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67 Camaro L6 to V8 conversion, which motor mounts?

31K views 71 replies 9 participants last post by  ronald66 
#1 ·
Hi guys,
i'm helping a buddy finish his 67 Camaro,since he fell in the wrong hands and they made a mess .
I was looking around for some new motor mounts and engine mounting frame brackets, i found it pretty confusing to get the right ones for a 400HP SBC,
anybody been through this already??
We would like to get the best..
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ron
 
#41 ·
Just got the car this morning,seems like there is a few more issues then just the motor mounts..
lets take one thing at a time,heres a few pics of the crossmember.


with the new motor mounts the hole set up should move foward about an 1"
what do you guys think??
 
#42 ·
That looks like a TH-350 transmission in the pictures so the crossmember should be fine. Your engine position may not change with new mounts.
 
#43 ·
That looks like a TH-350 transmission in the pictures so the crossmember should be fine. Your engine position may not change with new mounts.
WOW! i didn't even realize that the tranny is a th350 since my buddy told me he had bought a th400 :sad: i didn't look at the pan to see what it was..:eek:
At this point do i have to worry about the diveshaft being to long or short??
heres a pic
 
#44 ·
The driveshaft looks fine going into that TH350.

If the correct 67/68 frame/motor mounts cause the crossmember to be repositioned; there are other holes in the subframe that will most likely line up. Just loosen/remove the 4 crossmember end bolts and align for best fit. You may also have to loosen (not remove) the crossmember-to-tranny mounting bolts to gain some wiggle room.
 
#46 ·
Yep, that's what they look like.

You probably want to throw the extra third bolt in and it's usually a good idea to have the bolts insert from below and not above (as pictured).

Hopefully, you also got the Energy Suspension's urethane matching motor mounts.
 
#50 ·
Yes, you are correct the frame mounts are installed backwards. The engine mounts look fine. Everything is fine. I don't know why they are trying to confuse you.
 
#53 · (Edited)
That's what they look like means; yes, that's what the correct frame mounts look like (there are two others, BB and 69 SB HP).

Tom's right that the frame mounts need to be swapped so that the dog ear is falling off the back of the crossmember (like in the DP photos). Is that why you didn't put the third bolt in, because the frame mount wouldn't sit flat?

The logic to putting the bolt in from the bottom is that you don't lose two items (the nut and the washer) with the bolt being bigger than the nut and washer is sometimes easier to fish out of the crossmember if it gets dropped. But either way still fastens the mount to the frame. Also, it's much easier to poke the bolt though the bottom and attach the washer and nut from above than the other way around.

The engine mounts look great and are the correct parts.

With an inch of front to back difference, looks like you might be sliding your tranny x-member forward to the correct bolt location on the subframe.
 
#55 ·
That's what they look like means; yes, that's what the correct frame mounts look like (there are two others, BB and 69 SB HP).

Tom's right that the frame mounts need to be swapped so that the dog ear is falling off the back of the crossmember (like in the DP photos). Is that why you didn't put the third bolt in, because the frame mount wouldn't sit flat?

The logic to putting the bolt in from the bottom is that you don't loose two items (the nut and the washer) with the bolt being bigger than the nut and washer is sometimes easier to fish out of the crossmember if it gets dropped. But either way still fastens the mount to the frame.

The engine mounts look great and are the correct parts.

With an inch of front to back difference, looks like you might be sliding your tranny x-member forward to the correct bolt location on the subframe.
Yes i got it now,the bolts were just slided in without the nuts to see the position and yes i wiil put 3 in there. :yes:

Thanks for the idea on putting the bolt through the bottom..
 
#59 ·
This post was hi-jacked away from the original L6 to V-8 a long time ago !
 
#61 ·
Looks great!

Hope you waited to tighten the lower a-arm frame attachment bolts until the engine was installed (70 ft lbs).

Nice looking Hotchkiss 2 inch lowering springs.

I suppose everything aligned out back (tranny x-member and the frame holes).

Do you have interference with your harmonic balancer and 1 inch sway bar?

Also, I forgot to mention that it looks like the backing plate for the urethane engine mounts weren't installed. I could just be a bad angle for that picture.

Bravo.
 
#62 ·
Looks great!

Hope you waited to tighten the lower a-arm frame attachment bolts until the engine was installed (70 ft lbs).

Nice looking Hotchkiss 2 inch lowering springs.

I suppose everything aligned out back (tranny x-member and the frame holes).

Do you have interference with your harmonic balancer and 1 inch sway bar?

Also, I forgot to mention that it looks like the backing plate for the urethane engine mounts weren't installed. I could just be a bad angle for that picture.

Bravo.
Thanks!!
No we didn't wait to tighten the lower a-arm :( , will it be ok to loosen them up and move the car up and down to get them right and tighten them up???

Yes those are Hotchkiss 2 inch lowering springs.

Yes everything aligned perfectly out back but i do still have just a little more than 1/2 inch space between the firewall and distributor, is that ok??

The sway bar got in there perfect..

Hers a pic of the engine mounts..
 
#63 ·
You should make a final loosening of the 4 lower a-arm bolts when you have the whole front end together and resting on the ground under it's own weight, but it would be a good idea now to loosen the bolts and relieve the twisting pressure on the bushings then retighten.

The 1/2 inch seems a little short.

Did you verify your subframe install using the two guage holes near the middle two frame-to-body mounts (the ones where you can see the caged nut through the rectangular holes in the firewall)? Stick a tire iron through both holes and verify that the tire iron is mostly perpendicular to the frame (close enough for government work). If not, loosen the mid-frame mount, lever the two holes into perpendicular alignment via the tire iron and retighten. Do one side at a time.

Glad to hear you didn't have to shim your sway bar down and away from your harmonic balancer.
 
#64 ·
1/2" space for your distributor, is more than enough. With '69 302/350 mounts my HEI would not fit without clearancing the firewall !
 
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