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Undercoat or not

10K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  Mat Klemp 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I am in process of doing a frame on deal for a nice driver car. The car is super solid underneath and I have removed the undercoating that was on there with Diesel fuel. It worked great for the removal part. Basically the bottom of the car is real nice with no rust and minimal dings from years of driving. The under coating sure saved this one for sure. Anyway I am curious if I should just paint the bottom black and move on or should i throw on some sort of coating. I'm at a point where I could do it either way so what is the opinion out there. I dont' think this car will ever see water again so that should not be an issue here.
 
#2 ·
I don't know what undercoating, if any, was original so I can't comment on that. However, when I see undercoating on a vehicle, especially an older one, the first thing I wonder is what problems the undercoating is covering up. My mechanic was looking at a 69 Chevy truck on eBay, a super clean looking original 396/325 TH400 truck, but it had extensive undercoating only in certain spots underneath. That scared him off quickly.
 
#3 ·
now you got to clean the diesel fuel off real good since it has oil in it.no coating or body sealer will cling to it.i brung my bottom of car to same as you. pressured washed it. used mineral spirits to clean hard spots. used a sand blaster to get totally clean. used paint thinner to make sure all solvents are off.primed bottom of car.than used rust bullet(same stuff as por-15) than used a under coating on car. and finally used flat black paint. maybe a over dose but i know whatever the road kicks up plenty of coverage to not to get to metal.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I plan to do some serious cleaning prior to any coating work for sure. I'm leaning towards taking some pictures of the car as it is now and that should confirm the quality of the floorboards, trunk floor etc and then probably some sort of light undercoating. The car won't be in any weather and as far as I can tell it won't be my worry as to how to sell it as it won't go anywhere while I am kicking. As far as undercoating goes is the stuff the Eastwood folks sell the Best. I would prefer to do a spray thing if possible but open to suggestions.
 
#5 ·
Scott, Some of these guys just "dont get it" what you and I hope to accomplish. I'll assume you and I want to replicate some form of an original factory or at least a(black) painted finish and NOT just a monotone ugly undercoated look.
My own 69 Camaro did not/does not have the real nice clean unrusted floor frame that evidently you have. I have removed areas (not all) of undercoating using EASTWOODS waterbased product and misc wire cups and wheels. It just wont be practical in my case to remove 100% of my floor undercoating my car is on jackstands with only the gastank, 12 bolt, springs and exhaust removed.
Anyway after some more wire cup cleaning and scotchbrite cookie buffing, I was planning on using the EASTWOOD Rust Encapsalating paint. Then I would top coat with EASTWOODS Extreme Chassis paint in semi gloss.
Does anyone have any GOOD PICTURES to post or comments to add ............about cleaning and refinishing underfloors on a car that is a nice driver, but NOT a full on trailer queen resto!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#6 ·
How about un-restored-original?

 
#7 ·
Fred, Thanks for the ORIGINAL Unrestored pics..............but not sure how that will help Scott or myself, who is struggling with how best to achive a NON UNDERCOATED "painted" look..............

Fred, I would appreciate more pics showing how both sides of the expipe hangars fasten to the underfloor ?????????????? as I am also needing to deal with how BEST to support a new 2 1/2" system
 
#8 ·
mine was rust free when i got it. i took lots of pics, cleaned it up and undercoated it. i live on am island surounded by saltwater.
the pics are to prove i am not hiding anything and the undercoating it to protect it.
thats what was best for MY car.
 
#9 ·
Nice under belly Fred. Trying to figure out where the magnetic pick up came from.

My car still has the orginal QuakerState Quakercoat, I put it on thick when new. I do understand the ugly monotone word and I am sure that people that have seen the rougher than a cob finish, would get same impression on "what panels did I replace" thought. But not here.
I have been seeing some guys , apply to a clean under carriage, a rough texture of a Rhino bed liner material. Looks good for cars that will never have mud locked on the the rough finish. Like all other coatings, you will have to have a good clean surface.
 
#10 ·
Back in the sixties, undercoating was a cash-cow for dealers. I thought it looked awful, especially the way they sprayed it all over the place. I specified 'no undercoating' when I ordered the car. The factory puts a little in the wheel-wells. That's OK.
Don, the pick-up is for my cruise control. I installed it in 1980 or so. I haven't replaced the magnet on the new drive-shaft yet. Might never replace it.
Chuck, I just try to help.:yes:
Oh, Chuck, you asked about exhaust hangers. I don't have any from the inside. I'll take some as soon as the rear seat comes out again. Here's from the bottom; these have never been removed or modified in any way. This shot is before I washed them.


Here's after a scrub this spring.
 
#11 ·
That is a clean undercarriage for sure. Just curoius why you relocated the battery to the rear as it appears there are cables for that. Anyway I am going to take a look at the eastwood stuff and see what they have out there and see what I end up with. thanks again for the info guys
 
#12 ·
That is a clean undercarriage for sure. Just curoius why you relocated the battery to the rear as it appears there are cables for that. Anyway I am going to take a look at the eastwood stuff and see what they have out there and see what I end up with. thanks again for the info guys
OK, trying to remember,,,there were three reasons,,
1. Weight balance front/rear. Vast improvement.
2. Weight transfer for racing. Wasn't doing much back then but I am now.
3. Placed the Moroso polished coolant recovery tank where the battery would sit. It's a natural.
 
#14 ·
I had undercoating and went through the same process with wire wheels paint scrapers, heat guns, etc. Once I had it down to the metal I primed with Rustoleum bare metal primer and painted with Rustoleum Satin Black (7777). Lot's of hours underneath the car on my back in one of those Home Depot paint suits, goggles, and spray cans. Looks good and easy to touch up spots when needed. Paint is readily available and closely matches chassis black.
 
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