[Garfields Maro]

Oh no, another GARTH....

Any luck on the window crank Chick ? Not sure, but thinking if you want to save the knob , probably need to carefully clamp the knob and drill the rivet out ...?

[ZLP955]

Chick,
I've been wanting to read this thread for ages, and finally caught up - yes, all 38 pages.....
Your detail work is a credit to you.
Oh, and loved that Yenko Nova story - I actually read it first in MCR, but nice to see the whole thing on novas.net
Cheers, Tim

[68camaroz28]

Originally Posted by Garfields Maro

Oh no, another GARTH....

Any luck on the window crank Chick ? Not sure, but thinking if you want to save the knob , probably need to carefully clamp the knob and drill the rivet out ...?

Good one on the "Oh no, another Garth" Garth but that Garth is a family member.

That rivet is somewhat strange in design but I'm no rivet expert by any means. Lonny gave me a handle so I could experiment and on that one I drilled, and used the dremel but the drill took out too much parent material. On my handles I ended up using a drill to just start a hole (bevel center area slightly out) and then carefully using the dremel to remove the rivet material and expose the washer underneath. Then I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the washer and pull up to assist with breaking the remaining rivet material. Will look at using a type of drive rivet when re-assembled. Did observe one used handle where someone tapped and screwed the piece back on.
Remember the before pic?


And after removing a Rivet from one of our original handles! Note the two washers that were under al four handles.

[68camaroz28]

Originally Posted by ZLP955

Chick,
I've been wanting to read this thread for ages, and finally caught up - yes, all 38 pages.....
Your detail work is a credit to you.
Oh, and loved that Yenko Nova story - I actually read it first in MCR, but nice to see the whole thing on novas.net
Cheers, Tim

Hi Tim and thanks for the kind words so 'good on ya' How long did it take you to read all 38? And yes, had a lot of fun with that Yenko pick up.

[68camaroz28]

Originally Posted by Gdehoff

Here's a link for valve stems. 1 1/4" long .453 hole.

http://patchboy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...tegory_Code=VS

We can find them locally Garth so that is good news.

I knew nothing of valve stems but it seems the numbers are standard sizes and there is a TR-414, 415, 416, etc....
I have three rally wheels dated late 67 and 68 (two DF wheels & one 15X7 vette) have what seems to be the original
valve stems. All are the same size and have 'TR-413' valve stems made by Dill.
One example on a late 67 dated service replacement, never used.

[ZLP955]

Originally Posted by 68camaroz28

How long did it take you to read all 38?

Far too long to admit on an open forum
I'm a slow reader - have to keep going back to re-read stuff these days. But pictures are great!
Although my car is a '69, I've picked up a lot of great tips from your build, so thanks

[Garfields Maro]

Originally Posted by ZLP955

Far too long to admit on an open forum
I'm a slow reader - have to keep going back to re-read stuff these days. But pictures are great!
Although my car is a '69, I've picked up a lot of great tips from your build, so thanks

....x2

Just wait until you want to review something in this thread...that took place a year or so ago..... Certainly need an index or table of contents, but not sure how/where it could be added ?

I'm gettin' a bit anxious as the Mighty Mouse is about to be reunited with the subframe.....

[68camaroz28]

Thanks Garth and Tim

Sent the front speaker out to be re-coned but interesting how it was located to the speaker grille. Notice how offset or cocked it was in comparison to the grille!



Noticed on the CRG there was a discussion on the cross-member bolts which I had discussed some time ago but had the hardware mixed and was incorrect. Guess I had bagged it wrong a long time ago. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=4966.0;all
Here is a pic of the orig. flanged bolt vs. the AMK TR replacement which is not correct in configuration.
Orig. flanged 'A' bolt to left & AMK 'TR' non-flanged bolt to right

[68camaroz28]

I had found larger diameter shock retainers and was sure they came out of our car but the size baffled me as it seems or thought the correct diameter was 1 3/8". I had saved a picture someone had posted showing an original shock cap and was looking at it a few days ago. Bingo, the shock retainer sure seems to be the same diameter as what I had. Here is a side by side comparison utilizing the saved picture. There is spatter paint on the retainer but that was due to a previous owner spraying inside the trunk area.

[Garfields Maro]

Well, your speaker is in much better shape than mine. Forget exactly how it's mounted, but probably the installer didn't take time to square it up...probably hard to tell without crawling under the dash ?

Fortunately, most all my original bolts/fastener were still intact and servicable. Never have dealt with AMK, but always have heard top reviews from folks. They sure missed it on the crossmember bolts, eh! Didn't do their homework (research)....

Originally Posted by Garfields Maro

I'm gettin' a bit anxious as the Mighty Mouse is about to be reunited with the subframe.....

So, do I need to take it easy on the popcorn....make it last for a while yet ? What's the progress report ? Is subframe under the car already or are you gonna install the frame and engine as an assembly ?

Inquiring minds want to know, ya know....

[68camaroz28]

Originally Posted by Garfields Maro

What's the progress report ? Is sub-frame under the car already or are you gonna install the frame and engine as an assembly ?

Well it has been slower than I anticipated but its mainly due to other commitments and also checking a lot of things out before completion. Now for some updates Garth for those inquiring minds.
The engine and trans will be placed in the sub-frame prior to installing the sub-frame back in the car. Lonny (East Coast Muscle Cars) has this home-made built cart for putting sub-frames back under the car and it works slick as heck. Here is a picture of it with a cool motor/sub-frame going back in a customers pro-touring Camaro.


Then there's the engine detail stuff like forgetting the battery cable clips that are attached to the oil pan. They would have been on the engine and our originals (only found one) was bent up pretty good so two new ones and they will be painted and I will install.


I do not beat up on our suppliers as they are most important but some of the stuff being sold just makes me shake my head. Here is an example of the distributor vacuum advance lines, etc.. Note the small piece that goes from the carb to the metal line. It's just a piece of rubber line that goes from the distributor to the metal line and it's NOT correct.
The kit!


The original piece to the top left. It has no stripe, and has a different O.D. & I.D.


Original to the left-


Notice the original ribbing but it's only on 1/2 of the circumference.


Then there's the by-pass hose clamps being sold (67-68-69) that are not correct for a 68 as 68's had tower clamps. These are correct for a 67.


There were two different headed bolts used for the intake, one hex and one shouldered. I had three!!!


One each for the lift brackets (that's two) and found the impression on the alternator bracket (one painted orange) matched the shouldered bolt so that is where the 3rd was.

[68camaroz28]

Not quite done but the engine is starting to look more complete. Here is where it's at today but still more to do like changing spark plugs & oil filter to originals, adding PCV hose and valve, etc.. Note the fuel pump plate is natural.

[Garfields Maro]

ooh...oh yes, I feel better now... Thanks Chick ! Engine does look sweet and sounded SWEET, I'm sure ! Got them "O" stamped valve covers too ? Subfame/engine dolly looks to be an ingenious contraption.

Quality work and all the details that go along with it, takes a lotta time.......You guys are doing an outstanding job !

Thanks again....

[ZLP955]

Great attention to detail

[68camaroz28]

I was reading a thread on the CRG about the door side mirror and how to remove the glass so had to try it. Soaked the mirror for over a week in Mineral Spirits and yesterday the black looking stuff that held it on four post finally loosened up but I still had to use one small suction cup to help it along. The suction cup was one of those small ones used on things like hanging something on the shower glass or the small sign on the side glass of your automobile proclaiming "baby on board!" You get the idea. What surprised me to some degree was there is a mirror finish on the back side as well and the date code is also visible but back-wards. Here you can see the 4 gobs of adhesive they used which attached the mirror to the 4 posts in the mirror frame.



The backside which shows the mirror finish and back-wards date code of Oct.67