[thefsr]

I am new to this forum, so hopefully i can add enough information..
I have this th350 transmission - it is a non-lockup, its aprox 77-79..
The transmission had burnt out - all friction disks were metal to metal, thus there was alot of cleaning. I had persionaly rebuilt it with performance parts, changed bushings and seals, and gaskets all around.
All check balls are in there proper location, valve bods has new gaskets and all torqued to 13 ft p..

Here is my problem..

The transmission's 1st gear is not working - meaning that when put into drive, the transmission starts in 2nd gear and then shifts to 3rd, when selecting 1st Gear - manual, the wheels do not move - the transmission acts as if it is put into park, but when taken out of 1st gear and put into 2nd wheels turn, and so on to 3rd. neutral and reverse works fine and so does park.. But cant go too wrong with park..

I had changed the valve body plate to HD/Strip and the same issue exists, then i changes it to the competition plate and same as before, the issue is still there, so i had put everyting back to factory.. Still the same problem..

Based on the work i had done with the valve body, I am guessing that the valve body has been eleminated as a possibility..

Like i said, I am new here, as well this is the first automatic transmission that i have torn down.. So any information that could help me with this project is most appreciated.

Thanks Eric

[jakeshoe]

You're intermediate clutch pack clearance is too tight, probably a 6 cyl piston and you installed 3 frictions and steels instead of the two it had.

It could also possibly be a band issue being in a bind or applied at all times but the band will usually not hold against power.

Before you tear back into it you could check the 1-2 accumulator piston on the side, if it is broken, cracked, or a seal left off it could cause an issue but should also show up in 2nd.

Chances are, the int pack...

[hereitis67]

if you do have third clutches to tight. you can drop pan and check first. in front of valvebody theres a hole where you can get a pick in there and see if you have movement on the clutches or are they tight. well than you can pull it back out.

[jakeshoe]

Originally Posted by hereitis67

if you do have third clutches to tight. you can drop pan and check first. in front of valvebody theres a hole where you can get a pick in there and see if you have movement on the clutches or are they tight. well than you can pull it back out.

You aren't going to see the third gear clutch pack clearance with the trans together..

[hereitis67]

oops sorry but the intermediate clutch pack or second gear. it has been a long day cant think straight. but i am correct on how to see if second is too tight.

[thefsr]

hay guys thanks for the information.. I'm sure that i will have to pull the transmission.. As for the 1-2 piston, I thought that would have been the problem, so i had replaced the rings on that.. So i am betting - chances are that its not the piston "thanks for the suggestion though" although i could be wrong, besides if i am pulling the trans, im going to re-check that area too.. Ill have to look at that int. clutch pack..

Also is it not recomended to remove the band??
I know that its used as a engine brake, but does it make a difference??
Like i said before, this is my first Automatic transmission that i have, so its a learning experience..

Thanks again for the information. its most appreciated..

[jakeshoe]

Did you leave the band out?
You can do that (no good reason to on a street car) but there are steps you must take to prevent the servo pin from getting into the direct drum.

The accumulator piston is probably OK, but it is on the list of things to check if everything else checks out fine.

Do you know the history of the transmission?
Was it a six cylinder core?

If not, when you rebuilt it, and tore it apart, did you match the number of clutches in the clutch pack with the number that came out?

Some models used fewer clutches, if you stack too many, it may go together but the clutch pack would be permanently engaged. IE, no first gear in auto mode, and a bind up in manual low....

[thefsr]

No the band isnt out, its still in there, when I rebuilt the transmission I did make sure that i used the same amount of clutches and steels that were originaly in the transmissioin, I have a rebuild book for the trans th350 C, but i have only been using it as a reference, I know that i dont have the C edition...

[hereitis67]

i know in rebuilding kits they give you 4 gaskets for valve body.do you have right 2 in there.i never mixed them up so dont know what would happen to tranny. did you follow the check balls from a 350c book or from a 350 tranny. or what shift kit said. if shift kit probally only 1 ball goes back in case. for a heavy duty or street and strip. or they tell you to drill plate out in other orifices and put in 4 check balls. for a lockup tranny there is 5 balls to put in. mabe you put in to many and hydro locked it up. after you put in drums and than band. theres a set of clutches on top of it that is intermediate clutches. as i said before you can go through pan theres a hole and see if they got movement. if installed wrong it would bind up. first is presure plate flat side up and bevel goes down than clutch. than steel clutch. like jake said theres either 2 or 3 clutches in there. depending on 6 or 8 cyl piston. and as you stated you put in exact same clutches and steels that came out.in this picture only number 2 check ball needs to be put in and number 5 isnt there on a non lockup 350 also rest you can leave out for shift firmness.

[thefsr]

Thank you "hereitis67" for the diagram of the check ball locations, I do have the check balls in the correct location's, I did follow the diagram from the rebuild book that i have.. its a 350c book so it did tell that i required the 5th check ball, but this transmission is a non lock, as well when i was doing the valve body kit, i had went through all the fashions of the reprograming kit.. the heavy duty or street and strip required 2 check balls, one in location 1 and the second in location 2, as well there was a competition plate in there same gaskets were used that came with the kit, that only required 1 check ball in location 1.. Also i had the original factory plate too, so i put that back in with all 4 check balls - that was the last thing i did with the transmission.. but when i had done all 3 forms of this reprograming. the end result was the same.. 2nd gear start in Drive - no first gear start, 2nd gear manual select - no first gear start, just 2nd gear, then i put it into 1st gear manual select - end result of this was lockup of drive axle and tires..
I am planning on removing the transmission within a day or 2, but when i dissassemble, what ill do is take some images or turn on my recorder to document this to show you guys and to see where my fault might be at...

Thanks again
Eric

[hereitis67]

when you get it out. right in front of that number 5 ball in picture is a hole that is where you check for clearance for intermediate clutches. those clutches should move(from front of tranny to back of tranny) and not be tight at all. check there before taking it apart.that way should tell you problem lays there or somewhere else.

[thefsr]

thanks "hereitis67" ill have to check that out, that might just solve my problem.. ill give you an update...
Thanks again