I want the car to be drivable as possible but still take full advantage of the motors potential.

383 Stroker (10.8:1* Comp Ratio – Designed for 91 Octane)

292I/292E Duration .501I/.501E Lift Rough Idle (471 HP)
parts liste

Aluminum Racing Heads (200cc Intake Runners 2.02I/1.60E)

Crankshaft (Scat Forged 383 Crankshaft) (Forged Crankshaft)

Carburetor (750 Edelbrock)
Distributor (MSD or Pro-Form/Mallory Pro-Curved High Performance HEI with 50,000 Volt Coil)

Manifold (Edelbrock Performer RPM)
Water Long Pump (NAPA) (Aluminum Water Pump)

Fuel Pump (Holly)

Harmonic Balancer (Pioneer 8" Harmonic Balancer with Bolt/Washer


Rods (Scat Forged Rods) (Forged Rods)

You will only get a correct answer from a representative that works for a reputable company! The sales person will ask you alot of questions and you have already answered a few of them...good luck!

After running a very similar combo I can tell you that Coan 20306 (10" 3000 stall) was about perfect for my car. Footbraked to 3200 and flashed to 4000 (when it had the flat tappet version of the same cam you are running). It was a little loose below 2000-2200 RPM but very liveable on the street IMO.

I have a 700r trans. Does that make a difference? Where can I buy that stall?

DOH! You need a different converter for the 700-R4 -- sorry about that.

Try calling Coan directly at 765.456.3957 Tell them that you are looking for a converter with a similar stall to the 20306 (TH350 or TH400 converter). Ask them what they recommend -- they may recommend something different because the 700-R4 is way different than the TH350. The 700-R4 has a much lower 1st gear and has lockup clutches inside (unless you modify the trans to run without lockup)

Ron.Can you post back what you came up with Coan?I also have a 700r4.I purchased a 2400 b&m holeshot convertor and it might as well be a stocker.Very disappointed.The 12 inch flashes around 2200 rpm behind my 427 BBC with 3.73 gears and 3260 lbs curb weight.:(

You dont have to modify the trans on a 700R4. All you have to do is disconnect the power to the high gear lock up solenoid that is inside the trans. It is a 12 volt solenoid.

What about the check ball in the end of the input shaft? All the non-lockup transmissions out there I have seen have this removed.

There are kits out there to convert lock-up to non-lock up -- there is supposedly a lube and heat issue if you do not make any modifications.

I've found that locking the converter in third gear is worth 2 tenths and 3 mph on my car.

Wow. Thanks for all the information and I will definitly post what I find out. Question. Why do I need to disconnect the high gear to my trans? I'm not interested in racing the vehicle generally but I still want a potent street car. Will I run into problems if I do not disconnect the high gear?

If you're just driving on the street, you'll want a lockup converter. One area of concern is the cruising rpm with a large overlap cam. The 700R4 wants to get into OD early and lock up at rpm's lower than your engine is willing to run smoothly at. I use a 9.5" PI Vigilante converter in my 700R4. Yank is another converter to consider.

http://www.converter.com/
http://www.converter.cc/

spoke to Coan at 765.456.3957. Walker(tech) informed me that the 2400-2600 #90315 would work best for my application. He stated that this converter is 9 incher and cost 595.00 out the door. What do you think?Should I pull the trigger?

I think you might want alittle higher stall speed,maybe in the 3200-3500 range and the car will still be very driveable on the street but will also be right at home on the track.Good Luck
Vinny

Hmmmmm . . . . seems a little tight to me too. That would probably work OK though, but it is on the tight end of what I personally would consider for your combo. If driveability is most important to you then go for it, otherwise I'd keep looking.

BTW. Talking to Yank or Vigilante is a good idea. They have a pretty good reputation with the OD stuff.

Why would that stall speed be a little "tight". Will I not get the full potential of the engine with that stall?

Will I not get the full potential of the engine with that stall?

That's correct.The closer to peak torque you launch at the lower the ET's.Providing you hook.
Driving around it will slip a tad more but you have to decide what you would rather have, lower ET's, or better drivability.

And to add to that,the techs seem to air on the conservative side like they have been coached by lawyers in case you are dissatisfied.I have 3 convertors now.2 on the shelf and 1 in the car.All b&m and not happy.Pay attention to what works as described above by other posters.They give you real world stall speeds that apply and work.I still have 3 months before my next convertor change and trust these folks to steer me in the right direction.Like my best buddy said.He was told that his oval track roller cam will not work on the street.FWIW-this smallie is an animal and now a builder wants to give him free dyno time so he can figure out why it works so good in this application.Shoot for 3200 stall.You will not like the 2400 so called launch.:beers:

I cant understand why a person would ask a question about the correct converter for their engine here?

:rolleyes:

Why would that stall speed be a little "tight". Will I not get the full potential of the engine with that stall?

You want a converter to "flash stall" at an RPM that matches your engine's power band. Usually a converter should stall near an engines peak TQ rpm. For all out drag racing setup you use a converter that will actually flash past peak TQ. For a street converter you can tighten it up some and it will still pull hard, but in your case I would guess your peak TQ is probably up around 4000 RPM -- you want a converter that flashes up closer to 4000 RPM.

Keep in mind that footbrake stall is usually much lower than flash stall (I would guess that converter you listed footbrakes to the advertised RPM and flashes 500-700 rpm higher). Footbrake stall is just what RPM you can hold the engine to while brake TQ'ing the car. Flash stall is the RPM that the engine jumps to when you nail the gas and have perfect traction (I usually test this in third gear on the freeway). I would like to see a converter for your car that footbrakes to around 3000 and flashes to around 4000.

I hope that helps -- and of course this is just my opinion. ;)

And to add to that,the techs seem to air on the conservative side like they have been coached by lawyers in case you are dissatisfied.

Camshaft tech's that is. They sell cams, not converters.Adding to that sometimes they even get the cam recommendations wrong.

Just remember guys, phone tech people make recommendations off of what info they get from the caller, wright or wrong, and make that recommendation very quickly. Some companies are better than others at it, but whatever the company they do not have long to think about it and you are dealing typically with just one person and their opinion.

That is why I personally like to talk to people like those on this board about what they have and what has worked for them. On a thread like this we all can mull it over and discuss it for days or weeks . . . sometimes we even all agree . . . ;)

I really appreciate the advice guys.

I'll throw in my $.02 here ;)
I have almost exactly the same setup in my nova (388, 200cc iron heads, 10.3-1 compression, 300-36 holley, 750 edelbrock) other than I run a 294s comp cam which is basically a solid version of the 292 magnum. I do run a th350 and 3.73 gears. You *could* use a convertor that flashes to 2400-2600 rpms but that is the absolute minimum, and I bet you wouldn't like it very well. Even extensively tuned, mine is still "grumpy" up to about 2500 rpms, meaning it would launch pretty weak with a 2400-2600 convertor. I first had a 10" ATI convertor (streetmaster, loosest version) and it was too much on the street. It flashed about 4000 rpms and would absolutely kill the tires at anything under 45mph, but it was way loose at "street" rpms, so I had ATI tighten it up a bit. Now it flashes to aound 3400 rpms, will still blow the tires off way too easily, but is much more enjoyable for "normal" driving. Now it will actually move the car in gear at idle (950-1000 rpms) where it wouldn't before.
You also want to make sure your engine rpms aren't too low while cruising in OD.
You will most likely find that your 750 edelbrock carb is going to need about 2 sizes larger than stock squirters...to get rid of the nasty off idle stumble that it will most likely have.

Yeah, its amazing how a converter can effect the tuneup and squirter requirements.