[JR67RS]

Cars going in Wednesday for cage and mini tub. Any do's and don'ts I should know about. Any pics of your street strip cage would be appreciated. Thanks

[XLexusTech]

Dont allow them to position the cage without you there with the seat and petals mounted...
When they cut the frame reinforce it with plating...
Do make sure the outer whelhouses are good otherwise your doing work twice...
Do (have them weld a nice mount to the rear bar for the trunk hinge mount) so much neater then to the tub..
where is it being done?

[JR67RS]

Dmcracing.com

[.gearhead.]

I have a couple threads for my cage and mini tub here. A few thoughts...

When you say cage, I assume you mean at least a 10 point. If the shop will be running the cross bar in front, I'd suggest opting for the bar through the inside of the dash. Gives you more room and a cleaner install.

If you plan to keep the car "stock suspension" (factory mounting locations) for a class or other reasons be sure you specify that with the shop beforehand. You may need to move your shock mounts inward, depending on how much tire you want. If you're not concerned about retaining stock suspension, no worries.

I assume you're providing the shop the wheels and tires you plan to run, to build around them. If not, you should do that.

Depending on the wheel/tire combo you plan to run, the shop may need to end up moving the springs inward. If that's needed, your OEM fuel tank will probably need to be narrowed, or a fuel cell. I went with a narrowed OEM style tank. Either way, just more money.

BTW, I grew up with the head of motorsports at DMC racing (Mark). He might have left recently, but if he's still there tell him Jimmy from his hometown said hey.

Good luck and post up some pics when you're done.

[Everett#2390]

Beg, borrow, or steal a NHRA Rulebook and follow the directions given by the book.
The rulebook can be an older one, the same instructions/rules given for a rollbar.
Have the car loaded and setting on the ground/floor with full weight, if possible.
If not, have the frame/car sitting level at all four points.

The main hoop will have a horizontal bar behind the seat and sidebars going from the main hoop to the front of the doors. The junction of the horizontal bar and sidebars on the main hoop should be at the same position for better support, less leverage from each to the other in case of, God forbid, a rollover.

Having the seat sitting in your normal operating position will determine how the rollbar will be built after the main hoop goes in, as to the rear horizontal bar and sidebars placement. Wear a helmut for main hoop height.

Gusseting the corners is not a bad idea.
DOM mild steel tubing is nice, min wall thickness is 0.118"
4130 Chrome moly tubing is better, has a min wall thickness of 0.083"
Rulebook gives a chart as to OD and WT of tubing, Section 16.
Six inch by six inch by 0.125" thick steel plate shall be welded to the frame or frame structure for the rollbar attachment places.
The rear bars can go throught the rear deck so the rear seat can be mounted for a complete interior.

Remember, the rollbar has to work ONCE. It is sacrificial, you are not.

[JR67RS]

Originally Posted by .gearhead.

I have a couple threads for my cage and mini tub here. A few thoughts...

When you say cage, I assume you mean at least a 10 point. If the shop will be running the cross bar in front, I'd suggest opting for the bar through the inside of the dash. Gives you more room and a cleaner install.

If you plan to keep the car "stock suspension" (factory mounting locations) for a class or other reasons be sure you specify that with the shop beforehand. You may need to move your shock mounts inward, depending on how much tire you want. If you're not concerned about retaining stock suspension, no worries.

I assume you're providing the shop the wheels and tires you plan to run, to build around them. If not, you should do that.

Depending on the wheel/tire combo you plan to run, the shop may need to end up moving the springs inward. If that's needed, your OEM fuel tank will probably need to be narrowed, or a fuel cell. I went with a narrowed OEM style tank. Either way, just more money.

BTW, I grew up with the head of motorsports at DMC racing (Mark). He might have left recently, but if he's still there tell him Jimmy from his hometown said hey.

Good luck and post up some pics when you're done.

Yes Jim stock suspension, caltracs, leafs in etc. also a 10" rim. I may have to do the tubs and suspension first do to funds. This would buy me some time to really think about the cage. I have not honestly seen one as neat and clean as yours and I don't think they are done locally the way yours is. With that said I'm thinking twice .

[JR67RS]

Originally Posted by Everett#2390

Beg, borrow, or steal a NHRA Rulebook and follow the directions given by the book.
The rulebook can be an older one, the same instructions/rules given for a rollbar.
Have the car loaded and setting on the ground/floor with full weight, if possible.
If not, have the frame/car sitting level at all four points.

The main hoop will have a horizontal bar behind the seat and sidebars going from the main hoop to the front of the doors. The junction of the horizontal bar and sidebars on the main hoop should be at the same position for better support, less leverage from each to the other in case of, God forbid, a rollover.

Having the seat sitting in your normal operating position will determine how the rollbar will be built after the main hoop goes in, as to the rear horizontal bar and sidebars placement. Wear a helmut for main hoop height.

Gusseting the corners is not a bad idea.
DOM mild steel tubing is nice, min wall thickness is 0.118"
4130 Chrome moly tubing is better, has a min wall thickness of 0.083"
Rulebook gives a chart as to OD and WT of tubing, Section 16.
Six inch by six inch by 0.125" thick steel plate shall be welded to the frame or frame structure for the rollbar attachment places.
The rear bars can go throught the rear deck so the rear seat can be mounted for a complete interior.

Remember, the rollbar has to work ONCE. It is sacrificial, you are not.

Thank you

[Fred Ficarra]

John, you said 10" rim's? I run 10" rims with stock everything. All I needed was a 1/4" wheel spacer with 12.50 M/T Streets. Maybe a roll bar (5 point) is all you need. How fast are you going to be going?

[JR67RS]

Fred I think a 1/4'' spacer may cause my sidewall to rub quarter lips? As far as times, only going from what I here with the same set up. Mid- low 10's. Total speculation. I'm green and jumping on the track a little late here.

[Eleanor's Nemesis]

Originally Posted by JR67RS

Fred I think a 1/4'' spacer may cause my sidewall to rub quarter lips? As far as times, only going from what I here with the same set up. Mid- low 10's. Total speculation. I'm green and jumping on the track a little late here.

That will depend on the backspacing of the wheels. I would buy the wheels with just a little extra backspacing and then fine tune it with the wheel spacers as they come in many different sizes. I wouldn't recommend 'stacking' them though.

I've got 8 inch wheels with Hoosier Quick Time Pro's 28.5x11.5x15....I need to step up to ten inch wheels but it works for now...I've got a 1/2 billet spacer on the driver side as the sidewall rubbed just a tiny bit when hitting bumps on the return road.

[JR67RS]

Just how much more grab would a 10" rim with a larger foot print give ya. Heck I'm running a 9 "now with a mt 275

[camaromatt]

Have them lean the main hoop back so its inline with the window-quarter window seam, much less noticeable from the side.

[JR67RS]

Originally Posted by camaromatt

Have them lean the main hoop back so its inline with the window-quarter window seam, much less noticeable from the side.

Yes definitely.

[Eleanor's Nemesis]

Originally Posted by JR67RS

Just how much more grab would a 10" rim with a larger foot print give ya. Heck I'm running a 9 "now with a mt 275

The wider wheel with the same size tire will put more of the shoulder area on the pavement. Lots of guys with limited width tires have started going to slightly wider wheels for better traction.

[JR67RS]

Ok so more foot print more strain. When is it to much foot print. Let's say a 388 dynoed at 592 at the crank with 4/10 gears