I understand that wheel hop is axle wrap. Here's my problem:

Sorry guys but I hate the factory stance of the 1st gen Camaros. They look like 4wd's in the back. I have a '68 that has a big bearing 9" in the back, replacing the very desirable 8.2 10 bolt. To get it where it needs to be, I put 2" lowering blocks in the back and now the ride height is perfect. Problem is now the rearend is less stable and I'm getting some bad wheel hop that I didn't have with the 10 bolt. My buddy who has built a few cars said that I need to fab up a 2 link off the top of the axle tubes and run it forward then tie it into the frame. I'm having a hard time buying that it's not going to bind up because the bottom is not on heim joints link a 4 link and like the top would be. He said since NO ONE rides in the back seat, and the car is so light back there, I'd be fine due to the limited travel. Would this work or could it really mess up my travel. I don't want it where my shocks don't have a chance to work because everthing is bound up? What do you guys think??

P.S. Slapper bars and the slide-a-link won't work because they hand too close to the road. Up for any ideas.

Don't do it AND at the same time, you probably have too thick a lowering block that is probably leveraging your wheel hop..

If it is too tall and it has multi-leaf springs on it, then take a leaf out and install slapper-bars and go!!

And slappers hanging too low, boy, I ran them for years and years and never had a problem.

Mine are homemade jobbers and the were angle-cut on the very ends so they wouldn't dig into any Mall speed bumps even though they occasionally hit them..

pdq67

Do you have mono leaf or multi leaf springs?

Do you have mono leaf or multi leaf springs?
I have multi-leaf. I think a re-arced spring might be the way to go. Believe me, the Comp J-bolt slappers were about 1 inch off the road adjusted up as far as they could....just a man-hole away from disaster. I really don't want to change the ride height though. My header and exhaust clear the road just fine, and with the Hochkis 2" drop springs in the front, it looks pretty bad-to-the-bone. I love the fender wells just almost touching the tops of the tires. I understand the leveraging though. It only makes sense.

Old backyard trick here.Take a 2 1/2" wide 1/2" thick I think 30" long flat steel bar and run it from the back of the spring perch on the rear to the front spring eye.It goes between the lower spring mounting plate and the spring on the bottom. Clamp it to the spring in a couple of places between the rear end and the spring eye and the wheel hop will stop.Clamps like these or make your own.http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_759014_-1_182846

Funny, I was watching Horsepower tv and they were talking about actually locating your spring perches farther back so you have the stronger part of the spring in the front to stop wheel hop. Mopar actually made (oops...sorry for saying the "M" word) factory replacements for this problem, but you have to make your own for Chevy and the "F" word.

What you are saying does make sense and I can keep my clearance. Thanks!!!

Get some good leaf springs like Hotchkis or Global West. The lowering blocks are a crutch and anything else you attach will be a crutch. If you use good springs the car will ride and drive correctly without having to lug around the extra weight of bars and linkage.
That's really what you want.

The Hotchkis leaf springs are almost flat when installed.
David