My 1969 Camaro was originally a L-6 car. Somewhere down the line a V-8 was dropped in it.
The problem is that there really isn't any height to the accelerator pedal.
Doesn't seem to be as high as most pedals in cars.
Is there a different linkage for the pedal to the carb linkage on a 6 cyl to a V-8?
The car runs great, but I think that the vacuum 4s on the 600 cfm Holley aren't able to open up.
The pedal is I would guess about 2-3 inches off the floorboard or so. (Just a guesstimate.)
There is nothing in the way as far as hoses or wires to keep the pedal from moving freely.
ANY suggestions or comments is greatly appreciated. I know my car has so much more potential, but there just doesn't seem to be enough pedal for it.....seems like we all have this problem :D
Thanks

V8 cars used a rod and lever, solid linkage. 6's had a cable. Sounds likely that your original cable linkage was "cobbled" to work with the V8 carb. Problem should be something to do with the bracket that anchors the fixed outer jacket of the cable near the carb.

I would bet you can find a different bracket, or a way to "cobble it" better than it is.

First things first, have a bud floor the throttle (engine off of course) while you check and see if you are actually getting wide open throttle.

I'd suggest you switch to the factory linkage, which is reproduced and readily available, but it's a beetch getting to those bolts on the firewall with the engine in the car.

To get more travel you can either move the bracket that holds the outer casing further away from the carb, or shorten the cable. Either change will raise the pedal to provide the extra travel.


TTFN
Mat

V8 solid linkage, the accelerator rod behind the pedal can bend out of shape over yrs of use and a return spring that is too heavy
Also if the clamp on the spline where the link going up from the accelerator rod on the engine side of the firewall , is not tight it will slip.
Incorrect setting of these spines can also be the problem

After I got your PM, I dug out this post of yours from August. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88798

You are still fighting this problem?

The August post has lots of good pics of T350 V8 cars with Holleys. It does appear that when your car was converted to a V8, the V8 throttle linkage was used, you have a solid rod, not a cable, so skip everything above.

Your throttle linkage "looks" fine in the pic you posted, other than that the rod is kinda tweaked, but that is something people sometimes do to shorten the rod. If you pedal rides low at idle, then you have 2 possible things wrong:

1: Where the lever attach's to the pedal assembly on the firewall is loose. I asked about this in the August post, too. Did you check it? You need to have one person in the car holding the gas pedal tight, while you wiggle the lever and make sure it's tightly attached. If it's loose, you gotta find a way to fix it. That thing is tremendously hard to get to with the motor in the car.

2: The rod is simple too long. Make damn sure #1 is ok, then make or buy a shorter rod to get the pedal at the right height. If you have to, you can make a rod out of a piece of 1/4 - all thread from the hardware store and a second screw on fitting like the one all ready on the front.

There could also be issues with clearance at the firewall. Sometimes plug wires and stuff get messy back there and prevent full travel. Note this won't effect the ht of the pedal at idle, but when you floorboard it, the lever should come all the way back, almost touching the firewall.

Your kickdown linkage does not look right. It is too loose in the pic you posted in the August post. The pin in the carb linkage should be all the way at the front (but not so tight it moves the cable) of the slot in the cable end.

It's been 20 years since I had a T350, but I think the cable is adjustable, either at the top or the bottom. Your setup looks right, it's just too loose. This is effecting your shifting.

I would disconnect the trans cable from the carb, deal with the throttle linkage first and get it right, then deal with the trans linkage.

The turbo 350 adjustment....
Hold the throttle at WOT....then pull on the cable, there should be about 1/16 to 3/16 gap left in the trans cable slot at the end.

Yeah, I am still fighting the beast. I currently am dealing with the car not running at all...
Got it running the other weekend and trying to figure out the intermittant miss that I have.
Wound it up a little too tight and got dirt in the needle seat of both primary and secondary needles. Put in a new inline fuel filter. Got it all cleaned out and ran it out of gas (I think, gauge doesn't work) so I put a little in it and she will just crank over and no fire.
Got a little perturbed and pushed her back in the garage and put it up on carpet for winter storage. Wife is hounding me to get it running lately since weather has been nice and she wants to drive it...
Linkage from pedal doesn't seem to be loose at all. I made sure there are no wires or power booster hose in the way of travel for linkage.
I have adjusted the trans linkage by holding the carb at WOT and then setting tighting up linkage where it adjusts to.
I don't know...I think I should have bought the other 69 I was looking at and not had so many damn problems. It was a complete rotissorie restore with new everything and a 4 speed. The only thing it needed was new back tires....this car is driving me nucking futs!!!:clonk:

Got car running yesterday. Checked pedal, it is tight. Has a little play in it before it actually moves pedal. I had brother-in-law check and seems like pedal is actually opening up the carb all the way.
I disconnected the linkage from carb and pushed pedal down all the way and had him open the carb up manually and it is right where it is when it is connected.
SO that is not the problem.
I am pretty sure that the timing is set right. We had a vacuum guage connected to it and set it where it had the most vacuum and then retarded it a little because we had so problem trying to start it up.
Now all you have to do is turn the key and she fires right up.
We set the carb again because the primary needle jet had some more junk in it.
Now she runs great, but still feels like the pedal is a little low.
So soon I should be able to get to the hardware to get some all thread and make a new rod.
He also said when I was pushing the pedal down I had about an inch or so before it would hit the firewall. So hopefully by making the rod longer, I should be able to get the right height.
Thanks.
If it doesn't cure it, I'm sure you'll see the post again!!!!!!!!!!

I wouldn't change the linkage... If you are getting full thottle at the carb with the pedal on the floor, then all is right, so just get used to it.

Imagine the strain if the carb was at WOT and you still had an inch left to push the pedal down!!! You'd rip the throttle arm right off the carb!

I was going to replace it just for the simple fact that it looks like crap being bent and also for the fact that the threads are damaged as well. I thought that by lengthing it, it would make the pedal higher, but I guess it would be the opposite.
Thanks for all your help and insight.

What do you suggest if the accelerator brackets on the firewall side are loose? I would love to replace the whole assembly but I don't think I can with the engine in the car--I can just get a wrench in there to tighen the bracket. Are there any tricks/suggestions?

Thanks.