[67 4 me]

We'll I finally pulled the trigger on a TKO 600 after beating around the bush for the last year. The only thing left is to purchase a new flywheel and clutch.I have spent hours researching forums for good and bad press as well as called all three of the manufacturers that I am concidering. Here is a list of the brands and part numbers I have narrowed it down to, which ever brand I choose I will be purchasing the flywheel from the same MFG. If any of you have expierience with these part numbers please chime in. My goal is to find something better than stock without compromising drivability (no heavy pedal, chattering etc.) my motor puts 450 hp 475ftlb torque. otherwise I may just put the three names in a hat and draw one out. Thanks again, Randy


Ram 8873HDX Performance clutch kit

Hays 85-102 Street clutch kit

McLeod 75125 Street Pro kit

[bcm66]

You did not consider a Centerforce dual friction clutch?

[67 4 me]

Yes I did, but I couldn't get past the centrifugal weight system. I'm old fashioned and I'm looking for the standard disk/pressureplate set-up.

[Eric Kammerer]

I don't think any of the three are an optimum choice. Where did you get your TKO, and was there a reason you chose not to get a complete kit? What are you doing for a crossmember?

Looking at the choices above in order, I saw:

Ram info HDX Performance Clutch sets
GREAT DRIVEABILITY AND PERFORMANCE TO 450 HORSEPOWER

Might be okay. Lots of feedback online by googling, like this http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...clutch.781293/

I think if you go Ram, IMO the Powergrip may be a better choice

Powergrip Performance Clutch sets
MUSCLE CAR PERFORMANCE TO 550 HORSEPOWER

As power levels move up to and beyond 500 horsepower. RAM POWERGRIP meets the challenge with a combination of organic and metallic disc friction surfaces that effectively increase the clutch capacity to the 550 horsepower level. The 8-spring hub is equipped with RAM POLYCOIL damper springs encapsulated in polyurethane. This spring can handle three times the shock load of just the coil spring, and is standard in all RAM competition discs. The RAM Competition pressure plate in this kit provides 30% more clamp pressure than stock, and meets SFI specifications. At this high level of performance RAM POWERGRIP provides surprisingly good driving characteristics with smooth, comfortable driver control. Sets include pressure plate, disc, release bearing, and alignment tool unless otherwise noted.



The McLeod part number (note 350 HP) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-75125

I think if you went McLeod, you'd want a Super Street Pro ( http://www.mcleodracing.com/products...Street+Pro.mcl )

When I installed my TKO, CC5S (now Hurst Driveline Conversions, HDC) recommended a McLeod Dual Performance diaphragm style clutch kit, and it has been the best clutch in any vehicle I have ever driven. No more pedal effort than the hydraulic unit in an 85 S-10 I used to have, and with street tires and a mild BBC (right around the same ft-lb as your SBC) it clamps plenty hard, no chatter or slip (was broken in correctly). I cannot find anything in the McLeod catalog now that looks anything like my clutch. HDC now includes Luk clutches in their TKO kits, but I don't know which model/style. Likewise, Keisler does not list the manufacturer of the clutches in their kits.

When I googled the Hays part number, I could not find any info on HP/torque capacity, but I see that it is sold at Advance and/or Autozone, Sears, etc. Not sure what that says about the performance level of that product...

You say you spoke to each company; did each tell you these particular parts numbers are up to the levels you need? I mean, when I see the description for the Street Pro with 350 HP, that would make me a little concerned. Some subscribe to the theory that it is better to go with a less strong clutch in order to have it fail before other driveline components like R&P, diff, axles, trans, etc. With street tread radials (no drag style radials), I personally want a nice strong clutch; my tires will break traction long before anything else breaks (knocking wood right now), because with all that torque on tap I don't need to do 4000 + RPM clutch dumps.

So again, either some of the published info is wrong, you talked to a sales or tech guy that doesn't know their products at some of the companies, or you do want the clutch to be the weakest link by far.

[bigarmzz]

you'll love your tko, i bought mine this summer and i really like it, i chose the optional blackjack shifter to align up perfect with my center console

[jcfcamaro]

I have a ram in mine ,and like it . 350 300+hp . Ps not sure on part # .It's on a m20 trans

[67 4 me]

Eric actually I did purchase the complete deluxe kit plus a new bellhousing from Hurst Driveline with a blackjack offset shifter (great people by the way), I just opted to go with a clutch from one of the performance manufacturers rather than the Luk clutch that was offered. A local friend had a bad expierience with a Centerforce so that is my reasoning for going with the standard disc and pressure plate. At this time I'm leaning towards one of the Ram clutchs, hopefully I don't take as long to make a decision as I did on the transmission. Thanks for your imput I appreciate it.

[SixtyAte]

Randy...

You will love your TKO and the install is easy but can have a snag here and there. If you have problems with the crossmember you need to get a XFactor unit. It will save you weeks of frustration trying to get a unit that bolts up to the factory mounting holes and doesn't hit your floor or headers. See my link below...

Kev
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...hlight=install

[67 4 me]

Thanks kevin, I had already bookmarked this cross member but for the good looks. Nice to know that I have an option if I run into the same situation. I'm feeling confident with Husrst driveline, one thing Jim suggested to me prior to the install was to change out the old subframe bushings to make as much room as possible, not sure if this was your issue or not. Can't wait to get this thing in!

[SixtyAte]

Randy,

My sub-frame bushing were not the problem. I replaced them in 2005 and had only driven 4 ,000 miles since I changed them. The problem was that the holes to bolt up the cross-member provided to me would not line up. If the cross-member was bolted in place to the trans-mount..new holes would have been needed to be drilled on the sub-frame.

Then, the exhaust pipes would need to be heated and bent too ! No way I was going to do what they recommended and I gave them two tries to provide me the correct cross-member. I searched online and found the XFactor website..got it a day and all installed in no time.

FYI...you will need loosen the sub-frame bushing bolts and use a long pry bar and a wood wedge to get the old cross-member out and new one in. A bit of PB Blaster or WD 40 used a few days before you try to loosen the bolts will help. Have fun and enjoy your TKO.

Kev

[67 4 me]

Thanks again, I just recently replaced my bushings so all new hardware. Nice to know I have a plan B if needed.

[zdld17]

I have run the single CFII disc and plate for over 10 years. Changing only the disc when anything is appart as its too hard to do this again , flat on my back.. T/O bearings as well.
I have had no heat spots on my plate.

If you haven't already, I would advise you to get a good dial in on the crank center line. TKO does not tolerate any run out above .005".

[67 4 me]

Thanks Don, I had several conversations with Jim @ Hurstdriveline concerning the.005 dial in. I'm hoping that starting with a new (not align-bored) block and new bellhousing I won't be far off. I've already purchased some adjustable dowel pins just in case. I know from previous expierience that doing a trans/clutch install on your back sucks. I have a friend in the construction trade, and he got me some LARGE blocks of wood beams which will be placed under all 4 wheels yielding me about 16-18 inches of clearance.

[zdld17]

Originally Posted by 67 4 me

Thanks Don, I had several conversations with Jim @ Hurstdriveline concerning the.005 dial in. I'm hoping that starting with a new (not align-bored) block and new bellhousing I won't be far off. I've already purchased some adjustable dowel pins just in case. I know from previous expierience that doing a trans/clutch install on your back sucks. I have a friend in the construction trade, and he got me some LARGE blocks of wood beams which will be placed under all 4 wheels yielding me about 16-18 inches of clearance.

I tried to dial in a tko with my old two piece Lakewood, no such luck, I was .045 out. I used the 621 repro with no other change, I was within the .005. Be sure not to use the so called HD fork. The GM 632 works very well.