I'm considering replacing one of the quarters on my 69 Camaro...I had the passenger side one replaced several years ago, glad to say I was able to buy a GM panel then from the dealer...but, those days are gone. I was thinking of buying a Goodmark qtr...has had any experience with them, did they fit good, decent thickness metal and all?
How hard is it to replace the whole qtr, sail panel and all? I'm considering doing this myself, and it will be the biggest project I have ever undertaken, but I am confident I can do it as well as anyone. Any insight or opinions on this would be appreciated.

Gambitt

I got my full 1/4's from clasic industries, Goodmark told me they are the exact same panel that I would get from them. Anyway the fit is pretty good, however the divers side (left) is a much nicer fit than the pass (right) side. I even sent back the first right 1/4 I got hoping it was a just a poor stamp. Don't get me wrong its not a horrible panel, but the driver side was nicer so I was hoping to get a better right panel. The new one came, and it had less damage, but about the same fit. These are the full OEM style panels ($450.00), not the 80% panels.
I installed the whole thing (no trimming) you have to drill spot welds in side the sail panel by the edge of the headliner.
Austin

Good thing the only one I need is the drivers side one then. Yeah, the full
qtr is the one I want, with the sail panel, thanks for the info Austin.

Gambitt

Check out my site in my signature and look at the body pics. I put 80% quarters on mine from Goodmark. The only issue I had wias where the quarter window is. Where the panel meets the window, the new panel was not as wide. I had to graft the old to the new. This pics show the panels off and fitting as well as welded. I also put on a new tail panel. FedEx dropped the box on both ends and caused the panel to be pushed in at each end. Of course I could not tell until I tried to match it up with the quarters. To solve that, I put the panel in place and used Vice Grips to pull the two pieces together and use SHEET, not sheep, metal screws to hold them in place. After letting it sit like this for several weeks, I pulled one screw at a time and welded the panels together. I also had to re-drill the holes for my tail lights, they were not large enough.

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There is nothing like doing it yourself. www.creeksideclassics.com (http://www.creeksideclassics.com)

[This message has been edited by fade941 (edited 07-06-2001).]

Those must be some pretty BAAAAAAAAD screws http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

hope you didnt pay a lot for those screws ... i sheer you can get em sheep !! LOL

Man...you make one little typo......

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There is nothing like doing it yourself. www.creeksideclassics.com (http://www.creeksideclassics.com)

I am putting a nos tail panel on, decided it would probably be the time to put a quarter on also. What about the thickness of the repo panels, does it appear to be about the same as the factory gauge? I am gonna look around for a nos qtr, but I doubt I will find one at a reasonable price. Thanks for the help.

Gambitt

Its alittle thinner,but not bad. My car had 80% 1/4's on it before, and I just wanted to get them off. There are a few spots that need some work, but they are a pretty good panel. I should have bought NOS about 5 years ago when you could get them for about 500 a side, can't hardly touch them for twice that now.
If you don't mind me asking how much did you give for the NOS tail panel. I bought one from Goodmark, the fit is great but it is going to need a ton of cosmetic work (the 1/4's will be easy compared to the tail panel).
Austin

Austin, what did you do to finish the sail panel. Lead? Bondo?

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1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored)

I originally bought a repo tail and was so disappointed in the quality of it I decided I had to find a nos one. I looked around and found one within 100 miles of where I live for $300.00. It weighs about twice as much as the repo I have. I bought one GM qtr about 10 years ago and had it put on my car...wish I had bought two http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

Austin, what is the best way to remove the factory lead filler? I've asked this question on autobodystore.com, and got no answers yet.

Thanks.

DanBnis, I'm not completely done yet, I am doing a mini tub also (one side done). On the sail I welded all the spot welds then welded the seam solid. I will use a coat of All Metal filler, then finish it off with Metal Galze (a poly filler). I've only been in the buiesness about 12 years, so I haven't done much lead work. Lead would be ok, but you have to make sure you get a Very good "clean" lead from what I'm told (otherwise you will have adheasion problems with your primers and paints).
Gambitt, I used 80 grit and sanded off the paint about 4-5" past the lead, then used a small hand propane torch and a wire brush to melt out the lead. It goes pretty quick. Make sure the glass and rear interior are out.
The worst part about my tail panel is that it was replaced with a GM one about 15 years ago (before I bought the car). There was nothing wrong with the panel, but the BUTCHER that put it on had it about 1/4" to far to the pass. side. Then welded the 1/4 patch panels OVER the bottom of the tail panel. I tried to save it, but he just messed it up to much.
Austin

Austin, where do you buy the fillers you mentioned?

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1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored)

Austin, Any Pics Of the mini tub process? Iam considering doing mine and would like to know what you are running into if you would'nt mind. Also have they improved on the ALL Metal product since 1986? I used this on a chevelle sail panel that i replaced a quarter on and had problems with cracks, so when i hang the quarters on my camaro i'am kinda leary of using again.
I just bought the OER or Goodmark quarters (one in the same from what I'am told) for my 67 and they look great a little wavy on the bottom of the sail panel towards the trunk ledge but for repros Iam satisfied, Dont know how they fit yet as I'am just getting started. I also have there tailpanel and again its a nice panel. If my car was an SS, RS, or Z i would have looked for NOS but for me I cant justify the cost for a base street car like I'am doing. Also i have the full outer rockers from year one and man they are great, real heavy unlike some i have seen at swap meets. A little more money but well worth it.

DanBnis, I buy all my products from the same local supplier my shop uses (southern minnesota auto supply). Any auto body supply store should be able to get the same or similar products (I like Evercoat stuff).
sad67, I don't use All Metal very often, but I've never had that problem.
On the minitub, I did it the same way Kyle Tucker does it. The only thing about it that bothers me is you really have to hack into the framerail. I am going to be installing a roll bar so at least it will have support behind where I had to cut into it. I was planning on taking a bunch of pictures, but with all the pictures Kyle has on his web site I didn't figure I needed to. I haven't started the pass side yet because of the 1/4 panel issues I had. I can take a bunch of pics of that side while I'm doing it though. As of right now I have the drivers side outer wheelhouse welded in, the ineer wheelhouse widened and welded in, and the 1/4 panel ready to weld (mocked in place). I used all new replacement parts so I could work with new metal. The side that I have done gives me about 15" from inner wheelhouse to the 1/4 panel lip, at it narrowest point on top.
Austin

I've heard the '67 and '68 aftermarket tail panels are alot nicer than the '69's.

sad67, in another thread pipeman stated that the hardener that comes with All Metal is junk, and you should use a normal cream hardener. That would explain why I never had a problem, we get seperate tubes of cream hardener at work that are larger than the ones that come with quart sized fillers.
Austin

Austin, one more question (maybe http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif...How hard
is it fitting the roof drip rail to the new qtr? What all is involved? That looks like possibly the hardest part to me. Thanks.

Gambitt

The roof drip rail stays on. You'll see when you get your new 1/4. The 1/4 sail has a lip that sits in the drip rail, and is spotwelded in the drip rail. I will be using a body panel adheasive here instead of welding. You have to dig out the drip rail seam sealer to see where the 1/4 panel seam is.
Austin

Maybe that was it Austin because i used the hardener that came with the all metal.Thanks for the reply, and if you think about it send some pics of your mini tub i would like to see that.

Thanks Austin, I thought maybe it did, but wasn't sure. I have the seam sealer out of all the seams, I really don't think it will be that big a deal...the part I dread the most will be torching the lead...I'm afraid I will get it too hot and warp the roof, guess I will just have to go slow and easy. Thanks again.

Gambitt

Gambitt, I thought someone more experianced would reply. Melting the lead out of the sail panel is easy and you don't have to worry about warp. It melts at a real low temperature. Putting it back (or something else) is what is hard.

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1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored)

Thanks Dan. Glad to hear the lead comes out easy. I don't plan to put it back, from what I hear, modern plastic fillers is much better.

Gambitt

Like DanBnis said, it melts at a lower temp than the sheet metal will warp. Like I mentioned above I use a small propane torch (like you would use to sweat copper pipes in pluming). I like to sand off the paint around it first, so you can see when it melts without the paint in the way.
Austin