque%20specs Strick Nov 18th, 06, 10:32 AM On dirtbikes, we loctite nearly everything. I would not think that a spot of 'blue' loctite on any suspension bolt is a bad thing. Bolts that size would normally take 'red'. I will be replacing my entire suspension with the next couple of months and will probably use a drop of blue on every bolt. davidpozzi Nov 18th, 06, 03:15 PM I don't see a problem with using locktite but it probably isn't going to help anything since GM screwed together millions of cars without it and there hasn't been any problems. It could cause problems removing balljoint nuts, the stud would just spin around. To convert inch lbs to ft lbs, divide by 12, so 130 inch lbs is 10.8 ft lbs. David |