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2" Drop Spindles

3K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Joe Harrison 
#1 ·
Started the restore in ernest. Body is completely striped (interior, glass, wiring, doors, etc) media blasted and now starting to weld in sheet metal. Replaced left plenum and cowl, now putting new floor pans in.

Have the front subframe off, decided to convert to front disc (now all drum) before I start putting it back together. I need advice on two questions...

Who sells the best bang for the buck conversion kit? The car will be a driver, no shows, no racing.

Should I concider 2" drop spindles for the "look"?

The car has new booster, how can I tell if it is compatable with disc brakes? (Sorry I added the 3rd question late)

Tom
 
#2 ·
I don't like them at all. They put the tie rod pretty close to the wheel.

As for brakes there are some decent GM based conversion kits out there from getdiscbrakes and speedway. I've installed both and it went pretty smooth.
 
#3 ·
The stock GM style brakes and go with a hotchkiss springs in front. If your on a budget you can use blocks to lower the rear or go with new hotchkiss rear springs.

That would be my best bang for the buck. You can also mill down your stock spindles to convert to disc brakes but some of the kits sold from vendors here, Summit or E-bay are so cheap I don't think it's worth the time.
 
#6 ·
The booster doesn't care if the brakes are drum or disk. You need the correct MC and proportioning valve for disc/drum or disc/disc.
This is true but you need to match the master to the booster in regard to pushrod lenght or the rod the sticks out of the booster and pushes on the master to apply the brakes.

Many people mess this up and have heck of time figuring out why the peddle is very low or very high.
 
#5 ·
As said above, drop spindles put the tie rod end very close to the rim, especially if your running 14" or 15" rims with deep back spacing. Much better to use drop springs or coil overs. If the springs are original, they likely need replacement anyway, so just put drop springs in.

For the brakes, I went with the Right Stuff kit, which I bought through Matt's Classic Bowties. They had better pricing than buying direct from Right Stuff.
 
#7 ·
For the brakes, I went with the Right Stuff kit, which I bought through Matt's Classic Bowties. They had better pricing than buying direct from Right Stuff.
X2 on the Right Stuff kit though Matt's.

Right Stuff kit seems to be highly regarded from all my reading on this great site.
Matt's has great pricing to begin with and gave me a great Black Friday deal. My 4 wheel kit is in transit right now - can't wait!!
 
#9 ·
Oh and for what its worth I run an adustable push rod on my system so I really don't have an issue with length. I can put the pedal where I want it.
 
#11 ·
Oh and for what its worth I run an adustable push rod on my system so I really don't have an issue with length. I can put the pedal where I want it.
Adjustable from the booster to the master or from the booster to the peddle? Not that I am any type of an expert but I have not seen an adjustable rod from the booster to the master. Please provide a part number or where to get one, this could help some people since all you would have to do is replace the rod and not the booster. :thumbsup:
 
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