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Door adjustment on a 69

8K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  1SLOW64 
#1 ·
when adjusting the doors, how does one go about adjusting in and out "roll" of the door?

seems the top needs to come out a 1/4" at the 1/4 panel.
 
#2 ·
guess my concern was with shimming the hinges. i read on the intraweb that you never shim the hinge at the cowl, that it is done at the door. well the only way i could adjust roll was by adding 1/8" spacers at the cowl. door gaps are perfect now.....
 
#6 ·
It is not uncommon for the doors to be twisted, which leaves a the back of the door sticking out about 1/8 to 1/4 at the bottom when the top is flush with the quarter. My factory doors were twisted. According to the pro body guys on here, the aftermarkets doors are even worse.

I am guessing you shimmed the doors out at the top front. That will definitely make the rear gap look correct. Only problem is, now the door sticks out farther from the body at the front than it was designed to do. So, when you hang fenders, you will be tempted to elongate a hole or two and really shim out the fender at the top to line up with the door.
Now, here is the real problem. If you "over shim" the fenders out at the top, now you will have too big of a gap between fenders and hood. It isn't like you can stretch the hood. Not only that, but you will never get the window to seat in the weatherstrip correctly.


Where the hinges bolt to the body, the nuts are captured, but allow for some movement. If you can't get your rear gap good within that movement, you need to get the twist out of your doors. Ask me how I know.
 
#8 ·
Do a search on twisted doors. I had to do both of mine. I tried to take pics, but between me and my wife (best helper of all time) holding the 6 ft 2/8 and the two foot 2x4 and the giant tow strap... and the cameral didn't work on the first try, so... sorry, but no pics.

although a bit wordy, I can probably explain the procedure I used. I am sure there are others, but it worked very well for me.
 
#9 ·
Something does not sound right. For the door to be sucked in 1/4" at the top, you would have to have a major twist in the door. Are you sure your lower door hinge isn't set too far out? Front of the door should be paralle to the vertical pinch weld and roughly 3/8"-1/2" from it. If it is not parallel, the door will not seal when shut, and if gapped to far out will set the fenders to far apart and have a wide gap between wiper cowl and fender edge. That will also put a strain on the hood hinges making non uniform gaps and poor fitting header panel.
 
#10 ·
update.... i didn't realize there was in and out adjustment of the hinge at the door. after loosening both hinges and pushing in on the bottom and pulling out at the top i was able to get perfect gaps with no shims at all! thanks TC!!
 
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