If we were to go the way of a correct restoration on our 67 RS/SS coupe, what would we expect to pay for a period correct L78 motor?

With being an early 67 L78 build, RS/SS and a factory fold down rear seat, this is an interesting package

Thanks :D

I have seen bare blocks go for 1500-2500, and complete engines from tired to rebuilt go for 4500-9500.

In some cases, the correct heads seem to sell for more than the block!

Generally, based on what I see, the earlier blocks sell for more (60's-69) and the 70-71's seem to sell for a little less.

Rich

Joe,

The market on L78 parts is a tough one to price but Rich is pretty much correct, it all epends on dates. A Jan-March compoenent will normally sell for les than an April-June component. The other thing is if you take your time it will cost a lot less as you keep looking for deal. The top end on the parts from what I have been seeing lately is (based on an NOR build)-

3902406 4 Bolt Block Jan-Feb date .030 or more- $1,100 to $1,500 Average is about $1,250
3811 Carb- Restored $500-$750 Average is about $600
3904391 Heads Jan-Feb Rebuilt unported $2,000 to $4,000 Pair average is about $3,200
3885069 Intake needing some work- $200-$350 Average about $275
1111170 Distributor Restored- $800-$1,350 average is about $1,100
3909879, 3909880 exhaust manifolds- $750-$1,500 pair average about $1,000
Dip Stick and tube- $50-$300 average about $150
Water Pump restored $100-$225 average about $175
Water Pump Pully (correct one)- $75-$200 average about $150
Crank Pully (Non PS correct early type)- $100-$250 average about $150
Fan Blade- $800-$1,700 average about $1,200
Fan Clutch- $500-$2,500 average $1,250
Valve covers original needing rechrome- $100-$500 average about $300

That is about the worst of it add in the things I have missed crank, rods, psitons, etc. and machine work based on the average prices expect $12,000+. If you take the time and shop around for the parts you can do much better though.

Hope this helps,

Mike

Thank you for the quick replies gentleman.

Considering our original powertrain is long gone, I have been thinking about this route for a while now.

Without the ACTUAL motor/trans, etc, I am not sure the additional cost would justify the end value of the car. It does give us some things to consider.

Any additional replies are more than welcome :cool:

Joe try racing junk (racingjunk.com) I have found some really good deals there over the years. I even found a "CE" 396/375 block for my baldwin X66 car there.

Good Luck, and as always, where's the pics? :)

Rich

Joe try racing junk (racingjunk.com) I have found some really good deals there over the years. I even found a "CE" 396/375 block for my baldwin X66 car there.

Good Luck, and as always, where's the pics? :)

Rich

Thanks Rich :D

Pics are in my sig :D
Here is the LINK (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/00gmc/Over_Anxious/)

was that car from Melvindale?

tim cyrus previous owner ?

looks familiar ...

was that car from Melvindale?

tim cyrus previous owner ?

looks familiar ...

I do not belive so.
Dad owned it until 71/72, he sold it to someone near fowlerville. That owner sold it George (last name not off the top of my head) in Southfield, Michigan. He ran a SBC in the car until 1990 or so.

The car has only a few hundred street miles on the clock, the rest are 1/4 mile at at time :D

ok, there were a lot of cars torn up for drag racing back then ...

ok, there were a lot of cars torn up for drag racing back then ...
Im sure there were. At least this one only had to have the floors replaced and the rear quarter openings masaged back in place. The rest is nice and fresh :D

I'd say if it was L78 from the factory, you will be money ahead if you put a CE or correctly dated L78 back in it.

Wow!
Joe, that'e one Niiiiccee car. I agree with unreal. Also, what are the plans, back to day2 digs, or original paint?
I really like the day2 look!

Rich

Exterior plans are to go back to the original white, maybe the vinyl top will return.

Here you go, just saw this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=290065771332&rd=1,1


This would be the one to get if it is what they say it is, IMHO,

Rich

Thanks Rich - interesting motor there. I'll keep an eye on it :D

I see he also has a 1968 motor - complete
EBAY LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-L78-396-CAMARO-MOTOR-MQ-code-375-HP-engine_W0QQitemZ290065758200QQihZ019QQcategoryZ336 15QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

I still think that the CE motor is the better way. Even though it is a 69 dated motor, it would be "more correct" than the 68 MQ coded motor with some other car's sn as it is a warrenty block. The 67 would still have been under warrenty in 69, so it would be a good match IMHO.

Good Luck!

Rich

It looks like they relisted the CE motor with a lower starting price :D

If I was a buyer on the car one day, I would put little value in the '69 CE...in fact, there was a nice '67 L78 with a '69 CE motor just recently that only bid to $42K. Go with a correctly dated '67 L78 and you will surely recoup more than you will invest in the motor in my opinion. Great car btw!

I agree Zedder. If we go the route of another L78, we will shoot for something closer for sure.

Thanks for the compliment :cool:

If I was a buyer on the car one day, I would put little value in the '69 CE...in fact, there was a nice '67 L78 with a '69 CE motor just recently that only bid to $42K. Go with a correctly dated '67 L78 and you will surely recoup more than you will invest in the motor in my opinion. Great car btw!

Are you saying that a 67 NOM L78 is "more" correct than a 69 "CE" L78 ?
The "CE" would be the L78 block the car would have gotten if the engine fried while under warranty.


Not understanding the logic on that one!

R

has anyone ever seen a 1967 CE block? I read on a Corvette site that the CE prefix was not used until 1968?

Rich, you are assuming the engine blew under warranty in 1969 only. Most of us want our cars as "correct as possible", so dated components are usually more desirable. Even when using CE components most prefer the correct casting numbers etc. When using a '69 CE in a 67 you also face issues with the PCV system etc...which carb, intake etc. do you use? On the judging feild, a '69 CE will get virtually 0 points whereas a correctly dated/casting number '67 block will get the majority of points available.

Here's a link to the car that I was referring to. I would have paid between $45K and $50k with a correctly dated '67 L78 in it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=300032075160

Joe, there were CE coded '67 302's produced.

In 67 CE engines were not stamped CE. Blocks I know had blank pads, assembled engines from what I have heard had a standard assembly stamp only such as T0503MQ with no vins.

Hmmmm...I've been aproached to buy a '67 CE 302 in the past but don't think I bothered asking for a pic of the pad as I didn't want the motor. I know Ken has one in his car that can be seen here http://www.1967z28.com/tech-info/Survivor/survivor.htm

I am expecting a call from Ken this weekend, so I'll ask him what's on the pad??? If they infact did not have the CE stamp, they would turn out to be VERY valuable!

Trying to do more research on this, I found two sources quoting different start dates for the "CE" program - one says '68, the other says '69...anyone have a definitive answer and a source?

I will never state that I know everything but everything I have read, seen and been told says that there was no CE stamps in 67. I have seen one CE stamp that was an obvious fake. I also have seen many over the counter blocks and complete engines, none with a CE just standard assembly numbers. I also currently know where there are 5 counter 4 bolt 67 406 396 blocks and each of them has a bare deck with originial broach marks.

I am always trying to learn more and more about these things and if someone knows of a CE stamped block, I wold love to see it.

Why would a bare block have an assembly code on it?

I'm still looking for a 1967 427 "351" block and have looked at few but none were CE they were either blank or had normal engine stamp with or without vin.

I was saying that bare blocks were unstamped and short/long blocks would have an assembly stamp without a vin from what I understand.

Has anyone thought about why so many CE blocks are in circulation? I wonder when the engine block, broach and assembly/vin code restampers will go commercial like this? Maybe we should replace the Carlisle bikini contest in for something more interesting at the Vintage judging building this year :)

http://www.lvri-ny.com/hymenoplasty.html

OK. Did not know there was no CE in 67. What if a 67 car was under warranty in late 68/ early 69? Would it have not gotten a CE replacement block? Thanks for the education.
Rich

Yes, it would have received a replacement with a CE code on it. There may not have been a process for stamping a CE code on a 67 and before block, but if your 67 engine needed warranty work in 68 or later that involved replacing the block it would have received a current production block with a CE code on it.