383 Stroker (10.8:1* Comp Ratio – Designed for 91 Octane)

• 292I/292E Duration .501I/.501E Lift Rough Idle 2800+ Stall (471 HP)

1. Aluminum Racing Heads (200cc Intake Runners 2.02I/1.60E)
2. Crankshaft (Scat Forged 383 Crankshaft) (Forged Crankshaft)
3. Carburetor (750 Edelbrock)
4. Distributor (HEI Distributor)
5. Manifold ( Edelbrock Performer RPM) Intake Manifold) f requested]

yes. just clean it out once in awhile. :)

? That's funny

yes. just clean it out once in awhile. :)

Like to have a little smille face that lays two black marks on shifts for this one. How about it , Moderator?

Probably, but it on the edge IMO. Be prepared to change plugs frequently.

You might want to consider a water/alcohol injection system for it that has a vacuum switch that come's on when you thump her good under load to keep her out of detonation if you think it will become a big problem as time goes on??

I say this b/c I can't see our gas getting any better now that they are tightening down the Benzene standard for what little Benzene is it it now!!

pdq67

Like to have a little smille face that lays two black marks on shifts for this one. How about it , Moderator?

Ask and you shall receive!
http://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gif

Ask and you shall receive!
http://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gifhttp://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gif


No no no. One that we all can use.:yes:

No no no. One that we all can use.:yes:
dang. Im good.

Make sure you use forged pistons, not cast, not hypers.

No no no. One that we all can use.:yes:

Anyone can use it. Quote me and copy paste the link to the smilie into your own post ;) It's on my website but you can link to it like I did.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gif

You might want to consider a water/alcohol injection system for it that has a vacuum switch that come's on when you thump her good under load to keep her out of detonation if you think it will become a big problem as time goes on??

I say this b/c I can't see our gas getting any better now that they are tightening down the Benzene standard for what little Benzene is it it now!!

pdq67

Not sure I understand water injection. Years ago I did volunteer work at an air museum very briefly. I saw some of the old war birds that ran supercharged motors used water injection.
This helps keep detonation down?

How?

And while we're on this subject, how hard are they to install? Cuz for me, detonation is a concern.

Probably, but it on the edge IMO. Be prepared to change plugs frequently.

What is it about this engine that makes you have to change plugs frequently? Will hotter plugs reduce the frequency of these changes? Does it need a WOT blast during just about every drive?
I ask because I am experiencing these same symptoms. After about 4 drives totaling ~ 100 miles I need to change the plugs again. I have driven the car fast, but have not yet floored the throttle. Until I finish the installation of the interior, which adds weight to the car, I have not yet aligned the front end. The car drives a little squirrely with the misaligned front end and I take it relatively easy.

Thanks,
Andrew

Water/alcohol mist cools the air fuel charge and drops the flame temp. b/c it takes energy to turn the mist into vapor, thus taking energy away from the combustion process.

That and alcohol has a high octane number which also helps.

pdq67

PS., and fwiw, people are finding out that you can run upwards to 55 percent water in diesels to lower NOx and particulate matter emissions... In otherwards, you use more water than you do diesel sorta deal.........

What is it about this engine that makes you have to change plugs frequently? Will hotter plugs reduce the frequency of these changes? Does it need a WOT blast during just about every drive?
I ask because I am experiencing these same symptoms. After about 4 drives totaling ~ 100 miles I need to change the plugs again. I have driven the car fast, but have not yet floored the throttle. Until I finish the installation of the interior, which adds weight to the car, I have not yet aligned the front end. The car drives a little squirrely with the misaligned front end and I take it relatively easy.

Thanks,
Andrew

Long duration cams can be difficult to tune for low speed street driving. If you're fouling plugs you need to lean out the carb as much as possible. It can be done. The cam in my car is 264/274 @ .050 with 106 LSA. I drove it every day for several years with this setup and would only change plugs once a year or about 3,000 miles.

Yes, reversion and poor burn characteristics at low RPM. Sometimes you can "tune through it" somewhat but it will not burn clean at idle and low RPM cruise. This is hard on plugs -- hotter plugs won't help as much as the "right plugs". I would use an extended tip plug like the Autolight 3924

IMO it is no big deal to change plugs in a weekend warrior a couple times a season, but in a daily driver a couple times a season can turn into once a month (or week). A good ignition like an MSD can help out with this somewhat.

Anyone can use it. Quote me and copy paste the link to the smilie into your own post ;) It's on my website but you can link to it like I did.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/misc_images/smilies/3gears.gif

Hey Mark!, that you sideways again in third?

Thanks Chris,, whats it called ? :threegears: ?

My cam is a .54/.562 lift and 294/300 duration. It loves to accelerate, but doesn't seem to like just cruising below 2,200 RPM. After playing with it for a while I might have the tone it down a little.
Today I removed the AC R44T plugs and replaced them with R45T plugs per JohnZ's recommendations. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70578&highlight=302+spark+plugs I hope these hotter plugs solve the problem. I may also lean out the carb some too.

Also make sure you have the proper power valve if running a Holley carb. Check you vacum at the base of the carb and use a power valve that is 1 to 2 inches lower setting. For example I had a 12:1 SBC with the -140 off road 302 solid cam and a Yunick crossram recently. Even at 900-1000 rpm idle speed it only produced 6 inches of vacum. The DZ carb had a 6.5 inch power valve which meant that it was open at idle. It would burn your eyes if you stood behind this car idling. A lower setting power valve, 4.5 took care of the problem. The -140 definitely has some crazy valve timing, but so do a lot of the other rough idling cams.

I'll have to check out the power valve, thanks for the suggestion. I don't have gasoline smells when idling and the power brakes work well all the time, so perhaps it's okay.
One more question please: Can I clean and re-gap the R44T plugs that were removed and then use them again? Or are they "dead"? They don't appear to be fouled out, just damp with a gasoline smelling liquid. What makes a plug dead?
I remember my dad removing the spark plugs from the '59 Rambler station wagon. (It was a black 2-door and would make a great hot rod these days) He would sand off the crap, reset the gap, and put them back in the straight-6 engine. I know it's two very different engines but I don't want to buy new plugs every month if I have an another option.
It may not even be a question if my new R45T plugs burn cleaner.

Plugs are "dead" when they start to misfire. Its hard to tell by looking at them. They can look OK and not run well, or vice-versa. You can definately spot a fouled plug, but just be careful not to assume a plug is OK because it looks OK. You can clean and re-run plugs but I personally have not had any luck with this.

I'd also like to add that the correct power valve is important, but it will not effect your idle. A power valve only adds fuel to the main well when you are running on the main circuit.

The old DX Gas Station had a little sand-blast gizmo that we'd stick fouled plugs in, then clean them off using an air blast and finally sprayed with Benzene.

Worked fine as long as a plug wasn't shorted.

Done it many times as a kid..

pdq67

Thanks for all the info. One more question. What stall converter would you go with. I have a 700r trans and the builder suggested 3000 and above. Any ideas?

I was a doubter about water injection 20 years ago...I was a dumb ass and tried to run 10lbs of boost on a 10:1 compression engine and pump gas. It rattled like a spray can. I put on water injection and was able to dial in lots of timing with this total mismatch and it ran perfectly for years on pump gas w/o a hint of detonation. I was a beleiver! I was a kid and it was a daily driver, and I only had to fill the water once a week. However, don't EVER forget to fill the water! ..or kaboom. For more sensible engines, it provides a safety margin for the occasional bad tank of gas.

Yes, run it. I have ran way more radical engines on the street with no problems:D They even ran clean at low speed and traffic situations. Everything has to be matched, thats the key!