[magisnyc]

I just installed a new pair of dynatech headers to replace the hedmans which I thought hung too low. However after the install, the dynatechs hang just as low as the hedmans. Its pretty obvious where the bends of the x-pipe have to reach down to connect to the headers. The rest of the exhaust hangs up close to the floorboards nicely. You can see where the headers are in relation to the frame.




I do have hotchkis 2" drop springs in the front but i dont think it would alter the header height that much. Body bushings were changed to polyurathane a few years ago.

I'm wondering if the problem is now with the motor mounts. I know there were different versions but not sure which i have and which i need. I don't know if you can tell from the pics, but let me know if that is actually where my problem is.




Not cool when you get compliments at the gas station only to hear a loud scrape when pulling back out on the street!

[reelknots]

Frame mounts look good, but I agree with your thought on the motor mounts. They look too thin. They look like thin solid mounts!! I think. Here's what my small block motor mounts look like.

[eyecell007]

Agreed, they do look to thin to me as well.

[Steiner]

If this is a '69 that originally had a 302 or 350, check the parts store and ask for Anchor 2283. These are the correct "taller" engine mounts for a 302/350 but their application guide is wrong and specs the "shorter" mounts for a 350. Those "shorter" mounts will fit on a 307 or 327 frame stand but will drop the engine, sometimes even making it impossible to get the engine installed with a non-stock oil pan. My car originally had mismatched mounts like that.

If your car had a 307 or 327, note that the 2283 will not mount to the frame stand as it will be too narrow. The correct mount for a 307/327 frame stand is Anchor 2285. Engine height will be approximately the same with either CORRECTLY MATCHED set of frame/engine stands.

While you're at it, you may want to check your trans mount as well. I think it's supposed to be around 1-3/4" tall but can't remember exactly.

Here is an old pic of the Dynatechs on my old car with the correct mounts.

[novaderrik]

no motor mounts are going to move the engine up far enough to gain you a useful amount of ground clearance.

[Steiner]

Originally Posted by novaderrik

no motor mounts are going to move the engine up far enough to gain you a useful amount of ground clearance.

I'll vouch for that, especially once you drop it 2". If the mounts do happen to be mismatched, that's not the best reason to leave them. The best reason is because they're a pain in the *** with everything in the car.


To the OP, forgot to mention that if there's even the tiniest bit of space between the motor mount ear and the frame stand where the bolt goes through on either or both sides of the frame stand, then the engine mounts are probably wrong. The right mounts are tight enough on the sides that they practically scrape the paint off the frame stands going on.

[TJS69]

Your frame and engine mounts look fine. They are the 307/327 short and wide mounts.



What is the distance between the collectors and the floor boards ?

[magisnyc]

The motor mounts are the energy suspension mounts like TJS69 has in the pic. No issues with balancer clearance or vibrations as the mounts fit very snug.

This is a 68 and there is about 3" of space between the collector and floorboard.

Other than swapping out the springs again, is there anything I can do for clearance? I'd hate to have to buy another set of headers as the Dynatechs are nice but they will quickly be ruined as is.

[Fred Mertz]

My D-368's fit nice a snug up against the floor board since I slotted the flange to raise the headers for a better seal with my raised port heads.

Is that a run-on sentence? LOL!

[magisnyc]

Just wanted to update everyone who was kind enough to respond to this thread. My problem was with the transmission mount. I didn't mention that I had modified the original crossmember to fit a 200r4 tranny in. That left the tranny mount sitting very low. I raised the mount by 2.5" and I gained over an inch of clearance at the headers.

Passenger side now has 3" of clearance where before it was barely 2". Still wish I had more but its enough not to scrape going in and out of my driveway.

[Fred Ficarra]

Sweet. Now come fix mine.
Have you driven at highway speed yet? Notice any vibration/harmonics changes? Raising the tail-shaft has little effect on driveshaft angle, just curious.

[magisnyc]

Havent driven on the road yet. The spacer I used was just temporary to see if it would help, which it did. Now I have to put in something more permanent.

TJS69 also pointed out to me that i need to check the driveshaft angle so I will make sure to do so.

Thanks.

[PA Camaro Guy]

Btw... run your #1 plug wire to connect to the plug from the side where your temp sender is... looks like a good chance you'll melt it.

[magisnyc]

Originally Posted by PA Camaro Guy

Btw... run your #1 plug wire to connect to the plug from the side where your temp sender is... looks like a good chance you'll melt it.

Actually there is enough clearance at the #1 routed that way. That burn mark on the header was from when I had my timing light hooked up.

Appreciate the warning though. Thanks.

[fast frank]

The engine stands on your car are z28 stands, they are 5\8 in lower than standard small block stands. I just installed the lower stand on my blower motor, to lower my engine so I could use a bigger air cleaner under my hood.