[Sauron67MM]

Originally Posted by Redec

Thanks for the advice Scott. Sorry I made you repeat yourself. I posted late last night and just now had time to reread some of the previous post. For future note, do you have a certain brand of panel glue you use?

No worries. SEM 39747. Check out their site. There are others, you don't have to use SEM. Your jobber may want to bang you on the gun if you don't deal with them often.

[kc1969]

I should share my subframe pics with you. I spent about 150 hours on it, and I really like the results. If I dont post them soon, remind me before you commit to yours. I made my stock frame smooth like it was one piece.

kc

[Redec]

Originally Posted by kc1969

I should share my subframe pics with you. I spent about 150 hours on it, and I really like the results. If I dont post them soon, remind me before you commit to yours. I made my stock frame smooth like it was one piece.

kc

Sounds pretty cool. My frame is pretty solid except the firewall subframe holes. They will need to bet cut out and replaced. I might do the rear ones anyways. They have a little pitting if I remember correctly. It been a while since I saw my subframe lol. It's sitting in storage. When I start on my subframe I will be a happy man. Means I am done with the metal on my shell.

[Redec]

Didn't get my hindge kit today so I just worked on the panels some more. It's getting a lot closer. The trunk lid didn't sit flush on the left side because the gutter needs to be reshaped.

I almost have the gap gone on the filler panel.

My new tail panel is way off. I will probably still use it but I wanted to see how my quarters did with my original tail panel.

I know the gap between the trunk lid and quarters are too wide. What's normal?

Here are some pics.

[Redec]

[Sauron67MM]

The tulip to qrt gap is too wide. Those panels should draw tightly together. An AMD tailpanel will fit very well to those AMD quarters. Look at my thread on AMD tin. Sometimes the LH quarter at the decklid gap is not quite right and needs help. The corners often need mods to maintain gap consistency. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212160

[allanjs]

Cory, Check out post #51 in this thread to help with the quarters to trunk lid
gaps. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...=212160&page=4
Do you have the tulip panel to quarter panels mating edges clamped tight
from the inside of the trunk ? They can be a bitch to get to but required.
I wouldn't weld anything in place until you get the door hinges rebuilt, doors
hung and which tail panel you are going to use. Keep at it you're getting
closer all the time.

Edit. Apparently Scott and I were typing at the same time.

[Sauron67MM]

Originally Posted by allanjs

Edit. Apparently Scott and I were typing at the same time.

CRG's site has a function that informs you if someone posted before you submit your reply, thus giving a chance to edit.

[Redec]

Nice link, thanks guys. Since I didn't get the parts I needed for the doors I figured I would do what I could without butchering any panels. At least until I get my hinges rebuilt.

These are Goodmark quarters. My other tail panel should be Goodmark too.

I always thought it was called the filler panel. I thought the tulips was the outer cowls. I was a bit confused until I goggled it and saw you explain it in another post lol.

I didn't get the tulip to quarter clamped yet. I had to reconstruct both sides of that tulip/filler panel and that is my next step. Ran out of energy and daylight. I haven't welded anything just trying to get everything to fit and take in what needs to be done.

[Sauron67MM]

My mistake about yours being AMD.

[Redec]

Bottom hinges are a PITA to get off. I got both top hinges off and apart. Started on the lower and have came to the conclusion that I will need a huge Philips head impact attachment to get them off. Guess I'll head to HD or Lowes tomorrow. I sprayed the screws down with wd-40. Maybe that will help a little.

I thought this was going to be easy

I had to go to O'Reilly's to get the bigger help(Dorman) pins too. Without smashing the outer hinge together the pins on the kit are completely unusable. They only had 2 boxes. I hope the bottom hinges will use the short pin the sent in the kit.

[allanjs]

Cory, A hand impact tool such as this one, work great for that application.

Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set : Amazon.com : Automotive

Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set : Amazon.com : Automotive

[Redec]

Thanks Al. I see HD has a Husky one for $23 and it's a 1/2 drive. Going to get it when the wife gets home.

[Redec]

Only had a couple hours to work on the car today. I was able to remove the bottom hinges and take the main pins and arm pins out. I didn't try to get the roller bushing off. Is there a secret to it? The one in the restore kit it threaded. Are the original ones threaded too? It's just flat on the top.

[allanjs]

Cory, The roller pins were pressed in at the factory.