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Trying to figure out what 67 I have

4K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  GoCamaro27 
#1 ·
I have checked the CRG site and found the following:
1 = Chevrolet
2 = Camaro
4 = 8-cylinder engine
37 = coupe body
7 = 1967 model year
N = Norwood, OH assembly plant
167563 = vehicle serial number sequence

Decode for body number: 067177

01A = Built the First week of January.
67-12437 = Standard Interior Coupe.
NOR = Built in Norwood Ohio.
717 = Standard Blue Bucket Seats.
Z = (A50) Strato Bucket Seats (without headrests).
F-F = Car Color is Marina Blue
Options:
1E = (A01) Tinted All Glass
2E = (C60) Air Conditioner
3K = (Z21) Deluxe exterior trim


And I checked the engine codes which are
V0301TMM and t42512819

It appears the engine was built in March in flint. BUT I read somewhere that the engine should not predate the car build? So is this not the original engine?

I also found two tags in the glove box in a plastic cover

J.P Stevens & Co
7657059
1170-T DK Blue
1967 "F" Body
Rear 2 DR. B/S S/12437637
12/12/66

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Jerry if your VIN is N167563 then that also should be on the engine not the
t42512819 you posted. Im not sure of the T and which plant that is but the numbers after the "T" belong to another car for sure. :(
 
#3 ·
I believe that the "TMM" suffix is for the truck series. One source indicates it could be a 1974 or 1980 350ci truck engine. Do you have the block casting number and date?
 
#4 ·
The engine is in the car so I cant find any other numbers only those from the head. Great, so I have a 67 camaro with a 74 or 80 350 truck engine? That seems weird because one thing I noted was that mine has the goofy cable lock system so the engine wont move, it would be odd if someone replaced the engine and then added back that cable wouldnt it? Is there anywhere else I can check that I could see with out pulling the motor.
 
#5 ·
Jerry - The recall on the engine mount was in 1971 and if the car had the cable on it when the shop that worked on the car replaced the engine they would have more than likely left it alone. As well the previous owner may have left it installed because the car went through the recall back in the day and he felt it was correct for the car...

If your engine was original to the car it will have a hole back by the distributor with some type of plumbing/breather and you might even still have a bolt on oil filter instead of the spin on style.
 
#8 ·
And yes N167563 is a partial VIN, so I got screwed! Yeah me. Not really screwed I guess but I was told it was a "numbers matching car", I'll bet the 2 speed isnt from a 1970's or 80 truck!

So now what, should I rebuild this thing or chunk it? I really wanted to rebuild the 327. Urghh
 
#9 ·
Well look at it this way. Now you have a chance to build anything you want and you can always disguise it as a 327. Both my cars have a truck engine block.
 
#10 ·
Jerry.....your engine also has a HEI distributor and that distributor did not come on a GM vehicle till sometime around 1975. Looks like prior owner swapped out the entire truck engine into your Camaro.
 
#17 ·
As stated earlier, it is probably a decent engine to rebuild.

Check the casting number on the heads to see what they are. It does appear that maybe they transferred over the intake and the carb from the original engine, along with possibly the alternator. Check the numbers on those and post what you find.
 
#14 ·
Long pad is the part of the head where you see your numbers stamped. Later engines had a 'longer pad' where the numbers were stamped. Older engines in the 60's has a 'shorter pad' that was polished for the stamping guys to hit. :)
 
#16 ·
So now what, should I rebuild this thing or chunk it? I really wanted to rebuild the 327. Urghh[/QUOTE]

It looks like you have a good starting point, HEI, A/C , probably a 4 bolt block (some versions even had the machined webs).

Drop a 307 crank in it and some new pistons and you'll have you 327. You won't get the torque the 350 has (might be nice with the A/C functioning) but you'll have the higher rev'ing 327. Yep, the 307 is a cast crank, but balance the assy and use quality parts and you'll be fine, below 500 hp.

In the end, you'll always get more torque and HP from the 350, but there's something about the scream of a high rev'ing 327 :yes:
 
#18 ·
It looks like you have a good starting point, HEI, A/C , probably a 4 bolt block (some versions even had the machined webs).

Drop a 307 crank in it and some new pistons and you'll have you 327. You won't get the torque the 350 has (might be nice with the A/C functioning) but you'll have the higher rev'ing 327. Yep, the 307 is a cast crank, but balance the assy and use quality parts and you'll be fine, below 500 hp.

In the end, you'll always get more torque and HP from the 350, but there's something about the scream of a high rev'ing 327 :yes

Also you can add the 151 cam and some S/R Torquers and you'll have yourself a nice little L79 copy:thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
Merl: I would search for a nice 327 block to rebuild. There are still plenty of decent ones out there, and even if it's not the original 327, at least it is correct for the car. I also have a 327 coupe, originally Marina blue but with black deluxe interior (and it's an RS), so I found a good 327 block that only needed to be bored slightly to 331, and rather than a 3 speed manual or powerglide I'm going to put a 700R4 in it. A nice 327 would be a pleasant departure from all the 350s (no offense intended towards the 350) but they were great engines back then and still are now. With aluminium heads they are real performers.

Don't feel bad about the whole numbers matching thing, I fell for the same thing with my first '67 RS, it also had a 4-bolt main 350. You might want to save that block for something else.
 
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