Hi folks.

Rather than buy an adjustable rotisserie from Accessible Systems, I am building my own. I bought two engine hoists from Harbor Freight for $179 each and spent another $25 for 5" casters and $15 for 18" of 2 1/2" schedule 40 and 2' of 2" black pipe. So, basically not accounting for Mig gas and wire and cutoff wheels, I’ll have a square tubing vertically adjustable unit with rams for around $400 with left-over square tubing too. The base units are turning out pretty nice and will use an 8-ton hydraulic rams at both ends that came with the engine hoists, so that I can lift it off my jack stands. Anyway, I will have the base units completed tomorrow and will be starting on the rotating frame brackets next.

Since, I will only be using this for my 67 convertible, I have no desire to make these rotating connecting brackets adjustable.

Does anyone know the exact reference point for the center of gravity for a first gen convertible, both in the rear and at the firewall? Obviously, the pivot point will be at the same elevation at both ends. But, it seems that the rear bracket that I intend to attach to the two sets of rear bumpers holes (unibody looks stout enough to attach there) will be shallower than the front bracket (which will attach to the caged subframe nuts).

Without welding extra beads there is slop between the two sizes of square tubing when they fit inside each other. I have taken up the slop in the sliding vertical posts of the base units by adding welding beads to the inner tubing. However, it would be nice to make both the front and rear brackets as one-piece units to keep the unit tighter.

Once I get if finished, I intend to post pictures and instructions, so that someone else can benefit from this project.

Does anyone know the exact reference point for the center of gravity for a first gen convertible, both in the rear and at the firewall?

That sounds like a pretty good idea for a project. I already have one of those cranes so buying a second one and fabricating the rest would be a no brainer. Great idea I could have used a few years ago when I was just starting the project.

-Mark.

I am getting ready to start build a rotisserie and I was going to build one that was listed on this site which was in a magazine article some years back. I do not fully understand how you built yours but I would be carefull about attaching to the tailpan. I have my 67 coupe down to just a tailpan in the back(no trunk, no wheel well on on side, no quarter on one side, and no trunk. What is holding the rear tailpan is not a whole lot structurally. Why dont you attach the rotisserie to the rear leaf spring attachment points. I think it would be much stronger.

Hmmmm....must be something with springtime and rotisseries....
I just ordered the steel yesterday from the local weld shop. I also ordered some pneumatic casters from northern...
I am going to use the plans that the URL was posted on this site as general reference...

bonecrusher....on a coupe they say the balance point is at the beltline....sorry but I havn't paid any attention to the droptops....but....if You do a search on EDP coating there was a guy awhile back that had his car done with the dipping process, He posted a link to his pics and His conv was mounted on a rotisserie....
Also, I have looked at My options for the rear mounting point....I think either way will work since the shell doesn't seem to weigh alot (I can pick either end up Myself), I think that mounting off of the rear spring eye will give more room to work.
Also, Also...once You have the fixtures in position, just tack weld the "sliding pieces" in place....You can grind the welds off later...
Looking forward to seeing some pics.....Good Luck!

Actually, I was originally going to use the rear leaf holes until I saw the picture on this forum of the white 69 convertible on the professional rotisserie that CrossRamZ11 posted. It is using a square tube to connect the inner and the next set of rear bumper bracket holes for three attachment points. http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum16/HTML/000548.html

After looking at the unibody and all of the spot-welds there, why not use the same three attaching points in the rear, it looks stout enough to me?

Here is a link to the floor stands that I took a picture of last night. The horizontal connecting bar still needs a couple of sections spliced together. I won’t get restarted on the rotisserie until this weekend due to other projects.
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/roto.jpg

For the rotisserie I will not be able to reuse the floor hoists, because I have chopped-up the main vertical posts into four pieces. However, I still have one more floor hoist that I can use for my engine, but I need to get it off the base unit. Last year I made four L-brackets out of 3” square tubing to adapt to my engine hoist base, so that I can roll my unibody around the garage. Two of the L-brackets have an X-cross brace welded in for lateral support. But everything will disassemble so I can use this base as an engine hoist again. Here is a picture of that project:
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/rolling.jpg

Finally, I might as well post a picture of my rear-end stand I made last year. I temporarily used the casters from my engine hoist. The T-bar is a piece that was left over from a broken chain drive garage door opener.
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/rearroll.jpg

If you get in a bind, let me know and I should be able to help you out, for I also built one for my convertible and have some pictures with it on it.

------------------
Jim
67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

Well i guess i'll ask, What measurment did you guys come up with? I seen all this rotisserie construction going on so i'am building one to, almost done with the main stands. So iam getting close to the point of making the front and rear main mounts. I,am going to use the tailpan area in the rear and the sub mounts in front. I'am also making it fixed so if you have the drop measurment for the mounts i would be very thankful.

CONVERT'S ARE WEAK ONCE YOU TAKE THEM ALL A PART. SO IF YOU GUY'S ARE CUTING AND REPLACING FLOORS AND OTHER SHEET METAL YOU MUST BE CARFUL. YOU NEED TO BUILD AN X BRACE IN THE DOOR FRAME AND WHAT I ALSO DO IS: WHEN I BUILT MY FRAME JIG I MADE IT WHERE I COULD RUN A PIPE RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE WIDSHEID FRONT TO BACK AND PUT A LITTLE PRELOAD ON THE CAR . THIS IS CONECTED TO THE STANDS ON EITHER END OF THE CAR . JUST BE CAREFUL . IF ANY ONE HAS QUESTIONS I WILL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO SET UP A TIME THAT WE MIGHT TALK ABOUT IT .

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restoration specialist joel

Mines a coupe so i plan on just making up some x bracing in door area's and cross body. Anybody have the measurements for the head units? I ve seen around 15" drop for mustangs on the front mount, and pretty much straight on the rear mount.

I'm done with the rotisserie and have a few finishing touches on the door braces. I've lifted the body and done some minor turning, but ran out of time last week to divorce totally from the rolling stand. Due to little league games and stuff I won't be able to post pictures until next weekend. But, I will have pictures for sure next weekend.

Ok, pictures, pictures, pictures!
DISCLAMER: Only attempt this or a similar project at your own risk. Not mine.


I borrowed a coupe to test drive it. The coupe is a little top heavy on it. However, the convertible is a little bottom heavy on it. So, I won't be doing any height adjustment.
The only problem I have will be lateral end-to-end flexing while board sanding. I may add some outriggers when doing sanding to keep it from getting the pendulum affect.

Bare rotisserie http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/frontfront1.jpg
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/rearframe1.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/rearframe2.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/diagfront1.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/diagfront2.jpg

Coupe on rotisserie http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/coupe.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/coupeups.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/coupside.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/coupside2.jpg

Convertible on rotisserie http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/convdiag.jpg http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/conv90deg.jpg

Left over parts from the two engine hoist kits (4 straps from the kits aren’t shown) http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/xtrapart.jpg

I ended up using about 2lbs of .03 Mig wire and a full 28# Mig gas bottle.
Since the hoist came with metric bolts, I couldn’t use very many of those.
I also used about 12” of 1 ½” angle iron in the rear bracket. So, with extra bolts and every thing totally I came in at $400.
Now it’ time to get the rest of my sheet metal done Of course, after those honey-do projects that have piled up in the last three weekends of building the rotisserie.
Scott

Here are others: http://www.mgbexperience.com/rotator/ http://www.accessiblesystems.com/ http://www.whirlyjig.com/ http://www.booneybarz.com/ http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob/rotisserie.html http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html http://members.tripod.com/~mopar_roadster/body_rotisserie.html http://webpages.charter.net/65chevelle/rotisserie.htm http://www.71protouringchevelle.com/121402-02.jpg (this one steers)


[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 12-27-2002).]

Looking to build my own rotisserie and someone from above mentioned some plans. Where can I find those?

http://www.mgbexperience.com/rotator/

bonecrusher, just read parts of your article would it be possble to get a step by step for making your rotisserie. I have a 69 coupe! Thanks and it looks great and the cost sure looks nice.


:mad: everytime Ii do something to the car I buy more in tools than car parts!!

Almost not worth the effort of buiding your own at this price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=ViewItem&item=2459813388

Hi Jake
I don't have the time right now to write a detailed description, but maybe later. I haven't put a protractor up against the tailpanel on a 69 to know if it has the same 60 degree slope at the point where the rear bumper attaches.

There is a guy selling almost the same design on ebay for $995 with hydraulic rams or $650 without rams. That is not a bad deal if you live close. Otherwise you will need to pay Freight on about 350#s on a pallet for the one with rams. The one reference above for $500 was a reasonably good deal for someone who can live without rams.

thnaks for replies I missed that auction or it would have been mine :(

Just my 2 cents but why not wait a wile, save a little more money and purchace a pro built rotisserie instead of risking life and limb with a garage built roto? I am not a rich man by any means but I read all the posts (About home made rotos) on the internet and went the way of the Roto 2000. This is one stout rig that I know will hold up no matter what. I know that the idea is to save dollars but don't trading your safety in the process! Sorry for the scolding folks but I spent 750.00 (Including Shipping) and all I had to do was to wait just alittle longer to take delivery. There are home made rigs out there that have worked fine but I hope we dont read about an accident one of these days. Be safe guys.

http://www.theroto2000.com/

bonecrusher67conv
Tech Team

I agree with shoddy_F-body it is time spent cutting welding and grinding that could be put towards the restoration of the car. I though about it and decided to go with a prefab. I did end up having to make a bracket for the rear mount to get to the frame rail here is a pic.

I belive the mounting and bracket arrangement that you fab will determine the center of gravity. I have found that once you reach the CG, the car will turn with one hand.

http://www.8ballracing.com/rearbracketmounted.jpg http://www.8ballracing.com/rearbrackets.jpg

I have not put my convertible on the roto yet but, I thought the bracket pictures would help.

I know that you will have to fab up a brace from the quarter pillar to the hinge pillar. You should be able to make a bolt on brace using the floating hinge bolts and the striker nut for mounting. perhaps a triangle type of design with a reinforcement between the two legs back to the striker area.
Maybe a second rear mounting point could be made with a clamping type of mount on the pinchweld area of the rear quarter.

Post a pic of what you come up with!


Good luck with the restoration.


8 Ball

Bonecrusher,

That was some great info from you on this subject and wanted to say Thanks! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I have a rotisserie that my car is on right now and is almost ready to come down off, next car will be getting one like yours.

You can see mine on the rotisserie page of my web site.