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Round Two! '68 Coupe Ground-Up / RotoSS Resto!

219K views 860 replies 68 participants last post by  stamatisg1977 
#1 · (Edited)
So..... here's a little story I'd love to tell,
about a '68 Camaro you know so well.

It started way back in history,
it was a Mustang killer as we all agree.

I bought it yesterday ...locally,
so no... you're wrong.... it wasn't Terry's.

It would've been sweet to buy his car,
I'd be honored to complete it, but he lives too far...

(Beatbox solo):D

Boom. Ba-pfiff, ba-boom-boomp.
Boom. Ba-pfiff, ba-boom-boomp.

I've been building my '69 since 11/'08,
had to take a year off,
MAN! what a wait!

The withdrawal was killin' almost had the hives,
so I found a '68 as my second wive
and YES, I know! --->it's wife --but it doesn't rhyme!

Now I've got the space and all the drive,
so let get going and get this '68 revived!

(Beatbox solo)
Boom. Ba-pfiff, ba-boom-boomp.
Boom. Ba-pfiff, ba-boom-boomp.

(Sung/rapped to the rhythm and beat of "Paul Revere" by the Beastie Boys...)


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay so here's the background story. It's a '68 V8 Norwood Coupe, TH350, 10 bolt posi, mono leaf, factory a/c, buckets, console, non-spoiler trunk lid, dressed in Sequoia Green (code VV) with a Custom Deluxe Parchment interior (730). Bought it from one of the most likeable older gentleman I have met, who simply lost interest at the start of the resto due to illness. The interior and inner structure was aboned after blasting, as were the outer body panels after a thorough d/a-ing-- hence the surface rust. The car came from Alabama originally, so minor surgery is required. The main thing is that I will be the first to work on it since new --- and that's cool! Plus! I finally have a nice reference for my '69 right along side it. (not so cool for space reasons, but convenient to say the least.) I'd be more than happy to get some measurements if anyone needs! The car is bone-stock....

The car is easily 80% complete (parts-wise), and completely dismantled as it sits. ... and only missing a handful of things. (I know--I know, they all say that):D It did suffer one small "oopsy" to the driver rear QP but not too severe at all. It's got super-clean frame rails, super-clean rockers (which makes me happy compared to what I dealt with on the '69), except for a small patch needed in the pass outer rocker, and a clean firewall.

Laundry list: (Body-wise)

upper dash panel, upper/inner cowl, one-piece floor, inner fenders, fenders, center trunk patch section, and a yes.... a roof. Luckily it was all included except for the fenders, core support, inner fenders, trunk patch section, and gas tank. From what I can see, the outer wheel houses are nice, but one needs the outer lip replaced as does the driver's QP around the opening.

This will be a (well-needed) theraputic, father/son project that I can't wait to start. My son's more than excited about it too. The '69; however, will be all mine to complete! I don't go out much anymore, or have any other major hobbies like I used to, so this is it guys! Enjoy the pics!
 

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#402 ·
Nice work! I do agree plug welds take time. Today I went into the garage and adjusted the passenger door striker 5minutes later I was back in the house haha. Hate working in 32 degree weather


Steven
 
#404 ·
Nice work! I do agree plug welds take time. Today I went into the garage and adjusted the passenger door striker 5minutes later I was back in the house haha. Hate working in 32 degree weather


Steven
Thanks bud... Sounds brutally cold up there now... Brrrrr... Yea.... my hands just work like they should in the cold. Arthritic and fragile...:( Crank up those space heaters again.
 
#403 ·
Here's the pics from today's progress.... Really thrilled with how tight I got the torque plates to meet the fronts of each frame rail! Nice and tight and GAP-FREE! I'll keep on pluggin' tomorrow to finish it.


















 
#405 ·
On my way to work tonite I filled up a five gallon can of diesel fuel for my heater. Gotta do the brakes on my truck. Ill have the Hester blasting on me in the background :)


Steven
 
#406 ·
On my way to work tonite I filled up a five gallon can of diesel fuel for my heater. Gotta do the brakes on my truck. Ill have the Hester blasting on me in the background :)


Steven
Nice... but does a diesel heater give off a rancid odor when running? Be careful inhaling that if so. Smells like a rotten egg-fart. :p:boring:
Honestly I miss the seasons up there, but could never move back right now. With 3 kids, it would be waaaaaay too expensive. Maybe later in life. Today it was 76 degrees and partly sunny here. Perfect day for Camaro work. Crazy weather for November huh? :yes: Don't work too hard at work. Save your energy for the Camaro!:cool::beers:
 
#407 ·
Haha when I have it heating the garage I have the main door open a little and have the intake of the heater outside. It doesn't really smell that bad I just won't paint with it cause 1. Explosion risk 2. The elements that it produces can ruin the finish


Steven
 
#408 ·
Good point there. Be careful. :yes: Can't wait to see your Camaro in color again.
 
#409 ·
looks great bud! i had a great time workin on the 'maro with with you. sorry i had to bug out early but you know how it goes, when the boss says get home thats what you do...happy wife, happy life. looks like ill have 7 days off on december and i think we will be gulf coast bound for family stuff, so im sure we could get at least 2 good work days in. Good job on the floor, im glad it cinched up to where it needed to be...those 1/4s should next on the chopping block....maybe even get her rolling?!
 
#410 ·
Thanks Tim! Yea-- it was nice having some helping hands and company. Worked out great! Just came in from plugging the firewall to floor seam now. Really happy with it. Just need to reshape the radii on the firewall tranny hump now to match the new floor. It's a little too rounded there from dollying it without a reference of the new floor in place. Easy fix! :yes: Looking forward to hanging again. 'Till then, keep up on the thread and you'll see what I'm up to... Looking to weld in the roof braces next! :yes:
 
#411 ·
Ran out of time, but got 2/3 of the front seam done. Either I need to continue stretching out the corners of the firewall edge, OR/and make a relief slice on each top radii (corner) of the trans tunnel to close the radii more so they meet there. Most likely both will be needed. I'll first flip it over (rotisserie) and work those corner radii, then if they do not reshape enough, I will then make the slices on the new floor to close those corner gaps (only 1/4" but we know it shouldn't be there..:p So either the trans tunnel on the firewall was once reshaped in the past, OR they stamped this trans tunnel on the new floor a little too tall towards the front. I'll get 'er done! :) Stay tuned!












Here you can see the 1/4" gap along the trans tunnel portion of the seam. I will reshape that and/or slice the new floor so it meets flush there.













 
#413 ·
Thanks Jeff! :beers:
 
#414 ·
Great work Todd. Are you planning to spray your sound deadening or use the sheets? If sheets are you going for full coverage or uses strips in certain places?


Steven
 
#415 ·
Thanks! Hmmmmm... most likely will use either Hush Mat or Dynamat in sheets where effective.

Here's where:
  1. under the seat mount brackets before welding them in
  2. covering each inner wheel well tub
  3. trans tunnel and main floor sections (quadrants where feet sit)
  4. firewall under the factory insulation pad
  5. outer door shell surfaces in strips
  6. roof panel
  7. package tray surface
  8. trunk floor in sheets
  9. inner quarter panel surfaces as much as possible
I've installed Hush mat in my brother's 2006 Honda Accord and I can definitely say I was impressed as to how effective it was. Amazing before and after difference in noise levels. I've used Dynamat as well, but mainly for audio system installs, not a full resto like this...

I may also spray the underbelly of the entire shell, including the outer wheel wells, with lizard skin to protect and sound deaden it even further from the outside. That should make a huge difference... It's quite far into the future for me, but that's my plan. :)
 
#416 ·
Alrighty then... The Floor is in! :yes: LOTS of plugwelds and I busted out my arsenal of locking pliers today! I even fitted and screwed in the seat track mounting frames--- just need to punch out and drill the plug welding holes on those and they will be done Friday!

I was able to hammer and dolly the trans tunnel both on the floor and the firewall to make it match without slicing either. I also used the heat of the plug welds to help shrink the top corners of the floor around the trans tunnel to make it fit snug there! While it was red-hot at the corners, I gently tapped them and rounded them down with a body hammer to shrink them into position snugly... (these tips and tricks on this site come in handy if you remember to use them.) Thank you guys for helping!


























 
#418 ·
Looks great Todd. I am experiencing a bad case of ROTISSERIE ENVY!!! I've been crawling under the car to grind down the welds. PITA!!!! You make it look too easy!:thumbsup:
Rotosserie envy-- lol! l:) Muhahaahhaahaaaaa!:p I know--- sorry about that. :D I feel for ya... not easy without it. It does make it alot easier to access everything on the car. (and for emptying out all the black beauty after blasting!) I appreciate the kudos Tim! :beers: Having fun down here now... If I only had more time!!!!:(

I already cleared this Friday with the Mrs. so I can weld in the seat track mounting brackets.
 
#419 ·
Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving!:beers: I think I ruptured my gizzard from eating so much! :wacko:

Now let's get back to work! It's almost Friday-- time to get back on the plugwelding gig for me! A new pair of bucket seat mounts is waiting for my '68. :cool: Here we go! :p
 

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#421 ·
Happy thanksgiving Brotha. In a little bit I'm gonna start tackling the front coilover conversion. Can't wait lol


Steven

Have fun with that... sounds awesome!

This morning I welded in both bucket seat mounts as I planned. Now working on a small patch on the RH inner wheel well near the frame rail... Here's what I got done so far today.... moving right along.




On each side, I first scuffed and coated the hidden floor area with satin black rustoleum, and then weld-thru primer on the weld holes...
















*My weld-thru primer spray can nozzle got clogged and started to drip out as I sprayed... not a big deal since it wipes off easily... I cleaned out the nozzle and it was perfect again. I must've forgotten to hold it upside down while spraying last time around...





























MORE PICS IN THE NEXT POST............>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
#422 ·
I cranked up the heat and produced some nice hot and FLAT plugwelds with super penetration.... see pics!














 
#423 ·
Sweet welds Todd! I've been thinking about the dynamat ever since you said you were going to put it under the seat brackets. Just curious, what happens if it gets wet inside the car? I have every intention of putting in dynamat but I know myself. I will screw up the weatherstripping, the top, or just accidentally get caught in a rainstorm. It is inevitable that I will get some kind of water inside the car, because I am an idiot!:sad: Are you at all concerned with water getting underneath the dynamat? Oh, and happy thanksgiving to you too.
 
#424 ·
Sweet welds Todd! I've been thinking about the dynamat ever since you said you were going to put it under the seat brackets. Just curious, what happens if it gets wet inside the car? I have every intention of putting in dynamat but I know myself. I will screw up the weatherstripping, the top, or just accidentally get caught in a rainstorm. It is inevitable that I will get some kind of water inside the car, because I am an idiot!:sad: Are you at all concerned with water getting underneath the dynamat? Oh, and happy thanksgiving to you too.


Thanks for the kudos Tim... I think I am improving every time I weld. Enjoying the learning curve. I used the settings of C-5 on my Lincoln. Less roloc time later too! :thumbsup:

The Dynamat is coated with the black tar-like adhesive which will not let water underneath it if it's rolled/pressed flat after sticking it down with a wood roller like I did. I am using Dynamat Extreme. Thicker and stickier. It's like dum-dum on the back of it---same as plumber's putty basically or pipe putty--- waterproof. I also plan on testing all weatherstrips before carpeting, so I will know if there any leaks or not. Never had an issue before with other cars. Don't forget I still need to lay down the seam sealer too, so that will seal out the h2o as well. Good question though...

A buddy of mine just called and asked a favor of me, so I need to help him out this evening. 2005 Honda Accord radiator, thermostat, upper+lower hoses, and new antifreeze...

Tomorrow is another day for me... BUT!!! I ran out of argon/co2 earlier,.... so no welding.:sad: The gas supply shop I go to was closed today as well, so I have to wait until MONDAY to get a new tank. This tank went soooo quickly it seems. I use an 80 cu ft. tank too.... Must've been all the plug welding and butt welding on the floor and firewall... Just seems like it went awfully quick...:yes:






 
#426 ·
I have two small tanks of Welding gas. I have a few days after one empties to refill the other. I've found my set up leaks if you forget to shut it off after the days work.

Jeff
Yea-- I checked that out by bringing my gas regulator up to the welding supply shop for them to check it and it was fine-- no leaks. I also added teflon tape to all joints on the regulator and gas hose connecting to the welder shell itself. No leaks there either, and I always shut off the gas after welding without fail. I do leave the residual gas in the torch hose without bleeding it out each time though, and I'm wondering if that's not the recommended thing to do??? I use anywhere from 15 to 20 psi for the gas setting and I did do alot of welding lately, so maybe I'm just not watching the gauge close enough to know how much I use each time. It starts @ 2000 on the scale each time I get a new 80 cu ft tank. Thanks for the suggestion though...
 
#428 ·
That's the ultimate compliment in my book coming from a welding Jedi Master of your level. :bow: Thank you! :beers: I remember dazing into the computer screen in amazement, staring at your plug welds on your Z28 build thread. As soon as I knew what was possible, you gave me a goal to shoot for. Almost there! Thanks!:thumbsup: Brian... My brother lives in Winter Springs, FL. Is that near you?
 
#429 · (Edited)












So after that small strip patch was welded in place, I was able to finish off the plug welds there to the new floor edge to seal it off.




















Next, I am going to tackle installing the new roof bracing kit. I already test-fit it earlier this year immediately after removing the roof panel, so it screwed back in place in literally minutes just now... It just needs prepping to weld it in place. But--before I do that, there are a couple of small patches needed on the upper door opening frame structure where these roof braces weld to. It's easy fab work since they are all flat and rectangular sections to make. This week has been busy so my free time is slim to none, but the weekend is looking clear again! :hurray: Stay tuned...











 
#431 ·
If you squint really hard its starting to look like a car again!:thumbsup: You are doing really nice work Todd!
I appreciate the kind words Jeff.... and I was just squinting at the pics for a few seconds, but can't help but think... man I have a looooong way to go. :D But--- it has come pretty far since February of this year so I am happy with it overall. Almost 100% rust-free! :hurray: Just have the internal surfaces of the trunk compartment to blast and clean up then it will all be in one color again (if you call epoxy a color);)
 
#432 ·
Busted out the Lencospot spotwelder tonight!

Only had a very short time tonight before it was too late to make noise in the shop, but I did make some progress tonight.

Since I had the roof bracing screwed in place and it fit so well, I decided to make it one piece by spot welding the cross braces to each other across the center line of the bracing. All other weld points around the outer perimeter of the roof line are still only held in with sheet metal screws.

After I remove this assembly, I will be butt-welding in a few little patches on the upper door frame openings to get those solid again, THEN--- I will plug weld the entire bracing unit in tomorrow-- as well as add some plug welds to the center line of the bracing to ensure ample strength.

Before I started tonight, I took some new repro scrap metal of the same gauge as the roof braces and used them as test strips for the spot welds. I first used a time setting of 6 and went up from there. I ended up using a setting of 7.5 which gave it nice penetration and weld strength. I placed the test strip in my vice and grabbed onto the strip with a large vicegrip plier to rip the pieces apart and the weld stuck while the metal surrounding the spot welds ripped. 100% score on that test mom! :D

































 
#433 ·
Pretty cool. Are you gonna work on the 68 until its at the same stage as the 69? That way you can make a phase chart like Sunday 12/2 68/69 roof installation day lol


Steven
 
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