Hi all. I am new the forums and signed up to post some info on a car.
I might be selling a 69 SS for a lady next door. Numbers matching vehicle. Older lady who's husband died and the car was left to the daughter. It needs a lot of work but it is factory air, 350, SS package, hideaway light vehicle, power steering, and power disc brakes. Non-posi, auto on the floor. I can get it for $8K. The car has rust. Vinyl top has some bubbles underneith it, rust in the corner of the doors, had bondo on the rear bottom corners. The car needs some work. Someone stole the light cover motor out of it. I didn't get the numbers off the heads but she says the engine is original. SS hood. SS badged. She said the car was restored 10 years ago. Looks like 20 years ago. It is a black plate car. I was thinking about buying it to flip it? It is too much work for me to restore it. Is it worth it? Would there be any interest on these forums? I would sell it to the best offer. I am going to go to the lady's house and ask her if I can sell it for her. I will get pics then.

UPDATE: PICS ON PAGE 2

Pics are worth a thousand words.Check the trim tag by the brake booster and check the Xcode if its an SS it should be X11.What do you mean by black plate car? Is the rear by the tail lites painted black as this could mean its a big block car.No lite cover motor as they are vacuum driven so who knows what was taken.8 k sounds fair how is the interior? and drivetrain look at rear pumpkin and see if its a 10 bolt or 12

Pics are worth a thousand words.Check the trim tag by the brake booster and check the Xcode if its an SS it should be X11.What do you mean by black plate car? Is the rear by the tail lites painted black as this could mean its a big block car.No lite cover motor as they are vacuum driven so who knows what was taken.8 k sounds fair how is the interior? and drivetrain look at rear pumpkin and see if its a 10 bolt or 12

Black plate meaning a CA car. I check the cowl tag quickly and I saw 124xxx. I will check it out tonight if I get home before it is dark. Interior look decent. SS steering wheel. Gauges looked decent. Bucket seats obviously. The rust sucked but I am guessing someone will be the car for the numbers matching SS option. Where is the Xcode. Cowl tag? Don't know camaros like chevelles. I have been out of it for a while.

Savage, thats not correct. X11 does NOT mean SS. It is only a trim package and the X11 is only on Norwood cars, this might be a LOS car. Till he posts the VIN and trim tag info. hard to know for sure.

my bad what we need is the trim tag info

my bad what we need is the trim tag info

If it turns out to be all correct is it worth it? What is it worth? I know you need pics but I need a range. I don't want to go knocking on her door if it isn't even worth $8K as a true SS.

Quick way to check for SS is a welded 3x5" steel plate behind the rear wheel on drivers side, on the frame at about 1 o'clock that is for dual exhaust hanger. Thats a strong clue but not by itself proof. Hopefully there is an owners manual and POP card inside it. If its a LOS built car, good chance for a broadcast sheet on top of the gas tank..
Even without that proof, if no major body damage, just some bondo and clean up work, its worth alot more than $8000 to most folks. :)

This thread will get moved to TAG or Whats it worth section soon.

Quick way to check for SS is a welded 3x5" steel plate behind the rear wheel on drivers side, on the frame at about 1 o'clock that is for dual exhaust hanger. Thats a strong clue but not by itself proof. Hopefully there is an owners manual and POP card inside it. If its a LOS built car, good chance for a broadcast sheet on top of the gas tank..
Even without that proof, if no major body damage, just some bondo and clean up work, its worth alot more than $8000 to most folks. :)

This thread will get moved to TAG or Whats it worth section soon.

Like I said. It does have rust which I don't know how much of a turn off it is. I will check more tonight. Hopefully I get home before dark.

What is "LOS"?

If the car is whole and runs or just needs some maintaince to get it running $8K is a fair price for a non SS car. If it's an SS then it's a steal at $8K. I'm a bit confused, first you say you are helping someone sell it, then you are looking at buying it to flip. A big difference there... If you are helping someone sell it, you would want them to get the most for their car. Buying to flip you want to low ball the seller so you have room to profit...

Only you would know if the car is too much work for you to restore. A nicely finished orig engine '69 RSSS AC car might pull $40K or more depending on restoration level but if you pay for the work it might cost you that to restore it...

LOS is Los Angeles or Van Nuys where the camaro was built on the west coast. Only 2 plants built them, Norwood, OH and Los but in early days it was called VanNuys.
LOS built 69's had a sheet on top of the gas tank that listed most of the options the car had from the factory.

Los Angeles is what LOS means. One of the plants where they were built. With Blk plates it probably is an LA car. Tag may also say VN for Van Nuys and its worth 8G's in a heartbeat. Trim Tag info won't help if its from the VN plant. Buy it and throw to us sharks :)

My keyboard is slow :):):)

NO WAY it's worth 8 grand. Give me that womans number so I can tell her personally!

Well, I didn't want to put my own money into it. I wanted to sell the car, pay her the $8K and pocket the rest. However, if it is a no brainer I will just buy the car and sell it myself.

NO WAY it's worth 8 grand. Give me that womans number so I can tell her personally!

Why not? Maybe you haven't kept up on project prices but a '69 SS rolling shell will bring more than $5k. $10K doesn't buy you much of a driver '69, it'll need floors, paint an interior and drive train gone through but drives...

You might never pay that much but you'll not be buying too many '69 camaros...

Fred I'm not making these prices up, I spent all summer looking at what's out there...

Dennis...
I think Fred is just kidding. Here in rust land Massachusetts, a rusted to the door handle First Gen is selling for around $5000,00 . A better running poorly with less rust ( still bad) car is selling for around $8,000 so you are right in the ball park for this area. I would say a California car should be worth much more due to less intense rust.

Kev

I think he was being sarcastic. I was also by posting a fake number. I'm not that stupid.

Where do I pull the numbers off the engine. On my chevelle there was a stamping space on the front of the heads. I couldn't find it on this car. Do I have to pull off the valve covers?

If its an early build car the numbers might be above the oil filter in a vertical area that is nearly impossible to see with the engine in the car. There is a hidden vin down inside the cowl vent near the passenger side wiper. It is only the the L for Los or N for Norwood followed by the last digits of the VIN itself. Some 69's had the partial VIN and engine type stamped in that pad you referred too, behind the alternator. Sometimes the Engine type was stamped behind the alternator and the VIN by the oil filter. Some had both behind the alternator. Mine are seperate. Cant read the one by the oil filter at all but its there. That pad area is very rough engine stamping steel, the numbers blend into that rough area. Look for owners manual in glove box and the POP card inside it, or the owners have the paperwork maybe in the house.

So who is Morine and Steve? ;)

There should be a stamping on the pad by the pass side head. The vin might be down in the rough casting by the oil filter though...

If its an early build car the numbers might be above the oil filter in a vertical area that is nearly impossible to see with the engine in the car. There is a hidden vin down inside the cowl vent near the passenger side wiper. It is only the the L for Los or N for Norwood followed by the last digits of the VIN itself. Some 69's had the partial VIN and engine type stamped in that pad you referred too, behind the alternator. Sometimes the Engine type was stamped behind the alternator and the VIN by the oil filter. Some had both behind the alternator. Mine are seperate. Cant read the one by the oil filter at all but its there. That pad area is very rough engine stamping steel, the numbers blend into that rough area. Look for owners manual in glove box and the POP card inside it, or the owners have the paperwork maybe in the house.

The POP will tell me if it is an SS but I want to make sure the numbers match the engine to the vin.

If the VIN is on the pad by the oil filter Id guess you have a 90% chance of NOT being able to see it clearly. DONT scrape or sand it either trying. Clean with engine degrease is ok but again, it will be VERY hard to see clearly. If you can see some of the numbers but not all, and they match up to the numbers under the cowl vent you are probably safe.

I took pics. Will go back for more when it is light.

http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro1.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro2.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro3.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro4.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro5.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro6.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro11.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro8.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro9.JPG
http://64.246.38.10/admin104/bikes/images/car/camaro10.JPG

I see a few positive "SS" signs, but nothing definitive. Multi-leafs, 12 bolt, disk brakes..........need to check for the welded exhaust bracket on the drivers side, and the disk brake proportioning valve under the drivers door.

So far everything looks positive.

Keep digging.

Garnet red with a black vinyltop rs/ss w/factory air, nice combo.

I see a few positive "SS" signs, but nothing definitive. Multi-leafs, 12 bolt, disk brakes..........need to check for the welded exhaust bracket on the drivers side, and the disk brake proportioning valve under the drivers door.

I am going back this weekend to crawl around underneith it. Where is this disc brake proportioning valve.

Going to check to see if there is a POP in the glove and build sheet under the tank. Are those things glued down? I guess there is a box of parts in the back and in the trunk.

Well one thing I've learned from this Post ... 1. There are still cars like this out there at a darn good price . and 2. The owner does'nt really know what a car like this goes for.

How many fuel lines?? Its got wrong carb and air cleaner and I don't see any lines?

Nice!! Looks fairly original for 38 years old. 12 bolt, A/C, PS, PB, original RS headlight squirter solenoid. Red/black.... Nice find. As stated the rust is the big negative.
Doug

Found out is has tilt, wood grain dash, reverse lights, automatic on the floor, power windows.

Are you going to sell? What part of Ca. are you in? Mongo like!!