Is it a plus or a minus to have a correct date coded warranty CE block in a true Z28 over a non vin. matching DZ block. And if so whats the things that would be important.

Just my opinion, but I would rather have a dated CE block over an original with another VIN stamped on it. Important things are correct dated dist, alt etc.

Just my opinuion, but I would rather have a dated CE block over an original with another VIN stamped on it. Important things are correct dated dist, alt etc.

Same here. CE is closest in my book. IMHO

Rich

The theory is that the engine could have blown up and been warranteed with the CE block, versus an engine that obviously came out of a different car. If you're talking total value of a restored care, I think the CE block would be worth just a bit more than a date coded block. I would go with whichever one you can affordably get your hands on first.

The best altrenative to a missing born with engine is a correctly dated and ID stamped engine with no VIN. They are difficult to find, but do exist.

A correctly dated/stamped but wrong Vin engine would be more significant than a date coded CE engine as the CE is generic and was never installed in a car by the factory, where in the VINed engine had been.

I have a correctly dated CE9 L72 which I would be more than happy to trade for a Real MN L72 dated properly for my car!

The best altrenative to a missing born with engine is a correctly dated and ID stamped engine with no VIN. They are difficult to find, but do exist.

A correctly dated/stamped but wrong Vin engine would be more significant than a date coded CE engine as the CE is generic and was never installed in a car by the factory, where in the VINed engine had been.

I have a correctly dated CE9 L72 which I would be more than happy to trade for a Real MN L72 dated properly for my car!

The lack of a VIN stamp has been discussed ad naseum. The experts say it is most likely never happened. I for one say they are just too hard to see. John Z has checked in on this subject before. I would trust an expert on this site that has actually seen a block w/o a stamp. Not an eBay listing saying so.:beers:

My CE coded, June 69 dated, L72 does not have a VIN stamp anywhere that I can see. Absolutely not on the engine pad, and I looked pretty hard at the area by the oil filter and found no evidence of a stamp. I really didn't expect to find anything there, but I checked pretty thoroughly, anyway.

I have a CE short , All correct parts and dates. What is it worth?? I don't have a car for it and would like to sell it.

Thanks!
Tom

My CE coded, June 69 dated, L72 does not have a VIN stamp anywhere that I can see. Absolutely not on the engine pad, and I looked pretty hard at the area by the oil filter and found no evidence of a stamp. I really didn't expect to find anything there, but I checked pretty thoroughly, anyway.

I am not sure CE blocks would have a VIN stamp.

I am not sure CE blocks would have a VIN stamp.

Very few dealer-installed "CE" short blocks got VIN derivative stamps; most dealers didn't bother with it.

:beers:

I just went through the same delema. Bought correct dated 386 block and was asked if i wanted it stamped. I declined as i did not want my car to have "restamp" on it when i decide to sell it one day.(You can't fool some of these T.C. guys) I also have a correct dated CE I found in Canada. I am not out to decieve any one myself but you can bet the seller behind me would surely say it was an orig motor so I left it blank. To me blank or a CE is the way to go any how. I personally know of a dozen dz motors that were blown up in Circle track cars and drag cars back in the day. Remember they were cheap,easy power if you wanted to run quick on the local oval. Seems as though their is no way that so many 302s are still in their "orig cars" when most of them were toasted years ago. I believe the judges of most car shows are well aware of this also and if you try to present your nom car as orig with a restamp you will not get anywhere. Keep it believable and IMHO you'll be better off in the long run. All this deception may well ruin this hobby for all of us,as people will be afraid to buy these cars due to the large number of fakes out there. Find the owner of the DZ you have (If it's real) and make a friend for life. Not original is just that,not original.

Gary, I guess I misread your original post. I thought you wanted someone to verify a CE block w/o the vin stamp.
In support of John's comments, I would like to hear from someone who has seen a CE block that had the VIN derivative on the block.