I replaced the ignition switch on my son's 78 firebird and the little rod that runs from the switch to the key cylinder popped off inside the steering column and I can't figure out how to get at it. I've got the steering wheel, turn signal cam, key lock etc. all pulled out but can't even see the little rod. Any suggestions? Thanks

Mark

Anybody ever rebuilt a second gen. tilt column? I've got the three giant phillips head screws out that hold the turn signal housing, but it still won't budge. I can't figure out what is holding it on. :confused:

Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

Mark

Here is a link that may help you:http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/suspension/t_steering.html
You will need a special tool called a pivot pin remover, if you have to go that far.

Thanks for the response Jeff.

I'm up to step #10 on their instructions, but the turnsignal housing won't budge. I even went so far as to give it a couple good smacks with a rubber hammer. According to what I've read, those three big screws are all that holds it. I s'pose it's just really stuck from being on there for 28 years. Maybe I just need a bigger hammer. ;)

Mark

I bought the either K&D or Lisle GM Pivot Pin Puller from Pep Boys for $10 and it pulls out the pins very well, from both sides of the pins and not just one side.

To remove the turn signal housing, make there is no tilt, and you may have to remove the pins. Be careful, as you remove the housing, it will loose locking ability to keep wheel from tilting up, I think!

... To remove the turn signal housing, make there is no tilt, and you may have to remove the pins. Be careful, as you remove the housing, it will loose locking ability to keep wheel from tilting up, I think!

Like Everett says - make sure the tilt is in an upper location to remove some of the pressure of the tilt spring.
They are a PIA at times, but just wiggle and possition things as you go to release the components - Do Not Hammer! on anything !!!
Make sure you opserve the placement of the washers and bearing pieces as you disaaaemble and get them back in the same possitions - or bad things will occure ... I usually lay the parts out on a clean rag placed in a small tray to set asside so I know how things were arranged in there - this helps when my memory 'misfires' at times ...
While you're in there, make sure you check that the 4 bolts that hold the tilt head to the column are tight. They tend to come loose over time. IF, you want to use LocTite - use only the 'Blue' or 'Purple' "Lite" flavors, the 'Red' will be very hard to get loose if it's necessary in the future.
Make sure you get the key-rack indexed correctly as you reassemble, if it's off you will not get the key to turn or the rod to travel far enough to hit the "start" contacts on the switch.
The instructions and information in the mid 70's Cadillac Service Manuals are the best source of info if you can get your hands on one. The procedure is very well explained.
I use a Snap-On GM service set that has the wheel puller, signal plate ring compressor and tilt-pin remover - makes working on them very easy - sorta ...

Here is a link to the procedure from the 'Ask the Experts' site - http://experts.about.com/q/Steering-Column-Repair-2047/89-Firebird-column.htm
Gives a good run down of the procedures.

Hope this helps;
John

Thanks for the info. guys. I'll try tilting it up. I was thinking the housing needed to be straight, pull out those three big screws and presto there ya go. I should have known there was more to it than that. I've been into this column before, when we first got the car, but not this deep. Just replaced the key cylinder and turnsignal cam last time. Thanks again for the help guys. My '20 minute' ignition switch replacement job turned ugly the minute I felt that rod pop off. :mad:

Mark

Thanks for the info. guys. I'll try tilting it up. I was thinking the housing needed to be straight, MarkNo no, no tilt as you thought earlier.........You're welcome.

Check out the info on the attached link, from TC member JIML82. Good stuff!

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=5

Now Everett, you're telling me no tilt and John is telling me to tilt it all the way up. Can't do both. :D

Maybe I should clarify exactly what I'm doing. All I need is to get the turnsignal housing off so I can re-attach the ignition switch rod to the key rack doo-dad. I don't want to get into the tilt mechanism if I don't need to. Most of the info. I've come across is for newer columns, but I don't think they would be all that different. There is a very small bolt down inside the housing, about a 6mm head, that may need to come out. I can't really tell if it's holding the housing or if it's part of the tilt. I'll get into it more tomorrow since the weather is supposed to be nice. I initially started working on it in a foot of snow a week or so ago and gave up...

Eric, I had seen those 'steering papers' before and will print them up as well as the other info. you guys have given me.

Thanks again

Mark

Now Everett, you're telling me no tilt and John is telling me to tilt it all the way up. Can't do both ...

Mark

:eek: - I did not say "tilt it all the way up" !!!
I said - "make sure the tilt is in an upper location to remove some of the pressure of the tilt spring." - as opposed to being in a lowered position.
You do not want the tilt mech in the bottom positions to work on it. Put it somewhere around the center, or a notch higher. (nearly the same thing Everett said, but noting it could be above center - slightly - that took alot of words to say again and hopefully make clear... )

It's hard to make my fingers type what I'm thinking at times - always a good thing to repost if it doesn't make sense ...

John

Thanks John. I took 'upper position' to mean let it come all the way up. I'm an 'all or nuthin' kind of guy. ;)

Mark

Found the problem. The ignition switch rack is broken where it connects to the rod that runs down to the switch. Hope the local Chevy dealer has one in stock! Thanks for the help guys.

Mark

Found the problem. The ignition switch rack is broken ...
Hope the local Chevy dealer has one in stock! .

Mark


Glad to hear you found the problem - actually, that is a very common problem. It usually starts showing up as the key being hard to turn to get to the "Start" position - then the rack breaks near the rod 'roundy' area ...

The GM part number is #7827157 (group 2.195) list price is @ $20.00, but they are around $10.00 - if your local GM guy gives you a little discount ;)
If you hit the 'Chevy' dealer and they don't have it, head on over to the local 'Caddy' parts store - they will ...
They are also available at most good parts stores that carry the Dorman/Motormite - "HELP" brand stuff - part number is #83211.

Hope this helps;
John

Those part numbers are a great help John. Thanks!

I called my local chevy dealer and the guy told me it comes as part of a kit, for $49. I was going to try and see if I could do better than that...

Mark

[edit]
Just got off the phone with one of the parts stores and they say they have one for $7.50. Sure beats a $49 'kit'. :D
Thanks for the part #'s.