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opinions on 350 GM Goodwrench motor with E tek heads?

8K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  joesauer 
#1 ·
i've been comtemplating getting a crate motor street worthy, nothing nuts, and was looking at the GM 350-330hp crate engine originally, but i just dont like the looks of the center bolt valve covers under my cars hood (just my personal preference)

gm 350/330hp crate engine:
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255511-19210007-gm-350-cid-330hp-vortec-crate-engine.html

...so i've been thinking about buying a basic GM 350 Goodwrench motor then putting on edelbrock etek heads and switching out the cam..
basic 350 GM goodwrench crate engine:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/10067353/10002/-1?parentProductId=752506

gm 350 crate motor-$1500 shipped
edelbrock etek alum heads- $900 shipped
aftermarket (better) cam---bout $150 shipped

that makes it about $500 less than the 330hp crate motor and i'm sure its more like 375hp

any opinions? been looking at this article and it has my head spinning :eek: b/c thats pretty much what these guys did
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1209_eight_budget_sbc_head_shootout/viewall.html
 
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#2 ·
I started with the 350HO, and changed a lot on it.... including valve covers, dizzy and carb (long story on the dizzy and carb....).

So what you are thinking makes sense. Not sure of the bottom end on the lesser motor - just never looked into it. Easy enough to look up the part numbers and make sure it can handle what you intend.

I wish now that I would have gone down the path you are suggesting - could have saved some dough, and my brother in law wants to steal the car for a cam change every time I see him :eek:

The 350 with vortec heads is a nice running motor.
 
#3 ·
Are you planning to use the valve train from the iron heads on the Etec's? Not sure that will work, and assembled Etec's are closer to $1200/pr. Do you have a Vortec intake manifold to use with those heads? If I'm buying new I'd want to try and get a 1 pc rear seal and a roller block too, and the $1500 engine has neither (the HO350 is a roller block but doesn't come with a roller cam).

Here's what I'm looking at: Take an L31 2-bolt main Vortec engine ($1799 including shipping and 18 month 0% Bill Me Later financing on eBay - search for "12530282". $100/mo helps my cash flow!), which gets you a roller cam, 1 pc rear seal, Vortec heads, and is plenty strong for my use. Now add an LT4 Hot Cam ($225), LS6 beehive valve springs ($60), Comp Cam 787 and 648 retainers and keepers ($100), and you should be in the same hp/tq range for less (all depends on what else you need). For instance, I'd have to go with an electric fuel pump and a new flywheel. One thing you'd need is adapters for your old valve covers...
 
#5 ·
Are you planning to use the valve train from the iron heads on the Etec's? Not sure that will work, and assembled Etec's are closer to $1200/pr. Do you have a Vortec intake manifold to use with those heads?
the heads come already assembled for $900...i'd prob just use the stock rocker arms and hardened pushrods since these eteks have guideplates, i "think" they dont need the vortec intake and rocker arms, do they?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390333616881?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 
#4 ·
12530283 is the 4-bolt version of the L31 long block. Seems more or less the same as the 330Hp crate motor minus the chrome, but has a different camshaft.

Alternatively I think 12556121 is the L31 short block (1 piece main, roller capable) but it seems to be discontinued.

As far as the idea of buying a base long (or short) block and bolting on your own heads, cam, etc -- definitely a good idea provided you can match the parts reasonably well...

If you're going to dump the heads anyway, you should be able to find a GM Goodwrench short block for somewhere around $1000-$1100 range (I had part numbers someplace, but can't find them right now....)
 
#10 ·
12530283 is the L31 with 4-bolt mains that came in larger trucks, and the 12530282 is the L31 with 2-bolt mains that came in "regular" size trucks. Otherwise I think they're the same. Nodular iron cranks, PM rods, hypereutectic pistons; pretty strong stuff for the price. Pace Performance sells the 283 for only $40 more, which would be a no-brainer, but no Bill Me Later financing, which I desire. The 283 engine with Bill Me Later financing easily adds $300 to the price on eBay. I also don't think you *need* a 4-bolt bottom end for the horsepower levels we're talking here (need vs want). I'm not sure GM is selling the short-block versions of these anymore. You may find one in stock somewhere if you're lucky, but not at places like Scoggins-Dickey, Sallee and Pace that move a lot of GM engines, and they've dried up on eBay.

The 350HO is very similar to the L31, but it doesn't come with a roller cam, which is another thing I desire if I'm getting new engine these days, and it costs more. BUT, the mods I talk about making to the L31 mean bye-bye warranty.
 
#8 ·
OK the motor you show from Pace is basically $3k for a long block flat tappet, Iron Head 330HP motor.

You can buy this ZZ4 GM 355 HP crate motor Roller cam, aluminum head motor for $4k. Plus it comes with the intake and HEI dizzy, Water pump, Balancer etc.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/ZZ4...O-with-Aluminum-Heads-24502609-P9406C944.aspx

The best thing about going GM crate as opposed to doing your own thing is the 24 month 50,000 warranty:beers:
 
#12 ·
OK the motor you show from Pace is basically $3k for a long block flat tappet, Iron Head 330HP motor.

You can buy this ZZ4 GM 355 HP crate motor Roller cam, aluminum head motor for $4k. Plus it comes with the intake and HEI dizzy, Water pump, Balancer etc.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/ZZ4...O-with-Aluminum-Heads-24502609-P9406C944.aspx

The best thing about going GM crate as opposed to doing your own thing is the 24 month 50,000 warranty:beers:
man, i'd looove to have that ZZ4 engine, but with shipping on that web site they way $4,352 total for that motor....and i'm not exactly sure that those "D" shaped exhaust ports and the angled spark plugs would work with my Dynomax musclemax headers, plus i guess i'd need a different flywheel and a melonized dist gear, etc...

that thing looks bad azz though:thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
#15 ·
Go with a ZZ4 GM crate engine & use the valve cover adaptors. Watch out for the low end GM short & long blocks (priced under $2000). They are made in Mexico, and some of the internal parts are suspect. Even with the warranty it's not worth the reliability hassle. I speak from first hand experience.
 
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