Hello, after some problems with my heads on my 327 engine ( http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89421 ), I also opened the crankcase and found that the crank was also bad, so I decided to build a 383 with the advises and help of a friend.
So I bought a 383 crank from Speed-O-Motive (the only place where I could find a small journal strocker, with 5.7 rods ans Keith-Black 197 Hypereutectic pistons (12cc dish), 62cc trick Flow 195 heads. here are some pictures:

The parts as I received them:
http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/pieces/_ICT2607-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/pieces/_ICT2624-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/pieces/_ICT2626-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/pieces/_ICT2635-960x528.jpg


Then after someporting and polishing on the heads and block notching:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT2642-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT2643-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT2645-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT2649-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT2664-960x528.jpg

Guillaume

Now the block is painted, the cam is installed,

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3050-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3052-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3051-960x528.jpg

Polishing of the oil gallery:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3053-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3054-960x528.jpg

The pistons after removing the sharp edges:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3063-960x528.jpg

I have removed some aluminium on the combustion chamber near the exhaust valve seat to help the gas exit:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3056-960x528.jpg

Polished exhaust ports:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3061-960x528.jpg

The intake with the carb:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3066-960x528.jpg

And the vintage Edelbrock valve covers:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3071-960x528.jpg

My friend advised me to buy the Crane H-278-2, 222°-234°, 0.467-0.494" lift but the shop couldn't get cams from Crane, they told me they don't manage to contact them.
So it will be a Comp cam XE268H 224°-230°, 0.48" lift. I hope it will run as good as the Crane.

For the transmission, for the moment I will keep my powerglide with stock converter and 2.73 gears.

regards

Guillaume

You need a converter and a TH350 and a lower rear gear bad.Engine looks great but it is not going to like that glide. and 2.73 gears.

Won't the engine have enoyght torque to pull the car with these gears?
Or is the cam too big for the stock convertor and gears?

I already find that the 327 was running great, so with the 383 and twice as much power, it should be enough. The next step will be the transmission.

I will first drive it like that and see later if I manage to find a th 350 (in France it is not so easy :-)

Guillaume

It will work just not as well as it could.

Why don't you take that 327 vent can out and plug that hole?

You'll also want to drill out this cooling hole:

http://home.comcast.net/~onovakind67/coolanthole.jpg

You need a converter and a TH350 and a lower rear gear bad.Engine looks great but it is not going to like that glide. and 2.73 gears.
no cam likes these gears without alots converter

Why don't you take that 327 vent can out and plug that hole?
What is the advantage of plugging this hole? Should I then plug the line that went from here to the carb to one valve cover with a PCV valve?

onovakind67:
Don't we only need to drill that hole for 400 blocs with siamesed cylinders? Will it improve cooling orreliability? What size should I drill it? same as the others?

I think I will have to change at least the converter if every-body say it.

Thank for your advises.

Guillaume

onovakind67:
Don't we only need to drill that hole for 400 blocs with siamesed cylinders? Will it improve cooling orreliability? What size should I drill it? same as the others?


If it was about the siamesed cylinders, there would be a hole between each set of cylinders. The reason for the extra hole is to cool the siamesed exhaust ports, whether or not it's a 400. There's a reason that Fel-Pro puts the holes where they do and makes them the size that they do. Just drill it the same size as the hole in the gasket.

[QUOTE=gui67;696632]What is the advantage of plugging this hole? Should I then plug the line that went from here to the carb to one valve cover with a PCV valve?

The lifter valley vent can is a baffle as well as a crank vent to the outside of motor. That hole near the dist is the hole where the old breather tube went, long ago. If you look down into the hole , you will see some threads, 1/4 x 20. Sometimes it gets in the way.. If you plug only the outside hole, you need to run some type of crank breather back to the air clearner and or a pvc valve from carb to cover. I have never plugged the one where the can went. From the looks of your vintage Edle valve cover , you have a hole to place a pvc grommet in for a air cleaner breathe tube . If you have a hole in the other vc like this, you can put the pvc in it. The old tube was for crank vent. Just matter of cleaning up the engine compartment. I can't recall seeing one on a First Gen, only the older 60's cars and trucks. A suitable size freeze plug will work . BTW, Nice crank. What cc's are in your pistons valve relief? Uh, nice heads too.

If it was about the siamesed cylinders, there would be a hole between each set of cylinders. The reason for the extra hole is to cool the siamesed exhaust ports, whether or not it's a 400. There's a reason that Fel-Pro puts the holes where they do and makes them the size that they do. Just drill it the same size as the hole in the gasket.

OK, Thank you, I now understand ,It is certainly the hottest part of the cytlinder head between the 2 exhaust valves.



The lifter valley vent can is a baffle as well as a crank vent to the outside of motor. That hole near the dist is the hole where the old breather tube went, long ago. If you look down into the hole , you will see some threads, 1/4 x 20. Sometimes it gets in the way.. If you plug only the outside hole, you need to run some type of crank breather back to the air clearner and or a pvc valve from carb to cover. I have never plugged the one where the can went. From the looks of your vintage Edle valve cover , you have a hole to place a pvc grommet in for a air cleaner breathe tube . If you have a hole in the other vc like this, you can put the pvc in it. The old tube was for crank vent. Just matter of cleaning up the engine compartment. I can't recall seeing one on a First Gen, only the older 60's cars and trucks. A suitable size freeze plug will work . BTW, Nice crank. What cc's are in your pistons valve relief? Uh, nice heads too.

For the moment, I had the original intake with crank vent in the front, valve covers with no hole and the crankase ventilationon the back with a PCV valve that went to the base of the carb.

Now, I will change the Intake and I won't have any oil fill tube or ventilation.
So I have one oil fill hole on the valve cover, there are 2 other holes, I put a breather on one side, and on the other, a PCV valve and I plug it again to the base of the carb.
And I plug the hole on the back of the blockwith a freeze plug.
Am I right?

Guillaume

Very nice looking, I'd say you have a great setup there.



Is that the stock q-jet carburetor from the old 327?

Does it have any work done to it?

It will work, but you would definitely benefit from a new or rebuilt Edelbrock or Holley carb.

Another reason to remove and plug the original vent system is that the intake will probably not fit on with the oil separator in the valley.

I would also keep the Q-jet and rebuild it since you have a manifold made just for it.

Very nice looking, I'd say you have a great setup there.



Is that the stock q-jet carburetor from the old 327?

Does it have any work done to it?

It will work, but you would definitely benefit from a new or rebuilt Edelbrock or Holley carb.

Yes it is the old Quadrajet rebuilt with new gaskets.
I will have the motor tuned on a bench with a O2 sensor to set the needles and jets. It should be enough don't you think?

Which stall should I choose for the convertor with this cam? how much is the stock powerglide converter?

Guillaume

There is more than one way to vent a small block Chevy. I see that your Edelbrock valve covers don’t have any baffles. You could have a problem with your PCV valve sucking up oil if you place it one of those valve cover holes.

All small block 67’s had the vent hole in the back of the block. The hole disappeared in 1968 when the valve covers got vent holes. That can in your lifter valley is an efficient baffle and will prevent oil from getting sucked into the PCV valve.

I placed a 1¼” grommet in the hole and pushed in a PCV valve. I also drilled my Performer RPM manifold to accept an oil fill tube with a vented cap.

You could place the PCV valve in the hole in the block like I did. Instead of drilling the intake manifold you can place breather caps on both valve covers.


http://geocities.com/sdampier@sbcglobal.net/Team_Camaro/PCV_1.jpg

http://geocities.com/sdampier@sbcglobal.net/Team_Camaro/PCV_4.jpg

http://geocities.com/sdampier@sbcglobal.net/Team_Camaro/PCV_5.jpg

Will a torque converter for a pg work on a th350 also. if not then I would wait on the converter purchase because it sounds like you are considering a trans change in the near future. May save you some money. - Rob

Farm Boy...why in the world are you using a plastic line on your oil pressure guage? Not the thing to use. Yes on the converter you just have to specify to the conver company which input shaft you are using. it is common for guys running a PG to use a turbo input shaft.

The old quadrajet will work...but a new carb would work better.


It's like buying a brand new car, but then heading to the junkyard to pickup a 30 year old set of tires. Yes these old tires will work, but they aren't the best choice.

It seems that you have put a good amount of money and effort into the car so far, your kind of selling yourself short by putting the tired, old carburetor on there.

It's just my personal opinion, I am really not sure what others on this board would say.

TH350 and a stock PG use different converters.You can change the input shaft on a glide to use a TH350 converter but if you are changing to a TH350 later it would be a waste of money.Run the glide like it is and swap in a TH350 later.A 2400 converter and some 3.42 gears with the TH350 would be a good setup.

I thought I was clear about changing input shafts...maybe not! You cant say what converter the man needs without knowing a lot of info. You just dont buy a converter because of what it stalls or flashes at wide open throttle! BTE would be the best converter company to deal with for a hot street application. They will ask weight of the car,rear gear ratio,tire size,cam specs and so on. Talk to Neal at BTE. I am sure he still is employed there.

.

.

It does not cost one dime more for a converter to be built to the correct specs instead of buying one from a catalog that isnt close to optimize your combo anyway. If you cant afford a little better conver just buy a stock Vega converter it will work fine in a everyday car to go get a gal. of milk and a loaf of bread. I didnt tell him when to buy a converter but just the correct way and the best bang for your buck. Shipping is inexpensive if you know how to do it and know how to declare what you are sending. I just sent a set of Dart/Buick alum. heads and a sheetmetal intake to a friend in Sweden cost him less than a 100 bucks by the post office! Takes 10 days.... He may be better off in the end leaving the glide in it and using a turbo input shaft. He can use a stock 1.76 low gear or use a stock 1.82 low gear that came in 6 cyl. equipped cars and 95% of them were air cooled glides. Dont recomend the 1.82 gearset for a car with slicks that is going to be raced on well prepped track. The 1.82 wont take much hp. Then again the stock 1.76 will take a ton of abuse. Actually it is better to use a Metric 200 over a turbo 350. The 200 can be made to last much longer under a heavy duty application. Takes much less hp to turn a metric 200 as well. The 200 has turned out to be a very good hi-perf. application trans.

.

.

You dont know how to build a glide if you think for one minute a 350 is better. I know plenty of people that have a hard time keeping high gear in a 350. I dont know why your friend cant keep a 200 running correctly. I know guys that put well over 400 passes on one in stockers and super stock cars without a problem. Maybe its the builder! if you need some tips on keeping a 200 tip top call Scott McClay 661-822-8209 I dont know of anyone that has had a problem using a stock Vega converter for a mild street driven car. Can you expell on your problems you may have had. What was your car and combination? Please tell me why a 350 is better than a glide? You never see a 350 in any cars that run consistently and with no problems. I can tell you 90% of all race cars use a glide. Not a bad percentage for a trans that is not as good as turbo 350....

.

I am seeing now what you have as for vents on rear, think I jumped gun on this, Your set up looks stock so my guess now is to leave it? Is that what you want to do or go forward and remove the front oil vent/fill and rear pvc?

He is running an RPM intake.

OK,

Now, I will change the Intake and I won't have any oil fill tube or ventilation.
So I have one oil fill hole on the valve cover, there are 2 other holes, I put a breather on one side, and on the other, a PCV valve and I plug it again to the base of the carb.
And I plug the hole on the back of the blockwith a freeze plug.
Am I right?

Guillaume

Yes

You never see a 350 in any cars that run consistently and with no problems. I can tell you 90% of all race cars use a glide. Not a bad percentage for a trans that is not as good as turbo 350....

Not around here . . . TH350's are in all kinds of consistent cars with no problems (including mine).

It is pretty common knowledge that a 3 speed will run faster than a glide in most heavy car applications -- especially in 3500 lb street cars with tight converters and street gears.

Not trying to start anything with you Frank, just reminding you that there are a lot of street/strip cars on this board. Not many super-stockers and dedicated race cars.

I kinda like the original 67 and older vent system, and it's a peice of cake to put the hole in the front of the intake.

Plum...I dont run a 350 turbo. If you knew anything about drag racing especially pro Stock you would know that those cars do not use a P/G or anyother automatic trans! How do you figure a 3 speed is better for the street? Afterall what is the final gear ratio of all the transmissions being talked about. Besides a race track of any kind is a good way to judge what works and what doesnt and how much abuse a part will or component will withstand....right? I tell you what I know i can make a car faster and more consistent with a glide. In other words I can take a car and run it with a glide and a 350 and I bet you it will be faster with the glide! That fact has been proven. If you have a 3700 lb car plus it may be a differnt story as you need to get the car moving faster with the lower 1st. gear ratio. If you wont take my word for it there is a man in your part of the country by the name of Richard Godley. He owns Godley transmissions. Ask him. he is real close to where you live. a 350 has a very soft 2-3 shift and that is just the way they are. They are not real good on high gear clutches.

.

.

It is faster and until you can prove to me it isnt your statements are unfounded. I said in a 3700 lb. car because of the low gear ratio. Who has a 3700 lb. that you are comparing what I say to? People dont use a glide in heavy cars like that and they dont use a 350 either!!! Its a metric 200.

People dont use a glide in heavy cars like that and they dont use a 350 either!!! Its a metric 200.Not to add kindling to the fire, but gui67 lives in France, gas is $5-$6 USD/gal. He may want to run a 'Glide to get to THE high gear faster and with less revving of the engine through the gears to save fuel.

Two gear changes uses less fuel than three gear changes. Then again, his budget may not allow for quick changes so short in time. Engine this year, trans next year, etc.

Gui67 sorry to have gotten into this in your thread.Great engine have fun with it.I am going to be the bigger person and shutup.

Plum...I dont run a 350 turbo. If you knew anything about drag racing especially pro Stock you would know that those cars do not use a P/G or anyother automatic trans! How do you figure a 3 speed is better for the street? Afterall what is the final gear ratio of all the transmissions being talked about. Besides a race track of any kind is a good way to judge what works and what doesnt and how much abuse a part will or component will withstand....right? I tell you what I know i can make a car faster and more consistent with a glide. In other words I can take a car and run it with a glide and a 350 and I bet you it will be faster with the glide! That fact has been proven. If you have a 3700 lb car plus it may be a differnt story as you need to get the car moving faster with the lower 1st. gear ratio. If you wont take my word for it there is a man in your part of the country by the name of Richard Godley. He owns Godley transmissions. Ask him. he is real close to where you live. a 350 has a very soft 2-3 shift and that is just the way they are. They are not real good on high gear clutches.


I hate to start stuff here, but it is very trivial to "prove" that a TH350 is better in a street application...

1. We can assume GM is a knowledgeable car manufacturer.

2. From #1 we can infer that they will always put the "best" parts they have available into their cars (within a certain $$ range)

2. It is a known fact that TH350's appeared in trucks until the 1980's (maybe even the 90's I dunno).

3. Powerglide transmissions were phased out in the 1970's.


Therefore because TH350's appeared in later model years, they are "better" transmissions for the street.

I kinda like the original 67 and older vent system, and it's a peice of cake to put the hole in the front of the intake.

The problem is that I have 2 holes in the valve covers, I don't know how to plug them.

Not to add kindling to the fire, but gui67 lives in France, gas is $5-$6 USD/gal. He may want to run a 'Glide to get to THE high gear faster and with less revving of the engine through the gears to save fuel.

Two gear changes uses less fuel than three gear changes. Then again, his budget may not allow for quick changes so short in time. Engine this year, trans next year, etc.

I run the glide because it is what was in the car when built, and I don't think it is a bad transmission.
If I really wanted not to spend money on gas, I would not drive a Camaro, and build a 383, it is only a weekend car.

For the moment, I keep it as it is, first the engine, I drive like this for a moment, and next winter, we will see if a transmission swap is necessary or not.

FRANK ESKRA:
What do you call a metric 200, is it a th200R4? or another transmission.

I checked the pushrod length, it will be 7.75", a bit shorter than stock:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3075-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3076-960x528.jpg

Can someone help me with spark plug length? I put the header on the motor and don't have a lot of space between spark plug and header (5mm). I tried with NGK FR5 plugs. I still manage to put the cable, and the boot doesn't touch the header, but it is tight.
I understood that Bosch are the shortest ones, are they really shorter than NGK or are Autolite AR 3924 shorter? I was thinking about using Bosch fr7dc.
Guillaume

I was gonna say Accell but from the looks of your head , you use the same type plug as I do on the AFR heads, I am using the Bosh 7557 Super. I have used the Fr8dc plug. I don't have clearance issues but you are worried, can you put a heat wrap sleeve on it? Long red tubes from Msd?

Good rocker arm tip pattern. Looks like you run spring wear cups too.

Gui67,
I am looking at the same idea of building a stroker 327. Which SB kit did you buy from Speed-O-Motive and did it all fit ok in your small journal 327 block?
Thank you,
Steve M.

Gui67,
I am looking at the same idea of building a stroker 327. Which SB kit did you buy from Speed-O-Motive and did it all fit ok in your small journal 327 block?
Thank you,
Steve M.
I think they only have one strocker kit,
It fit very good, I had to notch the block for the rod bolts, the rods came grinded for the cam clearance.

The engine now runs, 5.9s for 0-60mph, 13.8s for 1/4mile, measured with a Gtec.
The car is very powerfull, the tire spin at start even with the powerglide and the 2.73 gear. It is a completely new car, but I will have to improve suspensions, it begins to be dangerous with my old shocks and bushings.

here are some pictures:
http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/DSCN0575-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3136-960x528.jpg

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/moteur/_ICT3133-960x528.jpg

Guillaume

very nice! i love a clean engine compartment. what is that tag above the heater box?

Nice!

very nice! i love a clean engine compartment. what is that tag above the heater box?Export tag, er, European VIN tag.

Export tag, er, European VIN tag.

It is the tag from General Motors France, with the different information needed for homologation, Weight, VIN...

I still have to arrange all the cables, it is not so tidy.

Guillaume

I had my car dynoed yesterday.
We changed the timing and the secondary rods: less advance and leaner, the car came with 310DIN HP and after tuning: 330DIN HP:

http://g.scheidt.free.fr/camaro/BancCamaro383.jpg

Power is on the right side, and torque on the left side in N.m

Here is a small video:
video (http://images.photomania.com/videoview_flv.asp?login=x_x28032007_J0Y0A&photo=radF6194.flv&album=1)

The carb is the stock Quadrajet.

Guillaume

Were those numbers with the stock air cleaner installed?

No, without the air filter.
But there should not be any difference, I compared with and without on the Gtech, there was no difference.

Guillaume,

Vous moteur 330HP....C'est si bon! Vous voiture...Superkool!

A bientot

CurtiSS 69

Nice car Gui. Good job.
I don't have either a glide or a 350, so I guess I'm kinda impartial.
Glides use an estimated 30 to 40 less horsepower than TH. That's why racer's use them. Due to straight cut vs helical gears.
That's all we are about, power and application thereof.
You have different objectives and looks of things you know how to get where you want.

.

Tim
412 SBC no juice or trannybrake
TH400 reverse manual
10.85/126 mph

Guillaume,

Vous moteur 330HP....C'est si bon! Vous voiture...Superkool!

A bientot

CurtiSS 69
Merci CurtiSS.
Thank you for trying speaking French

Nice car Gui. Good job.
I don't have either a glide or a 350, so I guess I'm kinda impartial.
Glides use an estimated 30 to 40 less horsepower than TH. That's why racer's use them. Due to straight cut vs helical gears.
That's all we are about, power and application thereof.
You have different objectives and looks of things you know how to get where you want.

.

Tim
412 SBC no juice or trannybrake
TH400 reverse manual
10.85/126 mph

Tim, I knew that TH400 had a lot of losses compared to the 350, but I didn't knew that the powerglide still had less.
For the moment it is enough, I don't need a shorter gear or a 350 instead of the powerglide, tires already spinn when even with the 2.73 and positraction.

Just a little question.
Do you keep the kickdown with modified engines, I am a bit affraid that if the kick down decides to go in first gear in a curve, I would loose the control of the car because of the torqur comming and wheel spin.
And when I remove kick down, I have to change gear manually and keep an eye on the tach instead of the road.

Is there a way to modify the kick down to change the RPM at which it passes from first to second at WOT and to disable it when you don't want it to engage?

Guillaume

Glides use an estimated 30 to 40 less horsepower than TH. That's why racer's use them. Due to straight cut vs helical gears.

Wolf, are you sure all powerglide have straight cut gears?
I saw some aftermarket straight cut gears, but I thought that stock powerglide had helical gears.
Guillaume

Gui
I won't try to deceive you...I have no idea what is inside a stock glide, I have never been inside one. TH is all I've ever built. Stock tranny's don't interest me but my brother owns a tranny shop, been building tranny's since 1965 and last week he had an old iron glide in there he was doing for somebody restoring an old truck. I will ask him next time I see him, and let you know what Tony says.
The reason I know about the power consumption is that I asked the 8 second boys I play with why so many people use glides, I was told of the power consumption differences. Oh really....hmmm.
I considered it for a moment because 30 free horsepower would be sweet but I don't think losing a gear is worth it, for my small block until I give it nitrous. Then I'll give Wolf a glide and a trannybrake. 8 second small block . Merde enfant terible. I don't know what I just said, but it's all the French I have that felt like it was appropriate. In case I called you a bad name I apologize profusely in advance.

But most of the 8 second guys I know currently use TH400's,even a Ford guy I know. But there are areas in the US where everyone runs glides.
Later
Tim
77 Camaro, Wolf by name
412 SBC no juice or brake 10.85/126mph

Gui
regarding your kickdown questions.
If you are asking me if I have kickdown...No. My automatic is manual.
But you want it. In the States we call it " passing gear" and we think it is cool as hell.
Adjusting it on a glide is not something I am familiar with. I remember my Dad having me adjust our 66 Chevy Impala when I was a kid but that was too long ago to be precise.

There are folks on the board who probably know a lot more about it than me.

But if it's like a 350, you need an adjustable vaccuum modulator valve(they come with instructions and there is a small screw inside the vaccuum port that adjusts spring tension on the diaphragm inside), and a cable kickdown with an adjustable end at the carburetor.
And if it's old mecanical linkage you just adjust the length of the rod to get the characteristics you want. If I remember right, longer gives you a sooner downshift on Chevy. I seem to remember some that are backwards, maybe Dodge. It depends on whether opening the throttle pulls or pushes the kickdown lever. Yeah that's it, just watch what the rod does when you open the throttle, if you want later downshifts make the rod do the opposite of what opening the throttle does.
Tim

Gui
My brother said on a 67 glide chances are it has helical gears.
The last one he did was a 63 and it had straight cut gears.
But he says it depends on what was put back in it if it ever got rebuilt, he never knows what will be inside one regarding gear cut.
Straight cut gears are noisy. If your tranny has gear noise chances are you have straight gears.
Tim

Some news of my car.

It run 14.3s at 1/4 mile 1 month ago with stock tires and huge wheel spin.
I realized that I had to change the gearbox and the differential ratio.
I bought a 200R4 last week, and ordered a rebuild kit from TCI.
Then , I will put a 3000rpm Stall converter with lock-up and 3.73 gears.
I should then come in the low 13s with good tires I hope.

Guillaume