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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Fixing dent in glove box door for an amateur | ||
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| Body Shop Paint & Body Forum |
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#1
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What's the easiest way to fix a dent in my glove box door and have it look good after being painted? I've got about a 1" ding in my glove box door. It's not very deep, but very noticeable.
I'm going to be repainted my dash anyway and wanted to get this fixed beforehand. Is this something you can just sand down the paint, apply some filler to, sand, prime and paint, or is it going to show after being painted?
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Jason 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS - 1968 Camaro - 2000 Ford Exploder |
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#2
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If done right you should not notice. I would go with sand, fill, primer, and shoot.
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#3
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Sand, fill, prime and shoot.
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#4
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As long as we're talking about body work, what type of filler is recommended? And what grit(s) sandpaper should I use in order to get this and the dash to look good when painting using an Aerosol can of SEM trim black? What type of primer should be used?
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Jason 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS - 1968 Camaro - 2000 Ford Exploder |
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#5
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Any standard filler should be fine- I've been using Evercoat, and it goes on smooth and sands well. When I did my firewall with SEM Trim Black, I did the filler work, primed it with two coats of epoxy, scuffed that to 180 grit, and then shot the SEM. You may want to go finer, like 320, and epoxy is probably overkill, but a good primer sealer is a must.
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#6
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What about taking it to Paintless Dent Repair? Maybe they'll knock it out for you for nothing seeing as how it's so small.
http://www.dentwizard.com/Locator.aspx?state=NJ
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#7
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Quote:
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Jason 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS - 1968 Camaro - 2000 Ford Exploder |
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#8
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Glove box door is no different than any other body panel as far as filling a dent/ding. If you have never done it before the chances of it coming out "unoticable" is probably pretty slim. I would much rather have a small hole drilled behind it (where you will never see it) rather than attempt a repair and have it come out bad. How deep is the "ding" if it's an inch diameter it is a dent not a ding in my book.
To do it 100% corrct I would strip the door to bare metal, put a couple coats of epoxy on it, do your body work (fill work), them prime with your coice of primer, sand to remove all scratches, etc... then paint. If you are doing a rattle can restore on the dash then depending on how deep the ding is you may be able to get away with a scuff and some glazing putty. Hard to say without knowing exactly what the damage looks like and what your plans are.
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Royce (NO XQSSS) Bradley www.facebook.com/driveyourjunk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSLsGgDjFXE (brief sound/video clip, 3 1/2" exhaust through Borla Sportsman mufflers) |
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#9
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I didn't think about not being able to get behind it....
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#10
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Yeah those paintless dent remover guys can only do their magic if they have something to pry against. Had a dent in the fender of the '67 and I raised the hood to show the guy all the access between the inner fender and fender. He said that wouldn't work then proceeded to drill a hole in the inner fender to place his tool from the tire side to apply leverage (with my permission of course).
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Robert '69 355ci 10:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Comp Mag 280H, Performer RPM, 700r4 (2000 stall), 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB Hotchkis '67 369ci 10.3:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Voodoo 276/284, Performer RPM, Holley 650DP ...4spd 3.73 Moser 12 bolt '77 Dodge Powerwagon 340ci X-head 727 NP203 Dana 44 / Mopar 9.25 TC member #18 |
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#11
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I would suggest, sand it down with 150 grit, apply skim coat of filler, sand down to as level as you can,finishing off with approx. 200grit, hit it with a sandable filler primer, wet sand it with 600 until it is smooth as glass, make sure all fine scratches are gone, reprime & then paint using SEM satin or marque black...hope this helps
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#12
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There's a post in the archives where someone painted their glove box door that got me motivated to do it. I used rustoleum rattle can primer and paint (semi gloss black) bought from Home Depot as the guy did in that post. No dents but some deep scratches. I figured if I sanded them well enough I wouldn't need filler. I was wrong. I started with 80 and ended with 800 wet and you can still see remnants of the scratches, so use filler. Rattle can not necessarily the best but you can only see lines under certain light conditions and you have to really be looking for it. No pics of finished door but a few in process...
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1967 350, Hurst TKO 600 5 speed, 12 bolt 3:55 posi, RS added http://photobucket.com/1967_Camaro_Carl Gone but Not Forgotten: 1970, born with a 6cyl, 350sbc transplanted in http://photobucket.com/Carls1970Camaro Last edited by 67Carl; Nov 20th, 12 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Tried to rotate image, can't figure it out. Door is hanging by string from rafters... |
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#13
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why not save yourself all that darn work? and try to one on e-bay that looks good. seem alot for sale there.
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#14
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I tried the same thing on mine Carl. I ended up stripping it down to metal.
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#15
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the more i think about this, the more likely I am to just spend the $75 or whatever and get a brand new one.
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Jason 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS - 1968 Camaro - 2000 Ford Exploder |
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