[Burns67ss]

No not points

[Steiner]

Try this.....get a screwdriver and see how much of the shaft you need to short across the solenoid post and battery post. Then run some electrical tape down the shaft to cover the rest of the shaft to make it safer. Next time you get it hot and it won't turn over good, grab your screwdriver and short across the solenoid lug and battery lug to see if it'll turn over. You can also check with the parts store to see if they have a remote starter button kit with clip on leads to do the same thing. You do not have to have the key on but MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL.

If that works you can either find out what the issue is with your solenoid feed or just get a $5 relay and use your solenoid feed to engage it and send straight battery power to the solenoid....that is if your solenoid feed is good for at least 8-9V when it's hot.

[arocars]

I had a very similar problem with my 69 small block. It would get hot and not start until it cooled. Someone loaned me a race starter and it cured the problem. Unfortunately, it was only a loan. I then tried a new stock starter, old problem returned. I then tried a mini-starter from DB Electrical, old problem still there. I then purchased an expensive race starter just like the one my friend loaned me. The problem went away and did not come back. The starter I bought came from CSR, p/n CSI 100P. It was $300 and worth every penny.

[67sprtcp]

Same problem here. someone spliced the purple wire to starter under hood . would that cause problems? New powermaster starter also. New ignition switch. Good battery and cables.

[TModel66]

Originally Posted by 67sprtcp

Same problem here. someone spliced the purple wire to starter under hood . would that cause problems? New powermaster starter also. New ignition switch. Good battery and cables.

A splice shouldn't affect it. Go to NAPA auto parts or where ever and get a High Torque starter. It will look like your regular starter but will have a longer armature. This will solve your problems.

[Steptoe]

Go to NAPA auto parts or where ever and get a High Torque starter.

'
I have wondered about this....So been doing a lot of digging, checking parts etc over the last few months...
When one checks out "Cranking Motors" in the AC Delco Electical Service Manual... they list pages of starters, and for our appliction a good couple pages... these are divided into 3 groups Cranking Motor Heavy duty and light aircraft.
Taking just our application... the difference in max and min cranking speeds, current draws os substantual....then there are the bulltins covering alsorts of things like testing with growlers to modification of armitures by undercutting insulation, and changes modifications in solenoid and brush assemblies....
Now I wonder just how many of feild, armitures and solenoids have been miss matched in rebuilt starters over the yrs...
I do know about armitures not under cut, and not being tested with growler, but thru these miss matches in along with tendency of many to over avance intials rather than using VAs to establish idle advance.
No bloody wonder we have so much trouble with starters...
It is not the GM starter at fault...it seems the poor aftermarket rebuilding selection of mismatched parts, and incorrect speced starters being sold on the selves for the wrong applications...

Because of this total aftermarket screw up, dont even bother replacing with a screwed around GM starter...
Do as Dennis suggests, get a solid feild type starter or a geared unit...with steel, not plastic gears in it.

[67sprtcp]

Arent powermaster starters good? Mine is supposed to be a high torque starter but looks like original. I dont have a heat sheild , would that have hurt the new starter?

[bigbuckcity]

When reading post's such as this one the first comment reads No no points and until reading members comments there is no way knowing what the article is about. This happens often, I am guessing this has been posted before!! Am I right or wrong on this. As you can read the topic: Starting issue on my 69. Just trying to clarify why Burns67ss, did not state his situation at the beginning of the Post!!!! Thanks, interested to find out why............... Also not mentioned but would assume first time owner's of a 69 Camaro know, that the clutch, if it has a clutch has to be engaged before the starter will engage, I did not know this when I purchased my 69 Camaro Convertible with a 4 speed......

[Sauron67MM]

Originally Posted by bigbuckcity

When reading post's such as this one the first comment reads No no points and until reading members comments there is no way knowing what the article is about.

That's because you started reading the thread on page 2. It helps if you start on page 1.

[67sc]

The starter doesn't turn and you hear a click?
You've replaced the starter and solenoid and the problem hasn't changed?
Remember there are two circuits; the solenoid (that has two parts), and the starter motor.

The solenoid engages the starter drive (gear) and switches the starter motor on/off.

Since the solenoid isn't doing both its jobs, the circuit before it is to blame. You replaced the starter and solenoid, so they are unlikely culprits.

Try jumping from the battery to the solenoid S terminal.

[67sprtcp]

I can put my battery charger on boost as you would for a dead battery and it starts evrytime. Battery tests ok. Can take the the charger off , turn car off and will start on its on over and over. WTH?

[withac]

Wow, I have the exact same issue, here is my thread
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212630
I’ve got the engine harness and a line on a headlamp harness and underdash harness. I also plan on a tune up of the HEI distributor. When taking the old engine harness out I discovered the wires coming from the dist. Module that plug back in to the dist. to send the power to the module had some of the insulation cracked as well as I think a few wires maybe even broken. I’m hoping that when all the wires are replaced (under my hood was a mess of wire nuts and short sections of wire spliced together) and the connections getting power to the dist as well as the dist itself are in better shape that things will be better. Don’t remember how much detail I put in my post but when mine was messing up and I turned the key, nothing, absolute zero. Sometimes when it cooled down it would start but other times you needed to jump it and usually then it would start.
Of course, like I mentioned in my thread, I won’t know until April or May if the new starter fixed it, it’s garaged and soon the roads will be snow packed until spring. Good luck.

[blue69camaro]

Here's another idea...mine would not start it got hot also but it was not all the time. Replaced solinoid,starter, checked ignition switch...switched to a high torque mini starter which helped a little. Finally traced the voltage from battery to the starter and found the neutral saftey switch had a very small voltage drop and another connection also had a very small drop. These both added up to enough of a drop when the car was hot that it would not ingage the solinoid because of the higher resistance. I took the neutral saftey switch apart and the dielectric grease was hard and the contact points had a glaze on them. Cleaned it up sanded the contacts and put new dielectric grease in it and have had no issues for a year. Believe me I was at wits end before I traced this down...Just check for a small ohm drop across ALL connections and switchs etc .
Any drop in ohms translates to a larger voltage drop. Mine was down to 9-10 volts going to the starter....BAD