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Removing broken fender bolt

13K views 27 replies 18 participants last post by  Vintage 68 
#1 ·
When removing my front fenders, the lower bolt on the passenger side snapped at the head. What are y'all's recommendation for removing this bolt with the least amount of invasive surgery possible? Thanks!

 
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#8 ·
Agreed that welding a nut to the remaining stud usually works :yes:
I also try to get a candle into the thread base area while it's still hot to meld some wax into it - the wax will 'wick' into the threads and help lubricate it during removal.
I've had some success by spraying penetrating oil on them after welding also, if I can't access area to do the candle trick ...
 
#9 ·
Been in this situation too... and crayons will work well too if you don't have spare candles. (plus you can choose the color of your choice);) :D
 
#11 ·
Weld a nut onto it and the apply a good shot of Kroil. That stuff is amazing. I got mine on ebay.

Don
 
#12 ·
God bless PB Blaster! That spray is amazing and has gotten me out of plenty of rusty jams. :yes: You have a few dependable options here to chose from. Let us know how it worked out.

Locking two thin nuts together is a great idea too. Clean, no welding or heat needed, but I would still spray it up (soak it) with PB Blaster and let it sit for a few hours. Then go back to it. Tap it a few times lightly with a hammer when spraying it. It sometimes helps distribute the PB Blaster into the threads.
 
#13 ·
Google PB Blaster vs Kroil....:beers:

Don (former PB Blaster user)
 
#15 ·
This is an old thread and there is another on the same sort of subject.
I have used the weld method for decades, never failed, not just into steel and cars, machinery cast and even Al and brass....and pipe fittings in valley covers.

I welded the nut on the bolt twisted and snapped. Good luck
If u break the weld that means u havint the penitration required for a good weld
When u weld a new bolt on...
taper the end of the bolt 1st...sort of the same way of welding heavy plate V ing out.
With a good punch, dimple the end of the broken stud...simply giving a few good wacks helps loosen
Turn the heat way up and feed right down..chances are the settings on the welder are for panel steel or something lighter.

One of the best 'tricks' told me years ago is spend the week before dismantling an old car or anyhting like that, use some good penitration oil and each night u come home from work go around and spray all bolts studs screws etc.
Good luck
"Luck is directly related to the effort put in"
Mark Twain
"Work hard at being lazy"
My Grandfather and Dad.
 
#21 ·
Don't mean to hijack this old thread, but I've been reading through every single one with 'broken bolt' and didn't think starting a new one was necessary.

I've been working on the same damn bolt for 2 weeks now! My bolt is recessed a bit and so this is what I did:

1. Center punched bolt to drill hole
2. Drilled hole, slightly off center with 1/8''
3. Broken left-handed drill bit inside hole. Ugh.

*** Been soaking with PB Blaster and AC Delco Rust Penetrant for a week.

4. Miraculously dug it out with a freakin' nail of all things!
5. Tried to open up hole more with 5/32 cobalt drill, that broke! Ugh!!!!
6. Dug that out, miraculously.
7. Tried to use an extractor with existing 1/2'' deep hole but extractor keeps slipping in drill chuck and won't work in the hand held T-wrench either.
8. Heated up the bolt with micro torch for 2-3 mins, tried Step 7. again, and the damn thing won't budge!!!

I tried to drill completely through the bolt with a carbide and a left hand cobalt, the cobalts just snap when they grip, and the carbide (right hand) just don't dig in.

I don't even know what to do now but quit altogether.
 
#22 ·
Sorry to hear its kicking your A Mike :sad:

I seldom have trouble with Camaros or other new-ish GM stuff, but when I run into stuff like this on old Ford F-100s and others (and I can't weld to it or heat well) then I resort to step-drilling the bolt with high-speed bits until I can get a larger/largest Left-handed drill in it - to prevent the problem of losing expensive specialty drills.
I can resharpen and continue drilling the 'steps' (just progressively larger drill bores) until I am near the thread wall and then get a LHD or Eazy-out in there - along with more penatrent.

If it a smaller or more mobile piece I have resorted in having a bolt removed by a machine shop using 'vaporization' process - not to expensive in most cases for hard to replace parts.
Very popular with vintage marine crowd ...
 
#23 ·
Another side note.. I have an issue with both of my hood height adjuster front cnrs of the hood....
I have been soaking them off and on for a good 3 months now....I dont want to load them up any more than have done so so far...to that 'feel' if go any further they will stress, and snap
yes the lock nuts are free.
suggestions on this also please
 
#25 ·
No havent heated/ torched yet...been thinking that way...
yes cleaned lower threads etc...cant get any turn what ever...
close inspection no not cross threaded... checked that long ago.
Althu have rebuilt the car several times in the last 30+yrs, have never actually had to adjust, or remove these before, and doubt have been moved since the last factory adjustment...Im pretty sure are the only threads that I have not moved on the car.
 
#26 ·
Sometimes when I run into pretty rusted fastener that I suspect is not allowing the penatrent to get to threads, or worried force will snap off, and they are tough to get heat to - I take a smaller impact (like a weaker 3/8") or really turn the reg. down on a 1/2" and use it to 'bounce' a socket on that bolt to see if I can shock or shake some of the rusted threads a little and then re-soak with penatrent.
This has worked well on surprising number of really stuck bolts and if they do snap off later while trying to remove at least I know I gave them all the help I could - so on to drill and tap ...
 
#27 ·
My Mum showed me tha trick when I was just a nipper, fixing my Tricycle
yeah thats step one always, penitrating oil and a good solid thump, follow thru , no pull back...
I want to turn onesdide up about 3 turns and thew other down about 1 or 2 turns...
And dont want put the rubbers back obn at this stage, they 2 are the orginal facrtory and dont hink could survive many more remove and replace...but that rattle on 1 cnr is bloody getting under my skin some what.

Tried abit of localised heat, a few good bashes, mor oil, today, will give another go in a few more days.
 
#28 ·
My Mum showed me tha trick when I was just a nipper, fixing my Tricycle ...

...but that rattle on 1 cnr is bloody getting under my skin some what.

... will give another go in a few more days.
Don't even think my mom knew what bolt was. :(
And she wasn't a much better cook than she was a mechanic ... :p
But she sure knew how to make reservations :thumbsup:

Those persistent rattles are what they make the BIG tubes of silicone for :D

Time is often all a very rusted fastener needs to let the oil do its job - works for other liquids also :beers:
 
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