Not having much luck with responses in the Performance section so I'll try here. Is it possible to remove the oil pan without pulling the whole engine or removing the Lakewood bellhousing in my 68? Anyone do it? Don't seem like I could tilt it high enough.

Thanks,
Mike

This is tough if you dont have a two piece Lakewood. Thats one reason I still have mine. Prior to I had to really raise motor up, disconnect accel linkage , remove fan shroud, dist, and let the Z bar drop. Crank also needs to be in a certain position to keep counter weights out of way, then you have to deal with flywheel or block saver plate. I cut my block saver plate to drop out along with the lower half of the Lakewood also. Good luck.

Well, I finally got it out. I pulled the engine as high as it would go untill the bellhousing hit the firewall. It still needed to go up just a couple more inches to come out. As I was under the car, I saw it was hitting the steering centerlink, so I remove the pitman arm, which allowed the centerlink to swing a couple inches toward the crossmember, which allowed the pan to drop out.
Now, installing the other pan with a longer sump might prove to be more difficult to install, I hope not.

Mike

i managed to change the pan out with my lakewood installed. i took off a stock pan and added a sumped milodon. it wasnt a fun install. i have to do it all over again too. i think the rear main is leaking.

i managed to change the pan out with my lakewood installed. i took off a stock pan and added a sumped milodon. it wasnt a fun install. i have to do it all over again too. i think the rear main is leaking.

If replacing the rear main two piece seal, you can get some added protection if you clock the main seal split points in the main cap...By that I mean offset the split about a 1/4 " off center. This keeps the seal ends incased in the cap. Do apply a dab of rtv on each end as well as the oil pan gasket ends. One piece oil pan gasket is the best. Use it if you can.

i switched to a one piece milodon pan gasket too. so far the leak is coming from the rear of the engine. the starter is wet and im getting drips off of the bottom of the bell and bottom of the oil pan. i wipped everything clean and i still get small drips that are squeezing out between the block saver and the bell. think its the rear main? i have snugged the hell out of the pan bolts which were loose after my first test drive.

Make sure you check the back of the valve covers and the back of the intake manifold , it may look like the rear main to you , put your fingers down behind the distributor and see if its wet back there .
Mark .

Make sure you check the back of the valve covers and the back of the intake manifold , it may look like the rear main to you , put your fingers down behind the distributor and see if its wet back there .
Mark .

Yes , this will happen too. Need to wipe down back of head near the valve cover rail seal...drive it and recheck. Or like Mark said, rear manifold seal also.