Hey all,

I've been getting a lot of conflicting advice regarding priming my car. 1/2 of it is in bare metal, with bodywork almost ready to be covered with primer. Heres the deal- I want to paint it like a street rod- IE. a colored primer, until I am ready to paint it.

Heres the state of it-

Hood- old Paint Ok, just needs primer or ? over the old scuffed paint- can I use a urethane primer over the old paint (after thourough scuffing)- THEN seal it when I am ready to paint it? Ive been told no- why not!?!? (is this correct?)

Doors, Trunk Lid (top), Front Fenders- Stripped completely- w/ polyester filler and piranha putty (GREAT!) body work.

Door jambs- PARTIALLY stripped, some splotches of good, old paint ready to paint over. I would like to use the urethane primer- but my first guess is EPoxy or Etching primer, I/ve been told BOTH wont work. WTF?! Why NOT! http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

My game plan is:

1. An etching primer OR Epoxy Primer over the bare metal areas(including bare metal + body work). PRobably a Sherwin Williams or Martin Senour product. Am I on the right track? WHich would be better on the whole?

2. Urethane Primer/Surfacer (which can be colored- hence the "Street ROd" look) over the bodywork and stripped/partially stripped areas. I was told not to use primer/surfacer by one store- why the hell not when you want to cover bodywork to block sand for a "perfect panel" (most importantly)And also want to use it as a "tinted primer paint job"?!

3. Eventually scuff the primer, seal it all with sealer, then paint it.

Bottom line is I want two get two birds with one stone-

A. Prime the Metal w/ Ep. or Etch primer, and COVER that and my body work with Urethane primer surfacer.

B. Have a cool looking primer paint job

SUrely this is not out of the realm of possibility!? I know this can be done- I've seen many street rods around here in PInk, Beige, Black, Purple, YEllow PRIMER.

However, all these paint shops give different stories. I have a feeling there just trying to saddle me with products I don't need YET ( I havent reached that point- A, and B- I dont have the money YET!)

Any help would certainly be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

You are on the right track. Just use the M-S Trio/PRIME part number 8847 over the bare metal and plastic filler if you like. Then use M-S Tint/PRIME part # 5103 in one of the 28 colors and you are done. I would if I were you, apply the Tint/PRIME, block the car, then apply the Tint/PRIME again. The car will look sweet and it will be ready to scuff and paint when you want to.
The Tint/PRIME is insoluable and even has UV Protection! So it is fine to leave uncovered.


------------------
Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

MartinSR- thanks for the triple reply I figured the more the merrier!

I'll get down to NAPA and talk again to the guy who thought that I WASNT on the right track. Hopefully, he'll sell me what I want without too much more "advice"- ie. "It'll fall off after 6 mos if you do that".

Thats why I wanted your and others advice- I put much more weight in to the advice here, simply because there isn't anything being sold. I got the part numbers from the post, and will use what you say, as I have decided to go with the Martin Senour paint line.

Just as an aside, I was thinking of using the Econobody etching primer with that tintable primer, instead of the tec etch. I'll look at the data sheet, as they are all on the MS website, and see if it says anything of comaptiblity-

Thanks Again!

I have news for you. The Econo-Body etch (number 15210) is EXACTLY the same stuff that is in the can of 8847 for half as much money. Check out the MSDS sheets on the M-S web site, they are the EXACT same product!


------------------
Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick