I am just about ready to start painting various things on my 68 and I was wondering if anyone had any tips for painting the inside of the subframe. Painting the outside won't do much if it rusts out from within. I am planning on using POR 15.</p>
Also, I have pulled a whole lot of rusty bolts out of this beast. Is there something that can be done to prevent new ones from rusting or are rusty bolts just a fact of life?</p>
thanks - DM

Well it aint easy but it can be done! I have to give my wife credit for coming up with a good idea on painting the inside of the subframe on my '68. Here's what she got me from the dollar store and I taped it to a 4 foot or so flexible wooden dowel. Did one side of the frame then the other the next day. Seemed to work quite well. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1536360&a=12394856&p=45437071&f=0

And here's a pic with it half done I took just to see how good of coverage I was getting! http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1536360&a=12394856&p=45437084&f=0

This is a good way to get rid of those left over cans of POR-15 that are starting to get a little grainy or I had about half a quart of semi-flat that I didn't like. Then I used a new can for the outside. And finally here's a pic of my car somewhat put together...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1536360&a=11870866&p=50149908&f=0

All the black is POR-15, Firewall, around window frames, under car, control arms, etc...Inside the car. I have gone through a ton but I am determined my car doesn't rust!

Almost forgot, I have been using Blue loctite on alot of the fasteners that I put back for two reasons, 1) they won't rattle loose hopefully, and 2) the loctite provides a minimal amount of corrosion protection yet is still easily removed. I said Blue med strength not RED!!! My car will see very little moisture in the future so the rust won't be a problem. As far as the mixed up fasteners go I just tore my car apart and purchased a frontend sheetmetal fasten kit from Classic Industries ($40) that way there is no question their all there and all the same. If I need spares I always have all the ones I removed. For things like motor/tranny mounts, engine hardware I just go get anodized grade 8 fasteners from the hardware store as needed. For my motor stuff everything is ARP.
Hope this helps,
Michael Starmer

[This message has been edited by MStarmer (edited 06-20-2001).]

You can go crazy on fasteners. ARP is nice but I personally think it's overkill except on head/manifold bolts, other high stree engine places like rod ends. As I replace nuts/bolts I go to Lowe's or some other super home products place and get either stainless or grade 8 ( for body mounts ). Now here's a neat touch, I then use my bench grinder and grind off the markings on the bolt heads for a satin like finish. I recently painted the rearend cover and replaced the stock bolts with stainless after grinding the heads. Looks sharp - won't rust.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's

I did the same thing as MStarmer except I used one of the flexable wand dusters (the red/yellow and green kind) and taped it to a dowel. Two thumbs up! It really works.

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69 RS/SS 427 4.11's
2000 Z28 Navy Metallic LS1 6 Spd T-Tops

I haven't done this myself but I have thought about it. The previous ideas are pretty good and seem to work well. I had also thought about using some of the undercoating and rustproofing tools from Eastwood. They have wands and various tips that you could use to spray the inside.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)