Hey guys, I want to completely remove my rear end to tear it down and have it sand blasted then paint it, etc. My question is, where and how do I disconnect the brake lines?

I'm at work and trying to picture it in my head, is there a distribtution block over the differential? What do I do to plug it or should I bleed the whole system?

Other than that it should be just unbolting the shocks and U Bolts, is that right?

Thanks in advance!

On the driver side of the tunnel is where the main brake line couples to the rubber line that tees off to each side of the rearend. I usially just pull it apart there and put a vacumn fitting cap over the metal line to keep the fuild from drianing all over the floor.

Once you have the rearend out on the floor you can remove te rest of the brake lines easily.

I hope this helps,
Nick

Unbolt the backing plates from the axle tube and tie them to the springs and leave them for a latter project. Personally I would install the 11" backing plate and drum off of an Impala police car to get better braking than the stock 9" drum and they come detailed as new parts ready to bolt on. They are sold as kits in the back of most magazines but you can buy all the parts new at the GM parts counter if you want.


Larger Dave

Unbolt the backing plates from the axle tube and tie them to the springs and leave till for a latter project. Personally I would install the 11" backing plate and drum off of a Police car to get better braking than the stock 9" drum and they come detailed as new parts ready to bolt on.Unbolt the backing plates from the axle tube and tie them to the springs and leave till for a latter project. Personally I would install the 11" backing plate and drum off of an Impala police car to get better braking than the stock 9" drum and they come detailed as new parts ready to bolt on. They are sold as kits in the back of most magazines but you can buy all the parts new at the GM parts counter if you want.


Larger Dave

Thanks for the help guys, doesn't sound too hard.

Dave, are the 11" backing plates hard to find? And I assume the 11" drums can be had at any autoparts store?

Yes you are correct. You may think about removing the rear leaf spring bolts while you support the rear end with a floor jack. That way you can lower the leafs and just pull the rear end out with the jack. It's alot easier than trying to angle it out of the leaf springs.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/122.jpg

Yes you are correct. You may think about removing the rear leaf spring bolts while you support the rear end with a floor jack. That way you can lower the leafs and just pull the rear end out with the jack. It's alot easier than trying to angle it out of the leaf springs.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/122.jpg

Ahh, that makes a lot of sense! Thanks Dennis!

Dave, are the 11" backing plates hard to find? And I assume the 11" drums can be had at any autoparts store?

No they are advertised all the time as drum brakes kits complete and ready to install, being better than disc brakes. They aren't better at fade resistance (the disc brakes forteŽ) but for one time stopping they can not be beat. They are in the back pages of most car rags. Yes you can find the drums in any auto parts store just be sure to get the 4-3/4" bolt pattern instead of the 5" pattern most sell (they are available both ways).


Larger Dave

Ahh, sounds like a worthwhile upgrade until I can afford bigger discs for all four. I'll look into it, thanks man. If anyone happens to have a link to someone carrying it online would you mind posting? Thanks!

Edit: I assume this fits the bill?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-Rear-11-Drum-Brake-Package-for-GM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33565QQihZ010QQitemZ 200058375115QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Not sure about the later Caprice and Impala, but the late '60s and '70s Caprice and Impala had the larger truck axle bearings and brake bolt pattern. They will not bolt to the mid sized car rear ends. Check it out before you buy anything.

Freddy the ones I'm talking about are aimed at Camaro and Chevelle owners, as a poor man's brake up-grade. They use a standard small bearing backing plate, and drums drilled for the 5 on 4-3/4" bolt pattern used by cars instead of the 5 on 5" truck and "Big B-body" car pattern. The brakes shoes and wheel cylinders are the same as off the bigger cars and can be bought at any parts store as well. The only "special" part is the backing plate, and it is a standard GM part made for police cars, limos, taxi's and delivery vans.


Larger Dave

when I pulled my rear last weekend, I unbolted the front perches so I didn't have to yank the tank, then walked it out the side on a floor jack.

Can you get me some more information on these brakes? I'm building a rear end for a '69 Camaro and the owner might be interested in them. We were looking at the Ford drum brakes from Moser, but these GM brakes would be better.

They are 11" x 2" stock GM but I wil have to find an add to get more. I have them on my two cars but my cars have 5x5" axles with 1/2"x 3" Moroso wheel studs. Changed out the 9" drums for 11" diameter by 2" wide drums and the 11" dia front rotors for 12" dia rotors.

a quick search show two companies doing the same for nine inch Ford Rear ends, but I couldn't find the company offering the Chevy version.

http://www.est1946.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=208

Master Power brakes carries the 11" drum brakes $399

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=493

Master Power brakes carries the 11" drum brakes $399

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=493

Awesome, thanks Fishin!

So after snooping around some more, it looks like a Disc Brake conversion, after the new Proportioning Valve and new Master Cylinder, I'd be looking at $650 minimum compared to $400 here. Does that seem like a good investment still or should I just save up the rest and go disc?

If money is an issue right now I personally would get disc brakes on the front before I worried about upgrading the rear brakes. I think most people add rear discs more for the looks behind their bigger open wheels than for their stopping needs.

PS: watch out for the snowball effect because I see it coming already.

If money is an issue right now I personally would get disc brakes on the front before I worried about upgrading the rear brakes. I think most people add rear discs more for the looks behind their bigger open wheels than for their stopping needs.

PS: watch out for the snowball effect because I see it coming already.

Haha yeah the snowball effect is unavoidable with these cars. I already have stock disc fronts - but disc rears for the money are probably overkill - you're right.

I'll use the extra $2-300 on other goodies :yes:

Awesome, thanks Fishin!

So after snooping around some more, it looks like a Disc Brake conversion, after the new Proportioning Valve and new Master Cylinder, I'd be looking at $650 minimum compared to $400 here. Does that seem like a good investment still or should I just save up the rest and go disc?

I can get a rebuilt master cylinder for around $65 dollars and you shouldn't have to change your existing proportioining valve if you already have front disc brakes. The bias is the same front to rear, only a slight change in master cylinder diameter to improve pedal feel (it will work without it but pedal will be near the floor on a panic stop).

Larger Dave

I asked this and asked this and asked this and never have got a good answer!!!

How did GM put the FRONT 11" drum brakes on the ONE-OFF '65, Z-16, BB Chevelle???

B/c I would have went that route if I could have found a front spindle that used the 11" drums and fit our cars!! And also used the 11" rear drum conversion that is stock on say the old early to mid '60's big sedan and S/W cars and ones used by the police and for Taxis's

pdq67

Didn't they use Impala spindles on them? Go over to Team Chevelle and ask in the brake section.

I have a queston about removing the forward leafspring bracket. How to get to the bolt clips inside the chassis that the front bracket bolts to? Mine must have rusted to the bolts which are loosened but cant be removed because whatever they are screwing into keeps turning with the bolt. I cant see any way to get to the nut or clip to hold it. THere's no access from the floor pan or the top of the bracket. ANy clues would be appreciated.

I think the only way to get to it is to cut a hole from the top side. If you can cut the head off of the bolt you could remove the spring mount and probably get to the nuts.

I have a queston about removing the forward leafspring bracket. How to get to the bolt clips inside the chassis that the front bracket bolts to? Mine must have rusted to the bolts which are loosened but cant be removed because whatever they are screwing into keeps turning with the bolt. I cant see any way to get to the nut or clip to hold it. THere's no access from the floor pan or the top of the bracket. ANy clues would be appreciated.This is common, do a search for "J nuts" to read others experiences.

Do what Freddie said, cut the heads off.

dont get the nutclips from ground up (they are really body panel clips and cant be torqued to the required 30+ ft/lbs.
ace hardware has grade 5 clipnuts that I used and can be torqued to 50 ft/lbs.
there is a thread about the inferior clipnuts.
I just finished installing my new rear springs etc.
pics:
http://webpages.charter.net/harrycoon/100_0165%20(Small).JPG

An update to this thread from the OP...

I did what Dannis (Or MadMax) suggested and removed the lower shackle bolts after I had the brake line, U bolts, shocks, emergency brake cables, and traction bars disconnected and/or removed. I had the floor jack under the pumpkin and broke the springs loose one at a time from the shackles and just lowered them by hand while a buddy steadied the housing. It ended up looking just like the pic Dennis posted.

We wheeled it out with the floor jack real easy!

Now for the tear down, cleaning and powder coat :)

Thanks for the help!

Glad you got it out. Those J-nuts can be a real PITA. I usually have to cut them off with a dremel.