My car has had the air-conditioning unhooked for 3+ years. I was told before I bought the car everything was in working order. I have bought all new factory A/C lines and new GM dryer, everything else looks ok.

What components can or should I test before hooking everything up?
Can I test the A/C compressor to see if it is OK?
What about the POA valve?
Does the condenser need flush or cleaned?

I will need take it somewhere to have the system charged and am wanting to eliminate as many problems as possible.

Are you somewhat knowledgeable of the A/C trade? If not then I would let a A/C mechanic do the work.

If you are then are you keeping it R-12 (my recommendation) which is expensive? Or converting it?

The folks at the www.autoacforum.com have some great moderators when it comes to the older vehicles. They can help you out as much as you need to.... then probably recommend you take it to a shop to have it leak checked, evacuated and charged.

I am wanting to keep the R12 or possible use something called the Hot shot kit?
I have some knowledge of A/C and my neighbor does heating and cooling for a living. So what advice can you give?

R134 isnt really all that hard to convert over too. My a/c shop did mine and it works fine. Just some o rings involved. maybe www.oldairproducts.com can give you some hints. I got new hoses from them and dryer. Good folks. :)

I have some knowledge of A/C and my neighbor does heating and cooling for a living. So what advice can you give?Flush the condensor.
Check/change oil in compressor.
Change Scrader valves.
Change parts you've bought.
Pressure test ot 150-180 PSI with nitrogen and check for leaks, audible would be good.
Do a triple evacuation. Use your neighbor's Vacuum Analyzing gauge to see how deep the sytem can be evacuated.

Go for it! Good luck!

What is a Scrader valve?

I saved this page from a member's website here a while back, it may be some help to you especially if you decide to go with the R134
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~mccorry/fall03.html

What is a Scrader valve?The little valve inside the service ports.

Change them also. As with us, age gets to them also. Soak all O-rings and new Scrader valves in the A/C oil before use. And hose fitting threads also.

Dont use the Hot Shot or any other "blends" Theyre not needed and in my opinion are just another way to seperate your money from your wallet. The post that shows the info on what to do with the POA valve is right on. I switched over to 134 and adjusted my POA valve and I get anywhere from 28 to 35 degree air depending on the outside temp.

Everett pretty much summed it up. Go for it, your neighbor should be able to keep you out of trouble.

Just convert it to R134a, You are 98% of the way there.
R134a, (read this) in LABRATORY Tests is 95-98% as efficient as R12 in a converted system. R12 gets the vent temps to 36-38*, R134a same conditions, 40-42*,, outside is 90*+.

Get the R134a retro kit, change the oil in the comp, remove the old schrader valves, add the R134a fill ports, charge it with 80% of the R12's charge capacity. (38 oz of R134a).

Older cars with R12 had 3lbs of freon ,,, cooled OK,,, New cars with newer more efficient condensers etc use 1.5-2 lbs of R134a freon and cool better.

Keep good airflow through the condenser and eliminate outside air intrusions.

Thanks so much for all of the help. I think I will go the 143a route it would be much cheaper than going with R12 like I was thinking. I heard in the past 134a would eat the rubber hoses and leak out of the compressor have you guy's heard that?

Also how can i post a picture?

Thanks so much for all of the help. I think I will go the 143a route it would be much cheaper than going with R12 like I was thinking. I heard in the past 134a would eat the rubber hoses and leak out of the compressor have you guy's heard that?

Also how can i post a picture?

If the original hoses are in good shape, yes they will leak out R134a. at a rate so devistatingly fast your going to need to top it off every decade or so.
Its so minimal its hard to measure.
All new hases are the barrier hose and seal even better.

Still have original 1971 hoses on and no problems.